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Cross Slide Vise for Benchtop Mortiser

26575 Views 29 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  bobj3
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Bench top Mortiser Cross-Slide Vise

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Here is a new addition to my woodshop.
I’ve had the Powermatic bench top mortiser for a few years and have cut many a mortise on it. It’s a great tool, but I have been envious of the full-size mortisers with the sliding table. Even though my mortises are crisp with the machine, set-up, alignment, and moving the work piece to cut the mortises has been time consuming. Getting the perfect alignment has always taken too much time, especially when boring only a couple of mortises for a project.
I’ve been thinking of installing a cross-slide vise on the mortiser for a couple of years and finally got around to it. I found a great article on popularwoodworking.com with a great solution for adding the vise.
Popular Woodworking - 3-D Mortising Upgrade

The problem with using a cross-slide vise on bench top mortisers is that the clearance below the chisel is usually 4-5 inches and these vises can range from 5 to 7 inches tall. They also are configured to clamp the work piece perpendicular to the mortiser table.
The solution is two-step:
1. Either add riser blocks to the mortiser (if available) to gain proper clearance from the chisel, or build a riser table and mount the vise.
2. Modify the cross-slide vise to orient the clamp parallel to the table.
Both of these solutions are outlined in this article (see link above).

I started by modifying the vise (Grizzly G0164, 4” vise for $45.95) so that the clamp and Y-axis threaded rods are on the same side of the vise, pointing toward the operator. The article shows you how to do this, by removing the Y-axis rod and tapping new mounting plate holes on the opposite side. It took all of about 30 minutes to do this. I also removed the original screw handles for the X/Y-axis movement and replaced them with a couple of 5/16-18 star knobs I had sitting around. The threads on the vise handles is 8 mm, slightly larger than 5/16”. Since the knobs have a threaded brass insert, I just cross-threaded them on to the rod posts and the fit is tight.

To build the riser table, I used scraps of plywood and MDF for all the components. It’s a very simple table to build; a few dados and glue the whole thing together. I modified the construction from the article a little. For the interior supports to bolt the mortiser to the table, I doubled each support using two pieces of ¾” plywood. I dadoed out 11/32” wide by 11/64” deep channels in the four pieces (opposite sides of two pieces for each support), in-line with the mounting holes on the base of the mortiser column, glued two matching pieces together. This gave me through bolt holes in the supports to attach the mortiser to the riser table. You could used long hex cap bolts to through bolt all the way to the bottom of the table, but I used some 5/16-18 cross dowel nuts and 3-1/2” long socket head cap screws. I think that either of these modifications from the original article will give much better holding power when securing the heavy mortiser to the table. I wouldn’t trust four lag screws set into the edge of ¾” plywood to hold it in place.

After assembly, I rounded over the edges, a little sanding, and painted the table to match (close enough) the Powermatic mustard gold color. The whole system is bolted to my rolling stand.

I’ve already cut a few mortises with the new rig. It took me about a quarter of the time to mount the piece, square up the chisel, set the depth and plough out the mortise. And fine-tuning is miles ahead of the old table hold-downs, which required tapping and checking each piece. Now with a slight twist of the X/Y knobs, I can line up the mortise in a couple of seconds.

I think I’ll add some outfeed supports on the table for stabilizing larger pieces.

If you do a lot of mortising and only have a bench top mortiser, I’m sure you’ll find this upgrade well worth it. And even if it’s only a few mortises every now and then, this project is a great addition to your tool arsenal. The vise cost me $55 (including shipping) and the bolts and nuts $5. It’s a pretty cheap upgrade that has made my woodworking life a little bit easier.
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I don't know guys. Nothing against the idea, but it seems like an awful lot of trouble just to put a long hole in some wood. I think I'll stick with holding the wood with my hand against a fence.
If nothing else, it's a lot faster getting the job done.
I am hoping for a far more repeatable mortise when making a lot of them.

It should make it far easier to center the mortis and handle the stock. My old fence and hold down was always frustrating and a pain to get right.

I am still looking at how to make some stops for the vise for some of my more frequent mortis sizes and positions.
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Pretty much done. Took the chuck access door with me for paint matching.

Two coats of paint.

Have not used it yet. Will get a chance tomorrow or the next day. I have a bunch of face frames to do. I am looking forward to using it. It is so smooth, sits higher, and seems far more stable than before.

Enjoy the photos!

Thanks Michael.

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Another well done job! Nice work brad. It's good to see a "leftie's" version as well.
Another well done job! Nice work brad. It's good to see a "leftie's" version as well.
Thanks for the kind words Deb.

This project was out of pure selfishness on my part. It looks like it will make my life easier when it comes to mortising and that was the driving force behind the build.

I look forward to breaking her in this week!
Nice job Brad :)

May I ask a question, why didn't you put it all the way to one side so you could swing it out to do the long boards :)

Floating tetons work very well if you have a way to put the slots in the ends..:)

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Pretty much done. Took the chuck access door with me for paint matching.

Two coats of paint.

Have not used it yet. Will get a chance tomorrow or the next day. I have a bunch of face frames to do. I am looking forward to using it. It is so smooth, sits higher, and seems far more stable than before.

Enjoy the photos!

Thanks Michael.
Nice job Brad :)

May I ask a question, why didn't you put it all the way to one side so you could swing it out to do the long boards :)

Floating tetons work very well if you have a way to put the slots in the ends..:)

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:no:Then I would not have any reason to use my hand chisels!!!!:moil:
Cross Slide Vise Mortiser Table

Brad,

Great job! That's a nice looking mortiser table. I'm sure that you'll like it as much as I like mine. Shop life is just a little easier with it.
Let us know how you like using it and any ideas/modifications you find that might make it even better.
As I said in a previous post, I plan to add left/right side supports for larger workpieces. When I get something put together, I'll post some pics.
Once again, excellent work.
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Hi

hahahahahahahahaha

Just to use them to clean out bottom of the slots hahahaha

http://www.routerforums.com/show-n-tell/10133-birch-m-t-jig.html

this one is a bit high in price ,about 100.oo dollars..:(
http://cgi.ebay.com/Craftsman-Indus...ViewItemQQptZRouters_Bits?hash=item2a01474ab4
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:no:Then I would not have any reason to use my hand chisels!!!!:moil:

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Hi

hahahahahahahahaha

Just to use them to clean out bottom of the slots hahahaha

http://www.routerforums.com/show-n-tell/10133-birch-m-t-jig.html

this one is a bit high in price ,about 100.oo dollars..:(
Craftsman Industrial Mortise & Tennon (Router) Jig - eBay (item 180410075828 end time Nov-19-09 12:31:50 PST)
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Nice jig! I will have to remember where I saw it if or when I ever need to mortis the end of several large pieces of lumber.
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Hi Brad

It will do the small stuff as well ( 1/4" and 3/8" thick stock )
plus the bigger stock as well...I do like to use it on 1/2" wide MDF stock,,it will put the teton right on the end of the MDF stock that's always hard to hook up..

I have started to use a lot of the FLEX stock and it works great on the plastic stock..with the dowel pins to lock the joints.


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Nice jig! I will have to remember where I saw it if or when I ever need to mortis the end of several large pieces of lumber.

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