Hi Bill and welcome. I'm afraid I'm not familiar with that router. How long does it run at full speed before it shuts down?
Craftsman 2 hp plunge router 27669
I recently bought a Craftsman 27669 plunge router. The problem I am having is that after I plug the router up and go through the settings in the digital display. The router slow starts and go up to full speed ( I am assuming it's running at 25K RPM's) and then shuts it's self off and the display turns red instead of blue. I removed the top cover and checked all of the wire terminals and everything seems to be in order. Any ideas?
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Hi Bill, try pressing the minus(-) setting key while you start the router. It sounds as if the router runs into overspeed.
Ronald, I tried that but it still goes to the max. and shuts off.
Chuck, as soon as it comes up to top speed it shuts itself off. I'm now thinking it is probably in the circuit board. It may be in the trash pretty soon....
Bill I'm tending toward the same conclusion. Anything mechanical should either result in reduced speed or not starting at all. Maybe it's possible to bypass the board and just run it at full speed. And you may be right about it. Used Sears routers weren't worth much before. With Sears shutting down they are worth even less now. By the way, if the first 3 numbers of the Sears model number start with 315 then that router was made by Ryobi. There is a slim chance that might help.
If you can bypass the board, external router speed controls are widely available. I don't know how big your motor is but the 15 amp one from HF is under 20 bucks. It has a 3 way switch marked: "full speed-off-variable". You could even use it to bypass the power switch on your router. All that electronics sounds like a total overkill sales gimick. I have never seen all that digital stuff on any other router, even the most expensive. There are better speed controls, like the heavy duty one from MLCS.(free shipping on anything)Bill I'm tending toward the same conclusion. Anything mechanical should either result in reduced speed or not starting at all. Maybe it's possible to bypass the board and just run it at full speed. And you may be right about it. Used Sears routers weren't worth much before. With Sears shutting down they are worth even less now. By the way, if the first 3 numbers of the Sears model number start with 315 then that router was made by Ryobi. There is a slim chance that might help.
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it looks like this is it. https://www.ereplacementparts.com/adjuster-p-1079877.html cross referenced from here. https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/32027669/0247/0740000.html but, they must be kidding on the price.. it's better to just bypass the one in the router, and use an external one, although you won't have a readout of the speed..
I think it's just the stores shutting down, hopefully, online sales and the sears parts site will keep on going!..Bill I'm tending toward the same conclusion. Anything mechanical should either result in reduced speed or not starting at all. Maybe it's possible to bypass the board and just run it at full speed. And you may be right about it. Used Sears routers weren't worth much before. With Sears shutting down they are worth even less now. By the way, if the first 3 numbers of the Sears model number start with 315 then that router was made by Ryobi. There is a slim chance that might help.
I heard that the parts side of Sears is one of the things keeping them going. It's profitable according to rumor. They would have to mail us parts up here. There are no more stores or agencies. Cost is another issue and not limited to Sears. I bought a Freud big plunge a number of years ago and the armature went in an unacceptably short period of time (out of warranty of course). The cost for a new one was $10 less than what I paid for the router. Any time you have to spend more than about half the value of a tool to repair it you really need to give thought to whether it's worth it. In regard to buying a speed controller and bypassing your board that is a little different as you can use that controller with any universal style motor as long as it doesn't have an integral controller. So it could be used with a single speed drill for example.
The motor is single speed; the on board controller that feeds it, makes it variable. It is just a question of connecting the wires from the motor to the power cord and plugging the router into the outboard speed controller. Basic speed controllers/lamp dimmers are pretty simple devices.I heard that the parts side of Sears is one of the things keeping them going. It's profitable according to rumor. They would have to mail us parts up here. There are no more stores or agencies. Cost is another issue and not limited to Sears. I bought a Freud big plunge a number of years ago and the armature went in an unacceptably short period of time (out of warranty of course). The cost for a new one was $10 less than what I paid for the router. Any time you have to spend more than about half the value of a tool to repair it you really need to give thought to whether it's worth it. In regard to buying a speed controller and bypassing your board that is a little different as you can use that controller with any universal style motor as long as it doesn't have an integral controller. So it could be used with a single speed drill for example.
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I just took a look at the owner's manual. It is a stock brush motor. The control module, item #8, is the fancy controller with the display. The wires going to the brushes are the ones you want to attach to power and an outboard speed controller. Is that router variable speed at the trigger? It might be a little awkward not having power cut off under your finger. If the trigger is just on- off, use it.
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you should be able to wire the brushes in parallel with the controller, possibly giving the readout of the motor speed!. if not, then you have to make a wild guess as to the motor speed..:smile:I just took a look at the owner's manual. It is a stock brush motor. The control module, item #8, is the fancy controller with the display. The wires going to the brushes are the ones you want to attach to power and an outboard speed controller. Is that router variable speed at the trigger? It might be a little awkward not having power cut off under your finger. If the trigger is just on- off, use it.
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In series please, unless you want to let the magic smoke out of the controller or trip a house breaker.. I see where you plug something into a controller you might think it is in parellel but it is in series. The wild ass guess method is good enough for all the other variable speed routers. There are a few guesstimate marks on the dial.you should be able to wire the brushes in parallel with the controller, possibly giving the readout of the motor speed!. if not, then you have to make a wild guess as to the motor speed..
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Speaking for just the states, I think they took the Craftsman brand national instead of it just being a Sears house brand anymore. I bought my Craftsman band saw at a hardware store a couple of years ago, and their website now shows several bigger name stores carrying it, including Lowe’s, but I have yet to see that at my local Lowe’s.
I meant the internal controller in the router, which normally gets full voltage.. of course you would disconnect the wires from that controller going to the motor in that case.. it may work just by leaving the wiring as is, and just running the router on the external controller.. the display may get enough voltage for the readout.. I'm an Electronics Engineer btw..In series please, unless you want to let the magic smoke out of the controller or trip a house breaker.. I see where you plug something into a controller you might think it is in parellel but it is in series. The wild ass guess method is good enough for all the other variable speed routers. There are a few guesstimate marks on the dial.
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Sears did some marketing of Craftsman outside their stores, most notably at Ace Hardware. Sears sold the Craftsman name to Stanley Black & Decker in a rather complex arrangement. The stuff sold inside Sears (for a period of time) will come from where Sears chooses to buy it, just as in the past. All outside sales now come from SB&D. Stanley is buying,importing or manufacturing any Craftsman you now see outside of Sears. That includes what you saw at Lowes. Sears is on the edge of bankruptcy. Stock is at $3 a share. The Craftsman name was sold to raise cash. Many suppliers have cut them off for fear of not getting paid. They are closing Sears and K mart stores by the car load. The shelves are empty. Eddie Lampert, CEO of Sears Holdings is using all kinds of maneuvers to get as much cash, for himself, out of Sears going under as he can manage. They will go belly up before the end of the year. This has been covered in the news for some time. Until they close there will actually be two Craftsman product lines, inside and outside of Sears.Speaking for just the states, I think they took the Craftsman brand national instead of it just being a Sears house brand anymore. I bought my Craftsman band saw at a hardware store a couple of years ago, and their website now shows several bigger name stores carrying it, including Lowe’s, but I have yet to see that at my local Lowe’s.
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