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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can anyone tell me how to seperate the base and motor on this thing? I inherited it from my father who seldom, if ever used it. He was more interested in metal. Naturally, no owners manual and it is discontinued on the Sears site (imagine that :mad:). I have also Googled and Binged with no luck.
I'm kinda resurrecting this thing to use as a second router for dovetails and such. Got a Milescraft turnlock base and bushing kit in this morning and went to work on it. Went to seperate the motor and base to better clean it up when I hit a stop sign.:sad: Don't feel I really need the whole manual as most of the operation is pretty intuitive, maybe a couple of adjustments I don't know about. Depth adjustment is pretty sloppy but I think that's gonna happen because of the design. I think some adjustment on the clamp bar may be in order though.
Thanks
 

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HI John

Some turn out and some slip out BUT why if it's working just let it be :) just blow the ring out real well and put it to work..:)
You don't need the manual it's easy router to use :)

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Can anyone tell me how to seperate the base and motor on this thing? I inherited it from my father who seldom, if ever used it. He was more interested in metal. Naturally, no owners manual and it is discontinued on the Sears site (imagine that :mad:). I have also Googled and Binged with no luck.
I'm kinda resurrecting this thing to use as a second router for dovetails and such. Got a Milescraft turnlock base and bushing kit in this morning and went to work on it. Went to seperate the motor and base to better clean it up when I hit a stop sign.:sad: Don't feel I really need the whole manual as most of the operation is pretty intuitive, maybe a couple of adjustments I don't know about. Depth adjustment is pretty sloppy but I think that's gonna happen because of the design. I think some adjustment on the clamp bar may be in order though.
Thanks
 

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Hi,

I'm not 100% sure about this but, I believe, remove the screw right above that center knob. The motor should either slip or turn out of the base. However, if all you're doing is cleaning it up, do as Bj suggested, just blow it out.
 

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I suggest you do not remove the motor from the base unless a repair is needed. Some versions have ball bearings between the motor and base, and trust me... you do not want to be chasing them and trying to replace them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi,

I'm not 100% sure about this but, I believe, remove the screw right above that center knob. The motor should either slip or turn out of the base. However, if all you're doing is cleaning it up, do as Bj suggested, just blow it out.
Finally got it apart. Set screw buried under some grime just below the craftsman logo on the front of the machine. Really needed to come apart for cleaning. Dad had it sitting on a shelf in his machine/welding/repair shop for years. Layers of machine oil vapors, welding dust and general garden type variety of dirt built up all through it. Took the better part of a day and a half to get it cleaned up and set up but it runs pretty good. Hard part was getting the gray depth indicator ring and the red adjustment ring apart without breaking anything. That part has been discontinued so replacement was not a good option.
Anyway, all's well, almost. Now the Milescraft base I put on is gonna give me an issue using it as a second router for dovetails. Milescraft is 7" and my Hitachi is 5-3/4". That means I will need to reset the jig fence every time I switch back and forth......NOT. will figure something else out. Maybe put a Milescraft on the Hitachi also. I really like the turnlocks. May get a set of the nylon ones to cut the noses down on. I like to make my templates out of hardboard and it is getting thinner and thinner. Last stuff I got from HD said 1/4" on the display, 3/16" on the label and 5/32" on the mic. Instead of 1/4" minus something, its 1/8" plus something.:sad:
 
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