Barry, sounds like your trying to joint with the wood in between the fence and the cutter. The cutter must be behind the fence with the outer edge of the cutter even with the adjustable (outfeed) side of the fence. Feed in a right to left direction, against the rotation of the cutter.

Chuck L.

 

The fence is correct.

The outfeed side of the fence acts the same way that the outfeed table of a jointer works. It is supposed to be aligned with the bit, with the infeed side controlling how much stock you remove with each pass.

To set the fence, put a straightedge against the outfeed side. Adjust the fence so the straightedge touches the bit cutting edge. Lock the fence down.

To use the router table as a jointer, feed the stock from right to left, keeping pressure on the outfeed side of the fence. The same way you would use a jointer.

 

I think Chuck is right, but,

I think Chuck is right, but.
There would be a natural design offset of about that amount if both the infeed and outfeed fences are pushed back to their limits.
The only other possibility is having the two washers on the outfeed side in the wrong place, they should be under the wing-nuts and not (possibly) elsewhere.

See attached diagram of the unit.

Cordially,
Gerry

 

I will check my fence Gerry. The fence came already asembeled, even though the directions shows it needs to be put together. I do not understand the natural design offset part. If I have a piece of wood and say I want to route the bottom edge with a roundover, as the peice is being push, it will hit the outfeed and move away from the cutter because the infeed is around 3/64" back further.
Barry

I think Chuck is right, but.
There would be a natural design offset of about that amount if both the infeed and outfeed fences are pushed back to their limits.
The only other possibility is having the two washers on the outfeed side in the wrong place, they should be under the wing-nuts and not (possibly) elsewhere.

See attached diagram of the unit.

Cordially,
Gerry

 

Fence question

Gerry and Barry, This sounds alot like the post "Flying Wood" where the workpiece was located (improperly) between the bit and the fence. The workpiece should be "closest to the operator, the bit next and the fence farthest away from the operator as Gerry shows in his excellent diagram post #14... Flying Wood.
To set the router table as a"jointer" the infeed or right hand side fence must be offset slightly from the outfeed fence, which is on the left side. To accomplish this, one could space the outfeed fence (left side), away from the main fence, placing thin washers about 1/16th inch, between the back side of the wood fence and the main support fence.
So, when all is said and done, the outfeed side of the table router fence is closest to the operator and, the infeed side is about 1/16th in behind that. This permits 1/16th inch of stock to be removed with each pass.
NEVER locate the workpiece solely between the bit and the fence. This is an invitation to kickback everytime, hence flying wood. This proceedure is only used to rout a dado or other cut on one side of a larger workpiece and is not a thru cut. This is a dado from the blind side. That's my thought on the subject. Bill

 

Bill,
You were right, I did have the workpiece set up wrong. (I went bit, wood, fence). My other problem is the outfeed and infeed does not line up. Gerry posted a diagram and I am going to check to see if the fence is put together wrong. I do know the outfeed can be adjusted out further, but it does not recess all the way back. Unless this is normal, I will return tabe for new one.
Thanks,
Barry

Gerry and Barry, This sounds alot like the post "Flying Wood" where the workpiece was located (improperly) between the bit and the fence. The workpiece should be "closest to the operator, the bit next and the fence farthest away from the operator as Gerry shows in his excellent diagram post #14... Flying Wood.
To set the router table as a"jointer" the infeed or right hand side fence must be offset slightly from the outfeed fence, which is on the left side. To accomplish this, one could space the outfeed fence (left side), away from the main fence, placing thin washers about 1/16th inch, between the back side of the wood fence and the main support fence.
So, when all is said and done, the outfeed side of the table router fence is closest to the operator and, the infeed side is about 1/16th in behind that. This permits 1/16th inch of stock to be removed with each pass.
NEVER locate the workpiece solely between the bit and the fence. This is an invitation to kickback everytime, hence flying wood. This proceedure is only used to rout a dado or other cut on one side of a larger workpiece and is not a thru cut. This is a dado from the blind side. That's my thought on the subject. Bill

 

I was useing the router table same as table saw.
Thanks for the info.

 

It's tough, Barry, I don't have one of those and...

It's tough, Barry, I don't have one of those and I don't know when I'll get up to Sears to lay my hands on one.
But there's gotta be a way that both fences will be on the same plane!
That's a necessity, you know.
I'll try and dig into the diagram and see if any other suggestions pop up.

OK, I re-looked at the instructions, page 19, what, if anything, is preventing the outfeed fence from sliding back?

Take the both fences forward and then try it again please.

Cordially,
Gerry

 

I have a couple of those little tables. I leave certain bits in them permanently-roundover for examplke- so I can just grab one and use it. There IS a movable fence part on right hand side and it WILL go flush with the infeed side. I think Barry you will just have to play with it a bit....loosen and move etc and check to see if there is burring or some other small flaw that is preventing it from moving. These little fences are crude but useable if you really pay attention.
When you get some time grab a couple videos on routing etc. It will really help you.

 

Barry, I have one of those tables and the adjustable portion should recess flush with the rest of the fence. If it won't go back all the way, I would take it apart and check for dirt or other debris behind it or in the track it sits in.

 

Thanks Brian,
I took it apart and looks to be nothing stopping it from recessing flush so I plan on to exchange it tomorrow.

 

Hi Friend ,
To set the fence, put a straightedge against the outfeed side. Adjust the fence so the straightedge touches the bit cutting edge. Lock the fence down.

 

I plan to exchange it. Is the outfeed the part of the fence that is adjustable?

 

Barry, The out feed fence is the adjustable fence on the left hand side. Adjust it as mentioned by Michealjohn.

Chuck L.

 

Chuck, When I set the outfeed as stated, should the other side (infeed) of the fence be the same? Example - If I were to lower the bit below the table and push a piece of wood along the fence, it catches on the outfeed side which is supposed to be recessed but seems to be off a bit.

 

Broken Fences make bad neighbors!

Hey Barry, It's me again! if you can't get the out feed and infeed fences in the same plane or straight all the way across then, either they are not the same thickness from the factory or something is preventing the out feed fence from seating all the way back(rearward). You could space out the infeed fence with washers, shims of thin wood or plastic on the back side of the infeed fence to get them in the same plane, or you could run the outfeed fence thru the jointer, since it is possible it's a little thicker, but I seriously doubt that. However, if the piece is shorter than 12" I don't recommend this and you may not have a jointer. I would look for an obstruction preventing the outfeed fence from seating all the way rearward or a bend in the main fence, if it is the continuous type. You should be able to set both fences so that a straight edge continually touches the entire surface of both fences. Another approach is to make a new continuous full length wooden add on fence from a tested straight piece with a cut-out in the center for the router cutter. I've done this as well. I don't know if anyone has asked this question: Are there 2 separate fences or is there 1 fence with 2 wooden panels attached? This may help in establishing the problem. That's my advice. Bill

 

Barry, the way I understand it is: it depends on what you want to do to the workpiece with the router bit you have chosen. In some cases you will want the faces flush with one another; other times you will want the OUTFEED side to be somewhat advanced from the INFEED side. Only advance the outfeed side a little bit at a time or you will have problems. You note that when you lower the bit and then run a piece across the fence it hangs up on the OUTFEED side. But stop and think: if the bit were raised and removing wood as you slide it across there would not be material there to hang up. See what I mean. The bit would have REMOVED what is now hanging up, providing you had the fence set a reasonable distance from the workpiece.
Okay. Thats it. I'm done.

 

Flying Wood Update

Thanks to all who responded and I appreciate the amount of windsom in the forum. I am returning the able/fence. I am also going to do research before I route again.

On a lighter side, I have a coment to make about the speed of the "Flying Wood" Wouldn't the speed of the flying wood be measured by calculateing the distance from take off till it landed plus the time it took to get there? That being said, this is the speed I think *** 409 MPH**** Wood flew 30 ft per 1/5 of a sec = 600 ft per sec = 36000 ft per min = 2160000 ft per hr = 409 MPH Of course, keep in mind, I was routeing backwards so this estimate is most likely way off base like me, lol.

 

Terminal Velocity of Flying Wood

Thanks to all who responded and I appreciate the amount of windsom in the forum. I am returning the able/fence. I am also going to do research before I route again.

On a lighter side, I have a coment to make about the speed of the "Flying Wood" Wouldn't the speed of the flying wood be measured by calculateing the distance from take off till it landed plus the time it took to get there? That being said, this is the speed I think *** 409 MPH**** Wood flew 30 ft per 1/5 of a sec = 600 ft per sec = 36000 ft per min = 2160000 ft per hr = 409 MPH Of course, keep in mind, I was routeing backwards so this estimate is most likely way off base like me, lol.

Barry- Hey,even an Art student knows that the velocities/speed were calucated at the muzzle end of the router table or the launch speed. Terminal velocity is effected by many factors: the areodynamics of the piece whether ther is any spiraling or rotation, air density due saw dust in the air, temperature, and most importantly...Was there any audio boost at the time of lanch IE the Holy S*** factor, which as the above poster correctly stated is directly proportional to the size or mass of the piece. Returning the Craftsman table is the best idea. I can recommend www.ptreeusa.com,
for several router tables, www.sommerfieldtools.com, and of course www.woodcraft.com and www.rocklerpro.com and don't forget www.grizzly.com. I'm sure the boys at Router Workshops have some good ones as well. Research is cheap, and avoids problems. Ask the "man"who owns one is always a good idea. I have the Bench Dog Pro cast iron tables and I recommend them. Heavy,true a goof-proof fence system.,and dust collector port. B-D also has the laminated top version in a contractor model 15" tall with cabinet, and fence for $240. Buy the best tools you can afford, wait a while if you have to, fingers are priceless! Bill

 

I caluclate the speed of flying wood by using a different unit of measure. I call the unit the HolyS---s. The audio volume of the HolyS--t is directly proportioned to the size of the piece of wood that goes flying. For example: a small 2"X3" piece of wood might draw a HolyS--t as only as loud as a mumbled whisper. A large slab, say 4" X 36" would cause an outburst HolyS--t that could be heard by a neighbor. A sheet of 3/4 plywood provokes an explosion of HolyS--t loud enough to drown out a shuttle launch.
Carry on men.

 

Lol.

 

Craftsman Router table Fence

Barry: I have one of these tables and have no problem with the outfeed side. It goes right back out of the way. Perhaps there might be a burr on the side or slide that might be able to be sanded off.

 

RYobii..same problem

Hi, new guy here,building our own home,and trimming out now.

Setting up my RYOBI router table,and came here to find out why my out feed fence would not go flush (across the face) with the infeed (with the understanding that in some cases the 1/8 " offset is desirable.)

I read all posts,hoping to see what I was doing wrong.

Per my directions I seem to have it installed correctly.

Does anyone know what I'm doing wrong ?

Or is it a defect?

I'm working the other side with RYOBI customer service while here too.

 

I figured it out...

I have a RYOBI,but I'm guessing it's the same for the Craftsman.

The drawing of part#6 on the exploded view by Gerard Sr's reply shows the two "plastic" guides which get attached to the actual face of the fence with thunbscrews.

What they don't really show you or explain in the directions, is they are DIFFERENT THICKNESSES.

So, if the infeed one is reversed with the outfeed one, (the one with the plate that is adjustable in 1/32" ) you get an offset on the outfeed side that material bumps into.

The thicker one goes to the infeed side to compensate for the adjustable plate.

My RYOBI came assembled correctly,but when I took it apart and put it back together , I accidentally reversed the guides.

It is almost imperceptible difference until you place them side by side.

Work is good again.

 

That might explain the problems I had. After making 2 trips to Sears, both the fences were bad. I returned the Craftsman and purchased a Ryobi (wood fence not plastic) and it was perfect. I am pleased that I ended up with the Roybi router table.

I have a RYOBI,but I'm guessing it's the same for the Craftsman.

The drawing of part#6 on the exploded view by Gerard Sr's reply shows the two "plastic" guides which get attached to the actual face of the fence with thunbscrews.

What they don't really show you or explain in the directions, is they are DIFFERENT THICKNESSES.

So, if the infeed one is reversed with the outfeed one, (the one with the plate that is adjustable in 1/32" ) you get an offset on the outfeed side that material bumps into.

The thicker one goes to the infeed side to compensate for the adjustable plate.

My RYOBI came assembled correctly,but when I took it apart and put it back together , I accidentally reversed the guides.

It is almost imperceptible difference until you place them side by side.

Work is good again.

 

craftsman fence

My experince with this fence is kind of the same - but corrected this by installing a cabinet grade plywood one piece fence -
with a cut out for the router bit ..this allowed the planes to be in a continous path without that little 1/32 bump ... hope this helps.ahh you might want to consider not making the cut out to large as I found the factory fence had a very large cut out that permitted the leading edge as well as the trailing edge of the wood to be brought into the opening...
Bill

 

Craftsman Fence

I have the same fence - same problem - the outfeed face when fully tightened down does not line up with the infeed face - about a tight 16th out.

Not a big deal if you are jointing but a real pain otherwise.

The table is the perfect size for my small shop and otherwise excellent - so I bought a Freud SH5 micro adjustable fence - accurate to .001".

All is now as it should be.

Wife said "Is that new???" I replied "of course not, my little angel - see - same Craftsman table as always".

Whew!

 

The Roybi table has mfb/lanimated wooden fence, 2 pieces. it was only $20 more, fence has t-slot for featherbaord (included) and a little bigger table but still bench top for what I needed. also includes table slot plugs

 

I had a Craftsman similar to that and it had a plastic shim between the fence face and the fence base to be able to adjust the outfeed fence for jointing. Maybe you have both of them on the same side?
Richard

 

Barry,
Aside that the legs are different this is the same table as $79 Ryobi. I bought that table 2 years ago and had exactly same issue. It is very badly manufactured fence. Nothing is square nor perpendicular on it. I ended trowing it out and buying Incra 24x32 table top, Freud SH-5 Professional Micro Adjustable Shaper fence and made my own fence plates. Then I build table top cabinet.