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With the extra time in-house I started several new projects. The 1st being a large table saw sled. I had one that I thought was large but was wrong. It only allows boards up to 18" wide to be cut which isn't ideal for cabinets and chests. This new sled will allow up to 24.5" and features zero clearance blade inserts which you make for your blades from 1/8" hardboard. Allows up to a 7/8" dado blade assembly.
The primary fence is 54" long and the blade is 12" centered from the right side. There is an additional optional fence extension that adds another 24" if/when needed. Both have T-Track installed for using accurate stop blocks that have a clear cursor to see the attached R to L self adhesive tape measure that is mounted to the fence top. It calls for 3/8" thick phenolic runners but I already had a set of Kreg aluminum adjustable runners and will use these instead.
The optional fence is attached using a keyed slot. I had some 1" thick soft maple left over from another project so used this to glue to the 24" back side slot and the matching 12" long slot on the back of the fence. There are two Bolts w/knurled knobs that screw the extension to the main fence lining them up perfectly including the 2 T-Tracks.
So far the base is cut to size and shaped according to the plan. The bridge is cut and shaped. The fence is cut, shaped, and slots cuts as required. All parts are sanded. I still need to attach runners, fence, and bridge so I can cut the blade slot, then cut the rabbets for the blade inserts.
Due to a mistake I made early on when making the fence I decided to use that mistake to upgrade my drill press table. I cut the botched fence down to 3", cut the T-Track slot all the way across, and drilled the holes to attach the fence to the T-Track on the existing base which runs front to back on left and right sides. Still having some mistake left I cut that down to 1-1/2" drilled two slots so the longer than base front clamping piece could be used on irregular parts. The longer piece with the slots allows it to be used on angle boards. The T bolts that attach the front piece can be tightened to clamp the part. The T track on the fence gives me a much longer range for stop blocks then the previous fence. This needs sanding and clear coat finish, same as the table saw sled.
What I forgot to mention is that the plans for the table saw fence is in the old Shop Notes #130 pages 20-23. There is an old thread I started back some time ago about downloading the old Shop Notes if interested.
The primary fence is 54" long and the blade is 12" centered from the right side. There is an additional optional fence extension that adds another 24" if/when needed. Both have T-Track installed for using accurate stop blocks that have a clear cursor to see the attached R to L self adhesive tape measure that is mounted to the fence top. It calls for 3/8" thick phenolic runners but I already had a set of Kreg aluminum adjustable runners and will use these instead.
The optional fence is attached using a keyed slot. I had some 1" thick soft maple left over from another project so used this to glue to the 24" back side slot and the matching 12" long slot on the back of the fence. There are two Bolts w/knurled knobs that screw the extension to the main fence lining them up perfectly including the 2 T-Tracks.
So far the base is cut to size and shaped according to the plan. The bridge is cut and shaped. The fence is cut, shaped, and slots cuts as required. All parts are sanded. I still need to attach runners, fence, and bridge so I can cut the blade slot, then cut the rabbets for the blade inserts.
Due to a mistake I made early on when making the fence I decided to use that mistake to upgrade my drill press table. I cut the botched fence down to 3", cut the T-Track slot all the way across, and drilled the holes to attach the fence to the T-Track on the existing base which runs front to back on left and right sides. Still having some mistake left I cut that down to 1-1/2" drilled two slots so the longer than base front clamping piece could be used on irregular parts. The longer piece with the slots allows it to be used on angle boards. The T bolts that attach the front piece can be tightened to clamp the part. The T track on the fence gives me a much longer range for stop blocks then the previous fence. This needs sanding and clear coat finish, same as the table saw sled.
What I forgot to mention is that the plans for the table saw fence is in the old Shop Notes #130 pages 20-23. There is an old thread I started back some time ago about downloading the old Shop Notes if interested.
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