[456GTM]

Hello,

I am planning to build two subwoofer "cabinets" for my electrostatic panels. I visited a CNC shop but they specialize in volume so I decided to do it myself.

I tried cutting the curved panels with a jig saw set at 0 [disabled rotation mode] but it turns a little bit no matter how tight I hold the handle. The chaps at the CNC shop recommended that I use a portable router. I had a top of the line Craftsman router but sold it many years ago so I just purchased a new Makita RT0701CX3 1-1/4 HP Compact Router Kit that comes with a straight guide.

My question is, how do it follow the curves with my new router? I have to make four pieces that have to be identical. Please see drawing. I have also attached photos of a friend's unfinished cabinets without the grille, they were built in a shop in the UK.

Best regards,

Horacio

 

[456GTM]

Hello,

Thanks much for the useful tips. A few months ago, I did build a pair of stands for the same loudspeakers that now I am going to use with additional subwoofers. I used a jig saw but I had to sand a lot and both panels are not identical, please see photos. We live in Pinecrest (Miami). David, you are right about the screen name, I had a 456.

Any recommendations regarding a router bit with bearings, straight or spiral?

Horacio

 

[456GTM]

I did not realize that there are just a few 3/8" shank router bits, Whiteside website shows only 6 with 3/8" shanks and there are no spiral bits, just straight bits. I will have to decide between the Whiteside #1035 straight bit 3/8"SH, 3/8"CD, 1"CL for around $14 and the Amana 45400 2-flute for $16.

Horacio

 

[456GTM]

Hi Mike, thanks much for taking the time to guide me through this, I will follow your advice and will post pictures later.

Cheers,

Horacio

 

[456GTM]

Regarding my jig saw [discontinued Bosch 1584 AVSK] I think that I have been using 0 as the wrong orbit setting. According to the owners manual I should use setting III for soft materials such as wood or plastic [my project uses 3/4" Baltic Birch plywood]. Blade is a Bosch T101AO. Let's see how it goes.

Horacio

 

[456GTM]

Thanks Eric, you are right the T101AD was a poor choice. I found a T144D in a drawer, tried it and it worked perfectly. Nevertheless, per your suggestion, I will order a package of T244D.
Photo shows 3/4" plywood template, I will use the Freud top bearing bit that I received today to clean it up.

In '85 had a top of the line Craftsman, I do not remember the model, and made perfect circles using a Craftsman trammel point. There is one for sale on ebay but the distance between the rods that attach to the router base are too wide [5"] for my Makita. Festool sells a simple trammel unit [483922] for $27 but I am not sure it will fit my router. I will need a trammel to cut the drivers' holes [loudspeakers] at 277mm - inner circle. Please see template.

Cheers,

 

[456GTM]

Trend Beams are only available in the UK, too bad I like them. I think that I will go with the homemade trammel posted by Mike.

On another note, I used the Makita with the top bearing flush bit for a couple of inches to see how it worked but I burned the material, I used a piece of poor quality Home Depot 3/4" plywood. What am I doing wrong?

 

[456GTM]

No, I do not have any dust extraction, I work in my garage driveway. Speed was at 6 - 30K rpm. Oliver and Mike suggested 1/8" excess but I will try to leave less.

 

[456GTM]

One more question, please. What bit should I use for cutting the holes? I understand that I should be passing the router in 1/8" increments.

Cheers,

Horacio

 

[456GTM]

Jack, congratulations, what a great job you have done. I did purchase a pair of Amana 2-flute straight bit from Toolstoday at a very good price, cheaper than Diablo at the HD, they are fantastic.

Following the advise of everyone here I was able to cut a perfect template with a top bearing flush trim bit and also a perfect hole for the speakers, these are samples just to practice. Now I am ready to start the real work but I am having trouble with the rabbeting bit, please see photos. It seems that I do not know how to handle the router. I used this bit forty years ago when I built my first pair of speakers, it is a Craftsman and it is burned but I used it to practice.

 

[456GTM]

I passed it clockwise but as I said, the bit is over 40 years old, it uses screws instead of bearings. I should have thrown it away a long time ago but since I found it I used it to practice. I think that the screw does not have the versatility and free movement of a bearing, I will buy a Multi-Rabbet bit with four and six different rabbet depths.

 

[456GTM]

The depth for the speaker frame is only 3.5mm but the width is 19.05mm or 3/4". The cut widths are between 1/8" to 1/2" max. How do I reach 3/4", any suggestions?

Many thanks in advance.

Horacio Vignale

 

[456GTM]

My router will accept only a 3/8" shank maximum

 

[456GTM]

Hello Chaps,

Attached are photos of my cabinets, they are far from finished, the base of the electrostatic panels need to be covered probably with pieces of kerf MDF and later veneered, they also need to be stained.

Per Jack's recommendations I bought several Amana router bits, they are great and a good value for the money, I purchased them from Toolstoday, I am very satisfied with their attention and customer support.

Horacio