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Cutting a Groove/Making Matching Piece

1739 Views 10 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  Cherryville Chuck
Hi guys,
I had explored this in the past.I was wanting to take a 3/4" straight bit and cut a groove 3" long in a flute.I make wooden flutes. So it 3/4" wide by 3" long by 1/4" to 1/2" deep. It would be just when you stop the router....having a radius or curved end on both ends of the groove...I am good so far up to this point....I want to make a piece to fit as perfectly as possible into the groove.It would be glued in place. How do I do this? Thanks a bunch in advance!!!
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cut a floating tenon to fit and slice or cut off the length the tenon to your happiness...
treat this as an inlay such as a butterfly/bowtie..
and extreme jig to do this would be a Leigh FMT Pro...
you could make your own jig...

to make a floating tenon it takes nothing more than a piece of stock to size and a bullnose or half-round bit


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It sounds like you have the groove already and want to perfect-fit a piece into the groove...?

Trying to picture what that would look like...can you supply a picture...?
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A picture of what you want to do would really help us help you
This would be a modification .I havent done it yet but think I will try it. Stick pretty much gave me the idea of how to make what I need ...cutting the floating tendon .
Thanks "Stick".I have never cut a tendon but guess it is a good time to learn.
Cutting the groove I think you already have figured out. I think it's getting the ends rounded that maybe has you stumped. If you are making a bunch of these I would make a long rounded tenon style piece like Stick suggested and then use a 3/8" radius bull nose (same curve as your straight bit) to round the ends and then cut slices off it the thickness you need.
no bullnose or half round???
use a 3/8'' round over and your RT...
Yeah I have the groove figured out...I just cut 3/4" groove or slot the length needed and stop.It will be rounded on the ends .I need to make a piece to fit into this groove.It is actually to make a repair where something didnt go like it was supposed to. Thanks !
here's an image of a loose/floating tenon...
you can do the tenon in end or long grain...

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Attach your workpiece to a backer strip or push block. That way when you push it past the router bit you'll greatly reduce or eliminate tearout. Routing end grain is really prone to tearout. You can make your pusher block so that a clamp can be used to hold your work to it. The clamp helps prevent the tearout more and well as making the work feed more stably past the bit and gives you something to hold onto. You can see what I mean by going to post #11 in this thread:
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