Not quite woodworking, but how do you cut plexiglass? Would a jigsaw do it?
Can plexiglass or acrylic be cut on a router? Would that take a special bit?
Not quite woodworking, but how do you cut plexiglass? Would a jigsaw do it?
Can plexiglass or acrylic be cut on a router? Would that take a special bit?
I had good luck, after trying various blades, by putting in an old dull metal cutting blade in my band saw. Have had decent luck with the router too, slow the speed down to avoid melting the plexi or acrylic material.
Hope this helps........
steveo
Suggest a fine tooth band saw blade. Another suggestion leave the backing paper on till completing the cut. Some times helps to use masking tape along the cut line.
Drick, You can get a very clean cut on Plexiglas using your router. No special bit is required. Any single direction saw with fine teeth will cut Plexiglas too. Avoid trying a recipricating blade saw, this will almost always end up cracking your piece.
I have cut irregular shapes with a scroll saw. If I am cutting rectangular shapes, I just score it with a utility knife and snap it in to. Works for me.
I asked that question at a woodworking show. The answer I got was to place duct tape on the bottom of the cutline. It keeps the plastic from melting back together. I've done this a lot now on my scrollsaw and with a jig saw. Blade or speed don't matter too much.
The tablesaw blade that we use at the shop has a negative rake on it to keep from chipping out the plexi. when I am cutting oversize pieces I use a router and a guide.
Use a carbide router bit.
Most of the time I bought Acrylic (Plexi Glass) or Polycarbonate (Lexan) the plastic supply house cut it on a table saw. However the coolest way to cut either material was when I was working for a Laser & Water Jet place where we were cutting it with a computer controled machine that could slice and dice a 4x8 sheet into just about any shape imaginable in minutes. We cut everything from 1/4" high letters to as large as 4' ones for outdoor advertising along with artsy type stuff like parts for mobiles out of colored sheet. Best part with the laser cutting there is little or no post cutting finish to do the edges come out clear and smooth. I still have a letter stand I made (goverment job) that the base is a blank check made of 3/8" clear with lettering cut through, and three slotted uprights to divide the bills, letters etc. also with cutout lettering in opaque blue 1/8 sheet. I also made a over the sink cutting board out of 1/2" that fit into the rim of the stainless sink and has a cutout for running the water through.
I have to think those router table inserts and clear bases are probably laser cut unless they are custom molded. Pretty pricey for one or two pieces with set-up fees but if you need 25 or so pieces cut it would be worth looking into. Alas I no longer work there or I know I would be making some custom base and ski attachments.
Hey Bob, Yeah if you look at the teeth on the blade they lean back which is the negative rake. It won't grab and pull so much in plastics or metal. It just depends on how much cutting someone has to do and if they want to invest the money.
Yep, the same and if you want a smooth cut off edge on wood give the Freud blade a try out...smooooooooooth without any fuzz so to speak..I sometimes rip small parts with it and I like the long scraps that come off the wood no other blade I have will do that ...almost like using a hand plane on it ...
Here's just one more tip, pickup a can of AceTone from HD and wipe the edge of the plastic with it , it will melt the edge just a bit and give it a nice clear edge..
For large pieces and straight cuts, I sandwich the plexi between two 1/8" pieces of masonite(hardboard) and cut it with my table saw or mitersaw. . If I am cutting shapes, I place masking tape or duct tape on both sides of the cut and use my scroll saw.
Here is a project that I cut from mirrored plexi.
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