Hi Nathan, welcome to the forum. Your profile doesn't say what type router(s) you have available. If you are using a plunge router I would set the depth stop turret for about 1/4" cuts and set the third setting for the correct depth and then finish the first setting to the correct depth and then move over and dial in the correct width and finish it. The plunge stop will take care of the depth for you. It will be difficult to move the fence back and forth that many times and maintain the correct width.

 

Hi Nathan - I agree with Chuck, no reason to take 10 passes to do that job. With a 1/4" shank bit, you should be able to get a 1/4" depth of cut if you don't push it to hard. With a half inch shank bit, I'd do the passes 5/16" at a time. Make the first passes to depth and then move the fence.

 

You should build one of this for shop
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=7j4vGS...?v=7j4vGS4HY-8&autoplay=1&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3D7j4vGS4HY-8%26autoplay%3D1

 

Agree....

You should build one of this for shop
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=7j4vGS...?v=7j4vGS4HY-8&autoplay=1&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3D7j4vGS4HY-8%26autoplay%3D1

+1. This would be the easiest way to make a dado wider than your cutter.

 

This will be the first time I’m using my router table and I wanted to check in on the procedure to do so.

Nathan

Hi Nathan - Just one tip. When you move your fence to make the second cut to achieve the width, the fence must move toward the back. If you move it forward, toward you, the next pass will toss your workpiece into the far wall. Easy mistake to make when just starting out on a table.

 

What the other guys have said, but don't initially move the fence to the full width, leave it at least 1/64th" undersize, then try the track and enlarge the width if necessary, a small amount at a time. If you have micro adjust on your fence, it will be really easy.

 

stop block for sled

Another approach is not to use a track. I try to find the simplest method. Here is a photo of how a micro adjustable stop block that I use on the table saw for cut offs, stops on the router table and I can attach it to the fence to stop the sled travel. It is a piece of wood where I drilled a 1/8" hole an inch or so deep. I then insert a wood screw part of the way in. I clamp this to the fence or cutoff miter gauge. I can adjust the stop by loosing or tightening the screw. Cheap and simple is my motto! Malcolm / Kentucky

 

Another approach is not to use a track. I try to find the simplest method. Here is a photo of how a micro adjustable stop block that I use on the table saw for cut offs, stops on the router table and I can attach it to the fence to stop the sled travel. It is a piece of wood where I drilled a 1/8" hole an inch or so deep. I then insert a wood screw part of the way in. I clamp this to the fence or cutoff miter gauge. I can adjust the stop by loosing or tightening the screw. Cheap and simple is my motto! Malcolm / Kentucky

Hmmm...I like your idea. I just might adapt it to my table saw sled setup.

 

The only problem with the screw is when cutting thin boards - which I seldom do. But I have several blocks with a screw that are different length boards so I can clamp the adjustment board. Some of my sleds have a plexiglass strip over the blade so I can't get a clamp under the plexiglass. If I am cutting a lid for a box and I want it to fit perfectly, the screw adjustment is the only way to go.

 

This is what I came up with. It works great and any length of board will work as well as no Ttrack to buy or mess with. Just slip the stop block over your existing sled, tablesaw fence, drill press, fence, shaper fence and crank it down it won't budge. Dumas5000 on youtube gave me the idea and I modified it a tad. It takes 12 minutes to cut them out on a CNC machine. Great stop blocks. Here is the link to the youtube video and the links to download are down in the description. Vcarve will allow you to edit the files if you want to make changes!

 

When you say a cross-cut sled what are you thinking about?

 

Hi,
I’m building a crosscut sled and am getting ready to install a t-track into the fence so I can use a stop block on the sled. This will be the first time I’m using my router table and I wanted to check in on the procedure to do so.

The info on Peachtree says the t track is 7/8” wide and 5/8” deep. So my plan was going to be:

1. use a ¾” inch straight bit and cut a 3/4” groove 1/8” deep.
2. Move the fence over 1/8” and cut a 1/8” deep groove
3. Lower the bit in 1/8” increments and repeat steps 1 and 2 until I get to 5/8”

Is that the best way to do this? Seems like a lot of moving the bit/fence and I know the fit has to be pretty dead on to fit the track.

Any tips?

Thanks!
Nathan

I don't use the router for cutting grooves for T-Tracks. I used the standard saw blade on my table saw. I can move the fence in 1,000" increment. So I just cut a groove, move the fence about the thickness of the blade until I get the groove almost wide enough. Then move the fence over in tiny increments until I get the width that I like. Malcolm / Kentucky USA