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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've got an older Craftsman router, model 315.17460. I'm about to take it apart for cleaning and to check the brushes and bearings. I see 3 phillips head screws on the top of it and I'm assuming that they have to come out to remove the cover. How does the spindle lock disconnect? It's thru the cover so I assume it must come off somehow in order for the cover to come off.

Also, anyone have a manual for this, preferably with a parts list?

Thanks
Brian
 

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Hi Brian

This should do the trick.. :) #31517460

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/par...AN ROUTER&backToLink=Return to Sub Components

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/par...AN ROUTER&backToLink=Return to Sub Components


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BrianS said:
I've got an older Craftsman router, model 315.17460. I'm about to take it apart for cleaning and to check the brushes and bearings. I see 3 phillips head screws on the top of it and I'm assuming that they have to come out to remove the cover. How does the spindle lock disconnect? It's thru the cover so I assume it must come off somehow in order for the cover to come off.

Also, anyone have a manual for this, preferably with a parts list?

Thanks
Brian
 

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spindle lock

Hi Brian. I have that model which was among 3 routers plus a whole workshop of tools and machines that my next door neighbor willed to me when he died in January. I was the good neighbor who took care of him in his last months. I didn't expect anything in return but in death he was also generous. Enough of that! If you take off the top cover, you will see the lock which has 2 little springs under it. The plastic slider that activates the lock goes through an opening in the side of the cover. The router cover was off when I got it and the switch was shot. I cut the wires to the switch and hope to hardwire a cord to it. The problem was getting the spindle lock back on without the little springs flying out. I still have not figured this out yet.

Good Luck!
Gary
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
ShawnD: As I mentioned, mine had the small cap screw holding the handle onto the lock lever. Once the handle was off, the top was removable.

Seawolf21(Gary) It's already apart.. haven't tried to put it together yet, so I'll let you know how I make out. :)

Doesn't look too hard, I mean, they are only small springs, right? :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
 

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sears router spindle lock removal etc.

Re. Craftsman Router 315.17460. I suppose by now you two have figured out how to remove the spindle lock. There is a metal clip that fits over the lock. I said in my last reply that I had yet to figure out how to keep the lock on. I had to order the clip from Sears and 2 new brushes and the cord and switch that go in the handle. Today I got the lock,springs and spindle handle back on. I have the long power cord but I am waiting for the backordered handle power cord. My problem is this: There is a white and black wire at the top of the unit and I know the long power cord connects to these wires,but there is a red wire also and I don't know what that one connects to. You see this whole router was taken apart when I got it. I also noticed two red wires sticking out of the handle where the switch is. I have to replace the switch in the handle but I don't know where these two red wires go. If anyone knows how to wire up this thing please let me know.

Gary
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Oh sure, now that I have it back together, NOW you ask!! :)

I'll try and slip out for some pics Gary, only take a minute or so to take the top of again. If your's is identical, 2 of the wires feed a light socket. Will get back to you in a bit.

I know, I know, Harry is probably upset at me that I didn't take them in the first place....

Brian
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Ok Gary, here goes....

Wiring is as follows:

motor red to switch red,
motor black to switch white,
power cord black to switch black,
power cord white to motor white.

And, 2 extra red wires off the switch power the light socket mounted in the base. GE 1004 bulb, found in the automotive section. Power for the bulb comes from a secondary field coil, the red wire from the motor, that generates low voltage to supply the bulb.

The springs fit in small grooves on the top of the motor housing, there is a cast piece that sits on top of them, and then the lock lever, and then the spring metal clip to hold everything in place.

Need anything else, don't hesitate to ask... I've still got it apart so more pics is no problem.

Brian
 

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Craftsman router 315.17460

BrianS said:
Ok Gary, here goes....

Wiring is as follows:

motor red to switch red,
motor black to switch white,
power cord black to switch black,
power cord white to motor white.

And, 2 extra red wires off the switch power the light socket mounted in the base. GE 1004 bulb, found in the automotive section. Switch must have a voltage reducer to feed the bulb I think.

The springs fit in small grooves on the top of the motor houseing, there is a cast piece that sits on top of them, and then the lock lever, and then the spring metal clip to hold everything in place.

Need anything else, don't hesitate to ask... I've still got it apart so more pics is no problem.

Brian
Brian. Here are some pics of the router. I found the light which I didn't know was there. The replacement switch from Sears looks different from the original one. I think your pics will help me get this thing up and running. The power cord for the handle is on backorder and should be here by the 23rd. Any problems and I'll contact you. Thanks, Gary
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Gary, the new switch almost looks as if it's in the locked on position from the amount of pin that is sticking out the side. I never even noticed on mine that the wires were removeable from the switch.. just assumed that they were a permanant part of the switch. If the switch is truly different, then perhaps you could trace it thru with an ohm meter to determine which wire goes where.

As far as the power cord for the handle, any 3 conductor wire will work I would think, probably 14gauge, but thats just a guess. Of course, you won't have the grommets, but a few wraps with electrical tape should do the trick.. they are just shock absorbers to prevent strain on the cord.

Brian
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Interesting, I went out to look at my switch and it looks different from either one of those in your picture. When I checked my switch with a continuity tester, it appears that only the black and white wire in the swith harness are actually controlled by the switch. The red wire in the harness does connect to the switch, but it is a direct connection to one of the red wires to the light. The other red wire from the light connects to the white wire.

Brian
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
OH BOY.... this was last year and the details have become a bit sketchy at best. If I recall, there are 2 yellow wires coming from the windings, BUT I could be mistaken. I can take the top off again to be sure if you like, doesn't take that long.
 

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Hello n/a I am going to tell you that if you are trying to ask questions, and some one has to find you back, It is almost impossible to help you when you use n/a for identify. There are many such post here, sometimes 15, or more a day. We want to be able to help you better that that. We are very glad that you found us. Please go to the profile and add your name, (any name) and a location, so we can find you, and give you information that may be more important to your area. Thank You
There are manuals in the jump area on the right bottom. It will come up, and you can see if yours is there
 

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Hi there! I'm new here. (And to woodworking really) I hate to resurrect a long dead forum thread, but...
Looking at the pics on the previous page, what is that thing that looks like a switch behind the springs? And what goes to it? I have a hole where that thing is on mine, 2 white wires with connectors on them, (One from the motor and one from the power cord) and I have no yellow wires coming off of the brushes. Any help would be appreciated!
 

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Hi Kit, welcome to the forum.

No problem resurrecting an old post. That is why we keep them.......
 
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