I can't remember seeing them in larger sizes. Maybe they are available in shaper bits. If you go vertical I would clamp a 2x4 (or thicker) to the table to keep the board wedged tight against the fence. This will give you a straight groove and protect your fingers. I would nail stops to the 2x on either side of the bit so that you could rock the cutting board down onto the bit and rock it up and off the bit at the end of the cut.

 

how about a raised panel...
cut..
flip the board over and recut...

ball bit???

 

I can't find the bit I'm looking for. Any help?

hand rail bit...
Freud Tools | 1-3/16" (Dia.) Handrail Bit

finger grip....
Finger Grip Bits - Lee Valley Tools

 

I can't find my pictures but I did that with a cove bit mounted in a plunge router. I made some supports that were clamped to each side of the board. Then I carefully measured and screwed a pair of "stops" onto the two supports.

Now that I think about it, I think I used a guide bushing with the cove bit.

That worked out perfect. I was able to plunge cut the cove and move the router until it hit the stops.

I still have that jig. See pic below.
To hold the board steady, I clamped in into a vise.

Hope this helps.
Mike

 

WTB that jig and a ball bit would work out well...

 

Routing finger grips

Henry

Don't shy away from holding a workpiece vertically on a router table. A tall fence, a second fence and two stops provide all the control you need for safe and accurate routing. See my attached photo - I call this setup a 'corral'. I use a 3/4" diameter corebox bit and take multiple passes including a very fine final pass

 

Fabulous tips & techniques offer a variety of solutions to my problem. Love this forum! Thanks for your help ... now I just need to decide what to do!