Are most dado cuts made in one pass? Like on a table saw.
notfishing
"Are most dado cuts made in one pass? Like on a table saw".
It depends on three things.
1) The depth and width of the dado
2) The routers power (A 3 1/2 HP vs a 1HP, cut differently)
3) The particular bit you are using.(Is it sharp and/or a better quality bit, what is the bits cutting depth?)
I should have said 4, yes the material matters too!
It depends on three things.
1) The depth and width of the dado
2) The routers power (A 3 1/2 HP vs a 1HP, cut differently)
3) The particular bit you are using.(Is it sharp and/or a better quality bit, what is the bits cutting depth?)
I should have said 4, yes the material matters too!
Hi Larry,
It all depends on the type and thickness of the wood. Also, the depth of the cut being made. Most generally, yes.
It all depends on the type and thickness of the wood. Also, the depth of the cut being made. Most generally, yes.
I've read (and I'm trying to practice this rule) that if the cut is going to be more than about 1/8" deep, then make it in more than one pass.
However this is not a hard and fast rule. #2 pine you might be able to go deeper like 1/4". White oak, probably no deeper than 1/8" at a pass, etc. Also depends a little bit on the type of bit and its cutting quality. A straight flute job will tend to pack the dust and chips a little bit behind the bit. An up-cut spiral tends to pull them out while a down-cut will try and pack them under the bit. However a down-cut will generally make neater edges on the dado so you make trade offs and maybe have to take more shallower passes.
I'm sure some of the guys like BobJ, Mike, Harry and the rest will chime in with good suggestions. They have a lot more time behind the trigger than I do. But I'm answering these sort of posts as a way of re-enforcing in my mind what I'm learning.
However this is not a hard and fast rule. #2 pine you might be able to go deeper like 1/4". White oak, probably no deeper than 1/8" at a pass, etc. Also depends a little bit on the type of bit and its cutting quality. A straight flute job will tend to pack the dust and chips a little bit behind the bit. An up-cut spiral tends to pull them out while a down-cut will try and pack them under the bit. However a down-cut will generally make neater edges on the dado so you make trade offs and maybe have to take more shallower passes.
I'm sure some of the guys like BobJ, Mike, Harry and the rest will chime in with good suggestions. They have a lot more time behind the trigger than I do. But I'm answering these sort of posts as a way of re-enforcing in my mind what I'm learning.
If I only took an 1/8" off on every pass I would go broke(unless it is a fine inlay with an 1/8" bit).
I submit that if you can not plow out at least a 1/4" per pass get a bigger router and better bit, irregardless of the material.
Heck my Milwaukee will plow out a 1/2" deep dado in one pass in White Oak easily using my Whiteside bits
I submit that if you can not plow out at least a 1/4" per pass get a bigger router and better bit, irregardless of the material.
Heck my Milwaukee will plow out a 1/2" deep dado in one pass in White Oak easily using my Whiteside bits
Like I said, it isn't a hard and fast rule. But I can imagine a too-deep cut peeling off the carbide from the bit (assuming it isn't a solid carbide bit), big $$$ bit or eBay special. I'd rather take a few extra passes than spend time extracting bits of metal from things that shouldn't have bits of metal in them or scrape down profiles with burn marks becase I tried to feed too much or re-mill a part because the wood flexed out of the way of the bit and so on and so on.
That said, you are right, it is possible to cut deeper than 1/8" on a pass. I was doing mortises (1 1/2 deep by 3/8 wide) the other evening and with 4 legs and 4 per that is 16 to cut. First couple I went pretty slow at 1/8" per pass but I quickly learned that with this particular batch of wood I could cut the 1 1/2" depth in four passes with a pause after the first 2 to vacuum out the waste.
YMMV
That said, you are right, it is possible to cut deeper than 1/8" on a pass. I was doing mortises (1 1/2 deep by 3/8 wide) the other evening and with 4 legs and 4 per that is 16 to cut. First couple I went pretty slow at 1/8" per pass but I quickly learned that with this particular batch of wood I could cut the 1 1/2" depth in four passes with a pause after the first 2 to vacuum out the waste.
YMMV
Hi notfishing
This just my 2 cents
Almost always,,, you are only goiing down to a max of 3/8" max the norm..
But the smaller the bit the shallower cut, lets take a 3/4" bit no big deal to cut down 3/8" deep...but a 1/8" bit and I don't know why you want to use a 1/8" anyway it should go 3/16" deep on each pass but it's a good beat it will break...on the 2nd pass...or 3rd. pass for a 3/8" deep slot..
it's not the angle of the dangle it's the squeeze play on the bit that will brake most 1/8" bits
Think slot cutter/table saw for the small slots/dado's
=======...
This just my 2 cents
Almost always,,, you are only goiing down to a max of 3/8" max the norm..
But the smaller the bit the shallower cut, lets take a 3/4" bit no big deal to cut down 3/8" deep...but a 1/8" bit and I don't know why you want to use a 1/8" anyway it should go 3/16" deep on each pass but it's a good beat it will break...on the 2nd pass...or 3rd. pass for a 3/8" deep slot..
it's not the angle of the dangle it's the squeeze play on the bit that will brake most 1/8" bits
Think slot cutter/table saw for the small slots/dado's
=======...
1/8" bits snap easily and the only reason to use them in my opinion is if you need a channel an 1/8" on the face of a piece. I always use the largest bit I can for any application..
An 1/8" bit is good if you are doing template work where a bigger bit(and its bushing or guide) will not fit into a tight detail of the negative image template because of the larger radius of a bigger bit(bushing or guide). Even when I use the 1/8" bit I always use a second router to route out areas, usually with a 1/4" or even 1/2" bit if I can. It faster and I get a lot more use out of the 1/8" bit this way.
An 1/8" bit is good if you are doing template work where a bigger bit(and its bushing or guide) will not fit into a tight detail of the negative image template because of the larger radius of a bigger bit(bushing or guide). Even when I use the 1/8" bit I always use a second router to route out areas, usually with a 1/4" or even 1/2" bit if I can. It faster and I get a lot more use out of the 1/8" bit this way.
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