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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm going to cut the phenolic to make a rail and stile jig my questtions are. Do you need a special blade to cut this material?what kind of glue will stick my guide block and or backing block to this I plan to use a piece of UHMW for this ?
 

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Jigs are most often built from HDPE, high density polyethylene. There is no glue that will stick to UHMW. Perhaps one of our members knows the proper blade for cutting phenolic? If you want to build a rail and stile sled you can do this easily with 1/4" thick hardboard (Masonite) and pine.
 

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Like Mike says you can make one pretty easily out of common materials. Here is an example of one that could easily be duplicated with the materials Mike mentions. As you can see below, you can really save some cash making one like this. Hardboard, plywood, mdf and 3/4 pine is cheap.

http://www.eagleamerica.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E_400-1248

Corey
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
yep thats what I have in mind but am building mine so it has a locked fence and is locked to the table that way everything is repeatable without a pile of setup. my idea will have a sub base with attached fence that locks down on the able after i have got all setup and test peice cut and am happy will permenetly attach my UHMW to the phenolic make a pass past this and it will become a permenet setup jig attach my lockdown and peice of sand paper and should be able to mill rails and stiles repeatably and as many as i wish
 

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Hi: I would use a router and straight bit( or a spiral) bit to cut the phenolic. I don't know of any glue that will stick to either of those materials. Oak-Park uses phenolic in the systems that they sell like the raised panel door system, and they do not use any glue just screws that are counter sunk in to the phenolic. You could use tape to hold the parts until you drill the holes for the screws. Hope this helps Woodnut65
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
yes this seems that it is the method for attachment of parts was wondering though if a 71/4 finishing blade and a table saw would cut the phenolic without chipping If there is anny doubt I'll use the router my thoughts being less chance of melt on the table saw
 

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Cutting most plastics can be done with a saw blade but are best done with the router. The reason is the finish, nice and smooth. You could make a rough cut with your saw blade to get the material close to size and then a finish cut with the router. If you are planning on using the double stick tape to hold your UHMW in place, it wont work. Nothing sticks to UHMW. You could through drill it and attach it with a screw and locking nut.
 

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BJ, I looked at all the links and could not find any products listed to glue polyethylene. I checked with a plastics expert and was told nothing will glue UHMW. Am I missing something?
 

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Hi Mike
I will need to call my bud at Colorado Plastic and ask what the part number is for sure.
But I will get back to you. (it's IPS Weld-On part number)
----------------

Mike
He's out till Monday but I did find this on the site.

LocTite PDF
HDPE, high density polyethylene
http://www.gluguru.com/PDF/Product 3030 TDS.pdf


Bj :)
 

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I think I'm missing something here, why not just screw your templete/guide piece from the bottom side the base plate? You would want to use it as a backer to prevent tear-out anyway, right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
yes that's exactly what I have in mind Hamlin my train of thought with the glue or tape was eaiser to hold in position while drilling holes for screws but if nothing sticks then I'll just clamp it in place drill the holes and screw it together .I think I saw the glue used on this old house to build a jig tom was using
 

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BJ, the disclaimer at the bottom of that MSDS sheet says it is an experimental product that is not now and may never be available for sale. I would be delighted if it was available.
 
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