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Craftsman 315.17432 no good upside down on a table?

807 Views 8 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  4DThinker
This is bolted to an old Sears router table, but I cannot get the depth to stay adjusted.
This router has a big plastic rotating ring, and a large thumb screw to lock the motor assembly to keep it from sliding.
The ring can show you the depth of cut, and you pull the router motor assembly away from the head until it is
stopped by the ring at the indicated depth. Then you lock the screw.

But it only seems to work for hand routing.
When upside down under the table, gravity pulls the router down as far as it will go.
The thumb screw does not hold against gravity !

The screw only pulls the jaws of the frame together.
It does not look like there are any sort of pins in the motor assembly that would engage in the
plastic threads used by the ring.
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I've had those routers with the adjustment ring in the past, and even in the normal upright position, the ring often slipped from the desired setting. I can only imagine how frustrating it could be hanging upside down in its unnatural position. Are you in a position to find a better router with a more robust collar for adjustments ?
This is bolted to an old Sears router table, but I cannot get the depth to stay adjusted.
This router has a big plastic rotating ring, and a large thumb screw to lock the motor assembly to keep it from sliding.
The ring can show you the depth of cut, and you pull the router motor assembly away from the head until it is
stopped by the ring at the indicated depth. Then you lock the screw.

But it only seems to work for hand routing.
When upside down under the table, gravity pulls the router down as far as it will go.
The thumb screw does not hold against gravity !

The screw only pulls the jaws of the frame together.
It does not look like there are any sort of pins in the motor assembly that would engage in the
plastic threads used by the ring.
I don't see a feasible solution for that router being used in a table.... wish I did. If you end up buying a different router for the table, look at increasing the horse power a tad.
All I want to do is a simple job, routing the edge of some 2x4s so I have a 1/2" x 5/8" cutout. It will be the vertical frame for a sliding panel. Setting up freehand will be a real PIA, trying to clamp something that will be a fence...
All I want to do is a simple job, routing the edge of some 2x4s so I have a 1/2" x 5/8" cutout. It will be the vertical frame for a sliding panel. Setting up freehand will be a real PIA, trying to clamp something that will be a fence...
Yeah that's not a freehand project. I would put it in the table chucked with the bit to be used and make it work. Assuming the table is a bench model raise the router by propping up the router until you get the height you want. Something along those lines (Clamp, screw, old car scissor jack) to keep the router at the same height for the little bit of time to make the cut. Be safe and good luck.
Well, I need to make sure that I am able to chuck the bit deeply enough. Maybe putting a 2x4 under the motor housing would raise it enough... but I have no way of locking the motor housing, it might bounce & chatter vertically as I work.
I think the effort of setting that up is no less than setting up a fence to work freehand. Its just a straight line.
I use one with quick change bits in a table but I use it with a Jessem lift, works fine.
The first router table I had I made from baltic birch plywood and my Craftsman router. I remember giving up on the thumb screw and replacing it with a hex bolt I could tighten with an open end wrench to hold the router bit height where I needed it.
4D
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