[harrysin]

In an attempt to keep the forum moving along I dug out these pics. of a box that I made as a Christmas present in November last year for a very good friend who has 16 pairs of cufflinks and wears them regularly at business meetings. the timber is West Australian Sheoak. These are the only pics. taken during the making as it was before I joined the forum. If you don't have cufflinks, make it anyway for you're wives' rings.Harry

ps: I haven't yet mastered the art of keeping the pics. in the order that I downloaded them. H

 

[bobj3]

Very Nice Harry

You did a great job

Here's tip that I have used in the pass, To make the small boxes inside the big one I use wooden window blind stock, that anyone can buy at Home Depot/Lowes I buy the window blinds and take them apart and take out the HARDWOOD parts (slats) ( the norm is hard maple) they are true and just the right size for many types of projects, the last one I got was 6ft long x 6ft wide (window size) for 30.oo bucks and now I have all the stock I need for a long time at the right price.
All without a resaw on the band saw or the table saw.

They can be used for making great router bit boxes, for bits and parts for the router like the collet nuts,brass bars,etc.or the little parts you want to keep track of.

Bj

 

[challagan]

That is a beautiful box Harry. Gorgeous timber.... I see that sheoak used a lot on the Oz forum. Wish we could get that here. That box could be used for alot. Very well made and some fine craftsmanship. What is the finish?

Corey

 

[Joe Lyddon]

Beautiful job, Harry!

That wood is georgous!!

Those corner clamps look nice too! Did you clamp & glue the other side using conventional clamps at the same time?

How did you Finish the box?

Sure looks nice!! I used to wear cufflinks everyday to work, when I worked for an accounting firm... Haven't worn them in years, now... nor ties!

Thank you for sharing!!

 

[Joe Lyddon]

Very Nice Harry

You did a great job

Here's tip that I have used in the pass, To make the small boxes inside the big one I use wooden window blind stock, that anyone can buy at Home Depot/Lowes I buy the window blinds and take them apart and take out the HARDWOOD parts (slats) ( the norm is hard maple) they are true and just the right size for many types of projects, the last one I got was 6ft long x 6ft wide (window size) for 30.oo bucks and now I have all the stock I need for a long time at the right price.
All without a resaw on the band saw or the table saw.

They can be used for making great router bit boxes, for bits and parts for the router like the collet nuts,brass bars,etc.or the little parts you want to keep track of.

Bj

Bob, you are SO clever!!

That is a super idea!!

That gives me an a good reason to go to Home Depot (although I hate that store)!

Thank you!

 

[bobj3]

Hi Joe

Thanks. I'm a cheap old SOB again,, when I goto HD I go late at night so I can dig around a bit, without someone saying may I help you , that way I can find the damage goods and ask the guy in the back to knock the price down, works almost all the time.
Cheap SOB I am ,I also got some plastic window blinds ,that are right at 1/8" thick and about 2" wide that work well also,it's no trick to tape them up and use the table saw to put in the slots quick and easy because the blade I use is 1/8" wide also.

One more note*** if you go diging ,look for the spot where they make them up to order , you can find cut offs in the trash can, they will let you have them at no charge, just ask the guy in the back to tape them up and mark them so you can get out the front door with them . it's the squeaky door gets the oil

They sale or make two types of wooden ones, some have a taper to them that's the ones you don't want to used, the good ones are about 3/16" to 1/4" wide and are true (flat)

I should note **** if you find the taper ones in the trash can and you want to used them just make a quick jig and run the under the planer to get them flat, I have use double sided carpet tape and put them on 3/4" MDF board, one quick pass and then flip them over and you got them done at almost no charge...

JOE ****
One more NOTE*** if you go to HD go by the flooring dept. and pickup some of the free plasic blocks (poly) they give away to install the flooring,(drive blocks) some one the forum told me about that one


Bj

 

[Bob N]

Great job Harry!

I am just now getting into box making and I am going to save this picture as a future project. I really like everything about it.

 

[Joe Lyddon]

JOE ****
One more NOTE*** if you go to HD go by the flooring dept. and pickup some of the free plasic blocks (poly) they give away to install the flooring,(drive blocks) some one the forum told me about that one
Bj

What would I do with them?
Thanks for the tips...

 

[bobj3]

Hi Joe

Cutting blocks (for cooking in the kitchen, choping blocks) ,jig fixtures,router table fence,fence for the band saw,hold down blocks,under the corners of the router table cabinet so you don't need to use wheels it's so slick they will let you move it around the shop but will also let you use it without moving around the shop,it's the same suff they sale in round pads to put under the washing maching corners pads,you can also get the hole saws out and make some for the boss so she can move the furniture around the house so she can pull it out and clean under it, many ,many things.

Round Pads,= just cut them out on the drill press then chuck up the forester bit and put in a shallow center hole or the only way around, but the center 1/4" will let the junk fall out the bottom of the pad. or when you used them on the router table use the hole for a flat hd. wood screw. #14 x 3/4" long.



Bj

 

[harrysin]

Thanks gents for you're kind remarks, herewith are answers to questions raised.
The corner clamps were too big for four to be used at the same time so when the glue set they were moved to the other side. An interesting thing about those clamps, when I bought them they looked state of the art at a very reasonable price, but at about this time my mitre joints started to deteriorate to the point that I was re-working the mitres on the linisher. One day I became really p...ed off and decided to check the clamps and found they were off vertical and off 45deg. I decided to try milling them and was surprised that they turned out perfect.
The finish was three coats of high gloss clear lacquer.
The slat idea is a good one for where the timber doesn't have to match that of the box,but I intend to purchase some as soon as possible.
Harry

 

[challagan]

mitre joints started to deteriorate to the point that I was re-working the mitres on the linisher.
Harry

Hi Harry, I am not quite sure what you mean about the linisher? Is this some kind of trimmer like used in picture framing that slices and ever so thin layer off?

I haven't made a box large enough that I couldn't clamp with stretched packing tape and big thick rubber bands. I did like the looks of Bobj's home made .45 jig though... much cheaper than the store bought ones.

Harry, one thing about uploading pics. It might be easier to go to one of the photo storage album sites like Photosite.com or photobucket etc. There you can upload your photos for storage etc. It will give you a URL that you can just cut and paste and put in your post in the order you want them. The photos will be the original size though.. not thumbnail shots. Just something that might be less of a headache but it does add the step of uploading the photos to another site but I like to do it that way myself. It allows you to make comments about something in a particular photo and then have the photo follow it.

Corey

 

[harrysin]

Translation..Aussie English>>US English

Hi Corey, for some reason not known to me,downunder the belt/disk sander is known as a Linisher pict. herewith photo. also that of a Belt sander.
I do sometimes use tensioned masking tape to "clamp" boxes by laying the pieces in line outside uppermost and stretching the tape along leaving a couple of inches protruding then after spreading glue bring the sides together. this method though does not guarantee that the box remains perfectly square, corner clamps do.
Regarding the thumbnails,I may well try you're suggestion but wouldn't it be better if Mark could tame this programme? cheers Corey, Harry

 

[challagan]

Harry thanks for the information and I sure wouldn't ever have guessed belt/disk sander but I fully understand now Thanks,

Corey

 

[gregW]

beautiful box Harry. Do you just attach the dividers to the interior of the box with glue?

Greg

 

[challagan]

Greg, I would expect that the divider assembly just sits inside of the box as I don't see any dado's or grooves in the box sides. A well made assembly like Harry made is very sturdy all by it's self and doesn't really need to be let into the sides. If anything you could cut the grooves on the sides for the two main lateral dividers and then have the remainder fit onto the 2 mains with the same joinery but in my opinion that is a lot of work for no real reason and there isn't any room for error.

Corey

 

[Bob N]

ha ha.... now ask Corey about a "poser"

 

[harrysin]

Thanks for you're interest Greg.,in the past I have made several boxes for different kinds of tea bags and I routed grooves for the assy. to fit into, but as Corey said, it's a lot of work and has to be very accurate so for the cufflink box I took the easy way out and made it a good fit then used a dab of glue here and there, It's amazing how we learn as time goes by. Harry

 

[gregW]

Thanks for the info. I've never tried to make a box like these, but I sure would like to one of these days...Very nice work Harry!

Greg

 

[challagan]

Another great looking box Harry. You do nice work!

Corey

 

[curiousgeorge]

Nice work Harry, as always.