I need ten wooden shelf brackets. Here's my plan: make a template of 1/4 hardboard. Put 3/8 upcut spiral in table. tape template to 10"X10" piece of 3/4" pine. Feed wood/template into bit and cut the pieces that way,rather than using a scroll or jig saw. Am I okay?
Cutting shelf brackets on table?
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Hi Birch
You may want to use a trim router bit in place of the upcut bit and maybe make a quick jig like the one below.
Envelope Jig
http://routerworkshop.com/envelopejig.html
Or you can install a brass guide in the router plate and do it the same way and use the upcut bit but the skew trim bit will give you a nice clean edge, no sanding the norm.
Then use the band saw/jig saw and trim the parts with in a 1/8" of the template and then put in on the router table and all the brackets will all come out just the same.
Bj
You may want to use a trim router bit in place of the upcut bit and maybe make a quick jig like the one below.
Envelope Jig
http://routerworkshop.com/envelopejig.html
Or you can install a brass guide in the router plate and do it the same way and use the upcut bit but the skew trim bit will give you a nice clean edge, no sanding the norm.
Then use the band saw/jig saw and trim the parts with in a 1/8" of the template and then put in on the router table and all the brackets will all come out just the same.
Bj
Joined
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2,392 Posts
I agree with both of you...
I would make the template / pattern, place on workpiece, mark it out with pencil, cut within 1/8" of the line with band saw, (maybe tape a few together)... tape template back on & route, etc.
Roundover, etc. too...
You could get fancy like Bob & Rick do... and build a little carrier for the template with hold-down clamps for the workpiece... then each piece is just a 'snap' away!
You'll do it just fine... you have the right idea...
Let us see what you ended up with... OK?
I would make the template / pattern, place on workpiece, mark it out with pencil, cut within 1/8" of the line with band saw, (maybe tape a few together)... tape template back on & route, etc.
Roundover, etc. too...
You could get fancy like Bob & Rick do... and build a little carrier for the template with hold-down clamps for the workpiece... then each piece is just a 'snap' away!
You'll do it just fine... you have the right idea...
Let us see what you ended up with... OK?
Sorry fellas, I didn't make myself clear. I KNOW how to cut pieces with band saw/jig saw and THEN run w/template and trim bit. What I am wondering is, can a guy just CUT the piece, from 3/4 pine, using a pattern, temp.guide and 3/8" upcut spiral bit mounted in the table. Okay? You've got the bit sticking up, through the brass guide. You start with an 8" X 8" piece of pine. Use a starting pin or pointer to get the wood ON the bit and then cut the piece. See what I mean? ONE cut, bam! Done! Then roundover, sand. Cut TEN, round TEN, quick sand TEN and DONE! Beer time! My thought is that by using the 3/8 spiral I am going to get a nice clean cut to begin with.
Hi Birch
Yes, you can do it that way. BUT it's hard on the bit cutting 3/4" pine in one pass, pine can be nasty because of the pitch in pine.
It will warm the bit up, watch the bit if you see it turning blue stop. and let it cool down
You are making a 24" long pass so to speak.
You are using a 40.oo bit (the norm) to some make brackets.
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I have a jig that I made to do just what you are doing if you want to see a snapshot of it just ask and I will post it, the brackets I make using the siding dovetail so you can't see how they stay in place. (hidden) in the shelft and the back board or I put key holes into the brackets to hang them on the wall.
Bj
Yes, you can do it that way. BUT it's hard on the bit cutting 3/4" pine in one pass, pine can be nasty because of the pitch in pine
.It will warm the bit up, watch the bit if you see it turning blue stop.
and let it cool down You are making a 24" long pass so to speak.
You are using a 40.oo bit (the norm) to some make brackets.
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I have a jig that I made to do just what you are doing if you want to see a snapshot of it just ask and I will post it, the brackets I make using the siding dovetail so you can't see how they stay in place. (hidden) in the shelft and the back board or I put key holes into the brackets to hang them on the wall.
Bj
Joined
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2,392 Posts
Yep, it will warm up a bit... ( punn intended)
That's the reason for using the bandsaw... to make it easier on the bit.
punn intended)That's the reason for using the bandsaw... to make it easier on the bit.
Okay guys. Got it. I don't have a band saw so will use a scroll or jig saw. Just gonna take longer. But then, what the hell....my schedule is pretty open for the next week!!
Thanks. I will report back. I will be able to work better now that the ten stitches are out of my finger.
I sent the guy an email and demanded my money back, saying he was selling dangerous tools!! Ha!! Actually, a very nice Hen &Rooster lockback knife. Pretty good stuff.
Thanks. I will report back. I will be able to work better now that the ten stitches are out of my finger.
I sent the guy an email and demanded my money back, saying he was selling dangerous tools!! Ha!! Actually, a very nice Hen &Rooster lockback knife. Pretty good stuff.
Hi Birch
Here's a snapshot or two of what my jig looks like, plus what the shelf brackets look like.
Once you make the base jig you can add just about anything you want to it, for a new pattern like in picture number 1 and 3 top.
I use that for making feet for cabinets.
The base jig is the 1st and the 4th picture on the bottom row.
Bj
Just a one more jig to put in/on the dovetails and slots ▼
http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/3847-sliding-dovetail-jig.html#post37175
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Safety story by Birch ▼
http://www.routerforums.com/general-routing/4403-safety-story.html#post41671
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Here's a snapshot or two of what my jig looks like, plus what the shelf brackets look like.
Once you make the base jig you can add just about anything you want to it, for a new pattern like in picture number 1 and 3 top.
I use that for making feet for cabinets.
The base jig is the 1st and the 4th picture on the bottom row.
Bj
Just a one more jig to put in/on the dovetails and slots ▼
http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/3847-sliding-dovetail-jig.html#post37175
---------------
Safety story by Birch ▼
http://www.routerforums.com/general-routing/4403-safety-story.html#post41671
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Attachments
Bob,that is without doubt the best post from you since I joined this forum,photographs of actual work performed (especially good quality ones) are so much more useful and interesting than just links, I'm sure the latter are required SOMETIMES but not as the norm. I now feel confident that I will be able to make some very neat shelf brackets in the future. I hope you have now created a precedent! Harry
Thanks Harry
You may want to check out the show and tell and the jig items on the forum, I do post some in there but not all, someone pulls my chain and I post them at that point or to say at the question.
But I do use links all the time...
Give a man a fish and he will eat for a day.
Teach a man to fish and he will eat for the rest of his life.
-- Chinese proverb --
BJ
You may want to check out the show and tell and the jig items on the forum, I do post some in there but not all, someone pulls my chain and I post them at that point or to say at the question.
But I do use links all the time...
Give a man a fish and he will eat for a day.
Teach a man to fish and he will eat for the rest of his life.
-- Chinese proverb --
BJ
Thanks Greg
I hope you and others can use it ,,,it's a easy one to make and can do so many projects, i.e. just by making a new pattern and poping it in place and use the wood blocks to hold it in place, it will also do thick stock (1 1/2") by just changing the carr.bolts to longer one.
To make feet for a cabinet(s) ,they are always hard to do on the band saw but with the jig you can make them quick and easy and they will all be the same.
I use crown molding most of the time ,cut it to size,then put it in the jig and then cut the ends to a 45deg. and glue them up.
I will post a snapshot of one or two that I have made.
Bj
I hope you and others can use it
,,,it's a easy one to make and can do so many projects, i.e. just by making a new pattern and poping it in place and use the wood blocks to hold it in place, it will also do thick stock (1 1/2") by just changing the carr.bolts to longer one.To make feet for a cabinet(s) ,they are always hard to do on the band saw but with the jig you can make them quick and easy
and they will all be the same. I use crown molding most of the time ,cut it to size,then put it in the jig and then cut the ends to a 45deg. and glue them up.
I will post a snapshot of one or two that I have made.
Bj
Attachments
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2,392 Posts
Bobj,
I like the way you and Tom zero'd in on making sliding Dovetail Pins...
... but it looks like one jig per workpiece width...(??)
There has to be a better way...
I like the way you and Tom zero'd in on making sliding Dovetail Pins...
... but it looks like one jig per workpiece width...(??)
There has to be a better way...
Hi Joe
Pins
You can make more than one at a time by clamping them up, lets say 4 or more.
(6 works best when you only need 4 brackets) ,together as a pack, then put them on end and pass them over the dovetail bit, this will do two boards at one time but it's tricky setup,it takes a spacer between the boards the norm, it works great for 1" thick stock without the spacer.
The dovetail bit will go down the center of the 2 boards and put one side of the dovetail pin on each board on each pass then move the fence back just a bit and make one more pass, when your done you will have 4 boards with dovetail pins.
This is a quick way but again it's tricky setup because most stock is not always the same thickness (once you put in a spacers) and .002" is a big deal when it comes to dovetails.
Bj
Pins
You can make more than one at a time by clamping them up, lets say 4 or more.
(6 works best when you only need 4 brackets) ,together as a pack, then put them on end and pass them over the dovetail bit, this will do two boards at one time but it's tricky setup,it takes a spacer between the boards the norm, it works great for 1" thick stock without the spacer.
The dovetail bit will go down the center of the 2 boards and put one side of the dovetail pin on each board on each pass
then move the fence back just a bit and make one more pass, when your done you will have 4 boards with dovetail pins.This is a quick way but again it's tricky setup because most stock is not always the same thickness (once you put in a spacers) and .002" is a big deal when it comes to dovetails.
Bj
Joined
·
2,392 Posts
Yes Bob, it's that "tricky" messin around part I don't like...
There must be a better way...
There must be a better way...
Hi Joe
Now you have sometihing to think about when you are trying to go to sleep
Counting sheep gets old, and who knows you just may come up with a better way and make some big bucks $$$$$ at the same time.
The best show on TV is HOW-IT'S-MADE, I look forward to seeing your machine on that program.
Pie are Sq. NOPE pie are round
Bj
Bj
Now you have sometihing to think about when you are trying to go to sleep
Counting sheep gets old, and who knows you just may come up with a better way and make some big bucks $$$$$ at the same time.
The best show on TV is HOW-IT'S-MADE, I look forward to seeing your machine on that program
.Pie are Sq. NOPE pie are round
Bj
Bj
Joined
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2,392 Posts
Not a 'machine'... just a GOOD jig...
Tom's sketches look pretty good for a 'base' from which to work.
OK... back to sleep... ZZZZZZZZ Z Z Z Z Z Z zzzzzzzz z z z z z z z .......
Tom's sketches look pretty good for a 'base' from which to work.
OK... back to sleep... ZZZZZZZZ Z Z Z Z Z Z zzzzzzzz z z z z z z z .......
Hi Joe
If you get a chance to view the RWS Episode(s) below, it will show Bob and Rick the pros. make the same type of table as Tom's ,with sliding dovetails.
I think it did air on the http://www.thewoodworkingchannel.com/ because it's old episode but it's a good one.
Or
Individual plans can be purchased by selecting the links below, the project book is also available for this series.
207 - 208 Two Part - Curved Leg Table:
In episode #207 Bob shows you his tin can geometry to lay out and cut circles and curves with your router.
Both are used to produce the top of an attractive end table.
In show #208 Bob uses the same techniques to produce a curved leg pattern fixture to pattern cut four identical legs.
The hosts use the dovetail joint to fasten the legs to the top.
207. Curved Leg Table, Part 1 Table top
208. Curved Leg Table, Part 2 Tapered Legs
http://www.routerworkshop.com/S200.html
Bj
If you get a chance to view the RWS Episode(s) below, it will show Bob and Rick the pros. make the same type of table as Tom's ,with sliding dovetails.
I think it did air on the http://www.thewoodworkingchannel.com/ because it's old episode but it's a good one.
Or
Individual plans can be purchased by selecting the links below, the project book is also available for this series.
207 - 208 Two Part - Curved Leg Table:
In episode #207 Bob shows you his tin can geometry to lay out and cut circles and curves with your router.
Both are used to produce the top of an attractive end table.
In show #208 Bob uses the same techniques to produce a curved leg pattern fixture to pattern cut four identical legs.
The hosts use the dovetail joint to fasten the legs to the top.
207. Curved Leg Table, Part 1 Table top
208. Curved Leg Table, Part 2 Tapered Legs
http://www.routerworkshop.com/S200.html
Bj
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