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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've just purchase a new Makita RP2301 plunge router to replace a Freud 2000e that finally gave up the ghost. I'm looking for some ideas on how's the best way to mount this router in a custom table. I make a lot of custom molding and like the option to use the router above and below the table. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Welcome to the forum, Evan..

I take your question to mean that you want to be able to use the router in the table and also as a hand held router?

Unless you use the router in a small insert plate, this will not be easy due to the amount of setting and adjusting you will have to do every time you switch..
 

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Hi Evan and welcome. Did you mean in the table and just as a plunge or were you including a horizontal setup and/or over the table as opposed to just sitting on the table?
 

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Welcome to the forum Evan.
 

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Evan, using the $13 Grizzly mounting plate works fine. When a router is installed on a mounting plate it is the same as using any oversized sub base plate and can be used hand held.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Makita 2301 mounted in a table

Welcome to the forum, Evan..

I take your question to mean that you want to be able to use the router in the table and also as a hand held router?

Unless you use the router in a small insert plate, this will not be easy due to the amount of setting and adjusting you will have to do every time you switch..
Thanks for your reply. Yes I do plan to have the router mounted to a rectangular plate. I'll be using the same plate that I had my Freud 2000e mounted to. Having the plate also made it a snap to change router bits. My question is would I use the four small screws threads (that the plastic plate to the base of the router is attached) to attach the plate or somehow use the guide wholes to support the weight. After talking to Makita Support, they offer no help at all.
 

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Evan, you can use the sub base plate on your router as a template to drill the mounting holes. You should use a centering cone or other device to be sure you are exactly centered when mounting your plate so you can use guide bushings. You may need longer screws depending on your mounting plates thickness but these are easy to come by.
 

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I used my Triton mounted in a 9 1/4" X 13" plate in that way a couple of time by using the Triton in ratchet mode and not in plunge mode as I removed the spring for table work.


With the Triton is is very easy to replace the spring for hand held use. May not be so easy for other makes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks, the screws on the Makita are 4X mm, my old Freud was much larger. Thus my concern was whether or not 4X mm would withstand the weight/stress of the router. When I called Makita, they didn't recommend it for mounting in a table. Thus... My concerns.
 

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I've had my Makita RP2301 in a router table for the past few years and have had no problems with using the 4 fixing points in the router base to hold it onto the table insert plate. I have replaced the standard screws with longer stainless steel ones.
It's not a quick task to remove/replace the router, for hand use, from the table but a second router solved that problem for me :yes2:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks, that puts my mind at rest. One other question/comment, I've ordered a 6X150 mm allen wrench head screw for the lift of the router through the router base from a fastener supplier. Has anyone else used this feature and if so, how well does it work. I saw a youtube video on it's use. Again, Makita support acted like they didn't even know what it was and do not sell the part.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks, I had one more question/comment for the forum. I've ordered the screw so I can use the lift through the plate of the router (Makita) - 6X150 mm. I saw this used on a youtube video. Has anyone taken advantage of this feature. BTW, Makita support didn't even know what it was nor do they sell the screw for it. It looks like it would make raising and lowers the router a snap!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Makita 2301 mounted in a table

Thanks for the responses. I have one addition question/response - The Makita's has a place in the base to accommodate a lift screw through and threaded into the side of the RP2301. I've ordered a 4X150 mm screw for it. I was wondering if anyone has used it and if so, how well does it work? I saw this used on a YouTube video where he used his drill to raise and lower the router. I had called and talked to Makita support and they didn't even know it existed let along sell the screw as an accessory.
 

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I tried that by using the long cross headed machine screw that came with the router but soon gave up on it due to taking too long and it constantly filling up with sawdust.

I only use the fine adjuster knob for setting up and push the router up by hand for cutter changes.

Let us know how you get on with the Allen bolt when you get it.
 

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I've just purchase a new Makita RP2301 plunge router to replace a Freud 2000e that finally gave up the ghost. I'm looking for some ideas on how's the best way to mount this router in a custom table. I make a lot of custom molding and like the option to use the router above and below the table. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Hello Evan
I have just got a Makita and am facing the same problems. It would seem that the table system makes like Triton, Trend,Festool, which all have there own tables to match have the edge on the Makita. There seems to be a gap in the market for what we are trying to do ?. I am getting to the point of giving up on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Makita 2301 mounted in a table

I've had my Makita RP2301 in a router table for the past few years and have had no problems with using the 4 fixing points in the router base to hold it onto the table insert plate. I have replaced the standard screws with longer stainless steel ones.
It's not a quick task to remove/replace the router, for hand use, from the table but a second router solved that problem for me :yes2:
On my last post I indicated I had ordered the bolt that would be used to lift and lower the Makita 2301 through the router plate. When it arrived, it only had about an inch or so of actual threads. So I ordered a piece of threaded bar stock instead. When it arrived I went to HD and bought an allen-head wrench head 6x25 mm and welded it on to about 130 mm of the threaded bar stock. (apprently a 6X150 mm bolt threaded all the way does not exist) Rebuilt my router table from an old formica table top I had laying around, used parts from an old Craftsman table saw including the base and it all works like a charm. I replace the four 4x mm screw holding on the plate with four 4X25 mm screw to attach my router plate. I also used the on/off switch so I don't have to reach under the table and turn on the router via the handle switch. I use my drill to raise and lower the router with an allen-wrench bit. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Good to hear you have sorted things out.
Any chance of a few photo's?
Here are a couple photos. As you can see my router plate is probably 90 degree from the norm, but I had changed my mind mid stream and used more of my existing Formica table and so my orientation of my fence worked better the way you see. (using my old parts from my Craftsman table saw). I also used my external switch so I could easily turn on/off the router.

I use my drill to raise and lower the router. Much easier than using the micro screw from under the table. You'll notice the screw had to be manufactured from threaded bar stock and an allen head screw purchased at HD. (6X150 mm was what I made it) I could not find anyone that had this bold/screw, but mine works great. For fine adjustments, I use my hand held allen wrench, then lock it in place with the locking tab on the router.

To change the router bit, I still find it easiest to lift the router out of the table.

It's not fancy, but it works great for me.
 

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I own a Makita rp1800fx router, which is basically a lightweight version of the 2300 but it's mounted the same way. I made a routerplate out of two layers of 6mm HPL. I've copied the position of the mounting screw from the plastic baseplate.
My router came with the long 6x150mm screw. Adjusting the height of the router is easy with the cordless drill and fine adjustments can be made with a normal screwdriver or the the fine adjustment on the router itself. Works like a charm.
 

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