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Cutting dado with hand router

4464 Views 5 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  template tom, 
S
20
Good day

I know that there are a few methods to cut dado.
I would like to share with you my way.
With this method, I always know where the “bit will hit” or cut.

“See NOTE in text”
When you see on the picture “See NOTE in text”, I did not have space on the picture to type:
“You can make the same knife mark on the other side of the board and move the plate with the slot to the other side and check that the knife mark is at the same distance (like the first one) from the board edge. If it’s not, shim the T guide.
Please let me know if the above note is not clear, I’ll try to make a picture.

Let the pictures talk….

Regards
niki

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G
Hey Niki!
Looks like it works real nicely - thanks for sharing with us!
Seldom will a bit fit the actual width of your material - good work-around!
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S
Thank you Gilbear

I don’t like all the measuring and calculations around, I was looking (thinking) for some jig that will tell me; “your bit will cut here” and that’s the result, the cut is always on the knife mark.

I’m using the “knife mark” also for circular saw with the same precisian but we are in routers forum and...

niki
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Mike
Just curious why your dado cut is so shallow? The common rule of thumb is half the material thickness. Also I was wondering if you have had any of these joints fail since the glue doesnt adhere well to the melamine?
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S
Hi Mike

I made this dado only as an example for the pictures.
As you noticed, the marking example was made on MDF and the actual routing on Melamine, I just used the melamine because of the good contrast for the pictures.
I never use dado connection in Melamine but Confitmat screws and sometimes dowels or both.

niki
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T
aniceone2hold said:
Just curious why your dado cut is so shallow? The common rule of thumb is half the material thickness. Also I was wondering if you have had any of these joints fail since the glue doesnt adhere well to the melamine?
Click to expand...
hi Mike
Just to add my tuppence worth I always try for 1/3rd of the thickness of the upright material.
This adds greater strength to the material and prevents bowing should the shelf material be too tight
Strange how we all have different idea. Same with the mortice I always try for 1/3rd of the thickness of the stile only if the rail is the same thickness
Tom
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