[bobj3]

Dado Jig

We have all seen many jigs to put in a dado for shelft(s) in a book case or cabinets.

Most have two boards that hold the router in place,from moving from side to side, like the one Norm made on his show most will jam when you push the router up the tack .
This one will Not jam because in runs on the brass guide that is true unlike most base plates on the router base.
They stamp out the base plate and it's not a true machined part.
This jig will take that error out and you will get a true slot,right on the button every time.
You can make a quick guide to use with this jig with 1/2" MDF and a dado slot and 3/4" plywood cut off stock to hold the spacer guide from one slot to the other.
In that way you will get a slot every 12" or what every you want it to be.

We all know that plywood is not a true size that's to say that 3/4" plywood is 23/32" and we need to use the right bit size to get it to fit right,same with 1/2" and 1/4" plywood.

I try and make most of the book cases or cabinets 11 3/4" wide so I can put the slot in both at the same time and then split the 24" plywood and end up with both sides that are dead on.
Then use a face frame to cover the plywood ends and to hold the shelf sq. and add support to the shelf ,with a T & G bits you can put a slot in the shelf and the face frame.
T & G bits ,set it to cut 1/4" deep on all slots.
You can also use the T & G bits to make a 1/4" spline that's 7/16" wide and it's dead on 1/4" thick and it will work great to hold the shelf and face frame as one.

I have put a link or two for the bits you need to use and the bits you need to make the jig and the brass guide, It true that Harbor Freight has a better price on the brass guide set, but it will not come with the 1" O.D. one you need to use for 3/4" plywood and this jig.

http://www.grizzly.com for the bits and brass guide kit.

Plywood bits H5559 and H5558 at a good price
1" bit 1/2" shank C1017 also a good price
Brass Guide Set H3134 it's bit high in price BUT has the 1" guide you need.

If you need more info please ask

Plus some other snapshots of jigs, see below ▼
NOTE*** drawing below/plans

http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/4371-details-dado-jig-please.html#post41464
http://www.routerforums.com/98654-post3.html

Bj

Snapshots are out of order sorry about that, out of my control.

 

[bobj3]

Hi Paul
The plywood is going the way of the candy bar getting smaller and smaller if they can save 1/32 of stock when they make the plywood they can many more and still charge the the same price.
At some point they will need to tell you and I that the stock is unsize that's to say it's not 3/4" it's not 23/32" but now it's 22/32" and next week it maybe 21/32" I see no end to this.
Just as a side note, they are building some new homes down the road and I stopped by to just have a look see, the roofing plywood was marked 5/8" chip board but it looked like 1/2" T & G to me and when the roofer was putting on the roof it bent like 1/2 " on 16" centers when he walked on it.
And the new homes are 450,000.oo not cheap homes.
I recall when a 2 x 4 was a 2 x 4 but now days....well ,the way of the 5 cents candy bar.
And I think that's why the MDF and the WoodStalk will take over the plywood sales.
For one thing when you and I buy 3/4" MDF it's 3/4".
And when you and I buy 3/4" WoodStalk straw veneer it's 3/4" so you may want to stay away from veneer plywood.

Bj

 

[bobj3]

Hi Paul
You can use a 5/8" router bit (or a 1/2" one if you don't have a 5/8" bit) and just move the jig over just a bit and reclamp it down.
This is what I would do to fix this type of error, make the 1st 5/8" slot then clamp a setup block down, then unclamp the jig and put a metal ruler (on it's side) that's about 1/32" thick, right next (in front) of the setup block then reclamp the jig down and make the 2nd pass.

Bj

 

[bobj3]

Just some links and info on Woodstalk
--------------
http://www.routerforums.com/showthread.php?t=1941
http://www.dow.com/bioprod/buy.htm
http://news.dow.com/prodbus/2005/20051115a.htm
http://www.valuecreatedreview.com/wheatboard.htm
http://www.petitiononline.com/wboard/petition.html
http://sweets.construction.com/mfg/55264/P38915.htm
-----------------------

Bj

 

[bobj3]

Hi Rusty

I also get the MDF stock from H.D. like Michael, in comes in 1/8",1/4",1/2",5/8",3/4",1" and with luck 1 1/4" but it's hard to get the full 4' x 8' in the all sizes, like Michael I look in the precut bin for what I want or need I also get it from a sign supply company they carrier the full 4 x 8 in stock for sign painters, it's a bit higher in price but it's 4 x 8 when I need to use a full one.
I like the MDF stock it can be used in so many ways because you don't need to worry about the grain directions and you and I can used it all up for so many projects unlike the normal wood boards we get from trees.

Like you I have started to use laminate flooring in some of my projects it's flat ,it comes prefinished,and strong for it's size, and smoooooooth .

Brass Guides, I got the bug from Bob and Rick (RWS) when I saw all the items they made using brasss guides and templets , it's easy to make one of anything but to make a pair or make two or more of the same that's the hard part when it comes to using the router or any other machine but the brass guides take care of that one easy.

Tally , just made some fishing lures that blew me away with some help of the members of this fourm he did a great job using the brass guides and a jig, I didn't think you could do that with router but it just goes to show you and I how versatile the router is when we use the guides.


http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/2072-bull-nose-help-please.html
http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/2072-bull-nose-help-please-9.html#post31487

Have a great weekend
Bj

 

[bobj3]

Hi Tony

Yes ,you can use the jig the same way as the Rockler one,you just need to add a fence out of a true 2 x 4 and put in the brass guide in the router table.. you will need to make the jig a little bit wider and add some slots for the hold downs..with a tee slot bit.
Plus it will only cost just a buck or two for the stock..unlike the Rockler one for 120.oo dollars..

Router Table Crosscut Sled - Rockler Woodworking Tools

=======

Dado Jig

We have all seen many jigs to put in a dado for shelft(s) in a book case or cabinets.

Most have two boards that hold the router in place,from moving from side to side, like the one Norm made on his show most will jam when you push the router up the tack .
This one will Not jam because in runs on the brass guide that is true unlike most base plates on the router base.
They stamp out the base plate and it's not a true machined part.
This jig will take that error out and you will get a true slot,right on the button every time.
You can make a quick guide to use with this jig with 1/2" MDF and a dado slot and 3/4" plywood cut off stock to hold the spacer guide from one slot to the other.
In that way you will get a slot every 12" or what every you want it to be.

We all know that plywood is not a true size that's to say that 3/4" plywood is 23/32" and we need to use the right bit size to get it to fit right,same with 1/2" and 1/4" plywood.

I try and make most of the book cases or cabinets 11 3/4" wide so I can put the slot in both at the same time and then split the 24" plywood and end up with both sides that are dead on.
Then use a face frame to cover the plywood ends and to hold the shelf sq. and add support to the shelf ,with a T & G bits you can put a slot in the shelf and the face frame.
T & G bits ,set it to cut 1/4" deep on all slots.
You can also use the T & G bits to make a 1/4" spline that's 7/16" wide and it's dead on 1/4" thick and it will work great to hold the shelf and face frame as one.

I have put a link or two for the bits you need to use and the bits you need to make the jig and the brass guide, It true that Harbor Freight has a better price on the brass guide set, but it will not come with the 1" O.D. one you need to use for 3/4" plywood and this jig.

Grizzly.com® -- Home for the bits and brass guide kit.

Plywood bits H5559 and H5558 at a good price
1" bit 1/2" shank C1017 also a good price
Brass Guide Set H3134 it's bit high in price BUT has the 1" guide you need.

If you need more info please ask

Plus some other snapshots of jigs, see below ▼
NOTE*** drawing below/plans

http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/4371-details-dado-jig-please.html#post41464
Router Forums - View Single Post - Dado Jig

Bj

Snapshots are out of order sorry about that, out of my control.

 

[bobj3]

Hi Goldglv

Just pop in a 1" router bit in your router table and drop the board on the bit,,the fence will keep it running true.

If you want to go the extra mile use a wider board and put in two more slots ( 3/8" bolt size ) for a fence and hold downs..
Doing the extra steps you can use the jig on the router to put in dado slots on a 45 deg. a angle

======
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=22009&filter=router table crosscut

=========

========

I've read this post from start to finish, I apologize if I'm missing something. I like BJ's jig and would like to try and build it but I didn't see any instructions on HOW to build it. How do you cut the STRAIGHT 1" hole in the middle of the jig? Do you need some other type of guide to cut it straight? Sorry, just a little confused. Thanks....

 

[bobj3]

No router table LOL no big deal

You can clamp two boards to the board you want to put the slot in ,,like side runners for the out side of the router base plate, then drop and slot..

Note the clamps ( 4 or 6 )should hold it up and off the work bench so you should not need some scrap stock under the board..

If you don't get it dead on it's OK because ,you can use the stop/start block on the end of the jig to make it a true 90 deg. to the slot...

=======

Bob,

Thanks for responding. Just have one issue....don't have a router table....any suggestions? Thanks again....

 

[bobj3]

Hi

True, but the bit is ,just put the router at one end of your clamp down boards and then the other end then do it one more time just to make sure it will let the router slide by easy and not hang up and then do it one more time when your sure fire up the router and plunge in and run the pass..


======


===========

So to make the groove I would be using the base of the router as my guide? Even though it MAY NOT be perfectly proportional? I'm obviously a novie, sorry for all the questions....

 

[bobj3]

Hi

correct?, yes

==========

I do have the brass fittings you spoke of earlier, I would just use my router to create a 1" groove so I could use my brass fitting as a guide, correct?

Just like you said, start at one side, then start at the opposite side....this will get me a straight 1" groove?

 

[bobj3]

Hi Dave

No, it's not a plunge bit but it will do the job but you can order a 1" plunge bit from MLCS..

MLCS plunge cutting straight router bits

jUST a note the 1" bit you will use it over and over for many jigs, once you see how well this type of jig works..

All that's needed is a slot and the guide in the router table and you can do many things on the router table easy and safe..i.e. your own box joint jig..that can be use it to put in 1/8" to 3/4" box joints..and all done for peanuts..not to say anything about making you your own pocket hole jig that can be used on the router table and aging for peanuts..

=========
http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/2470-pocket-hole-jig-router-table.html
=========

That 1" grizzly bit you mentioned, C1017 doesnt look like it is plunge-able? Is it? I probably only will ever need 1 1" bit, i better make sure to get the right one

 

[bobj3]

Hi Dave

Your Welcome

=====

Very cool. Thanks bob!