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Discussion Starter #1
Is it safe to set up a stack to cut the tongue in one pass, using a spacer between the outer cutters? I'm thinking a 1/4''tongue, using what as a spacer (plus the shims as necessary for a proper fit?
Washers?

We're not talking about removing a lot of material from a 3/4"thick board. Maybe 1/4" x1/4" on either side of the tongue.
 

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The old Sears molding heads which I think were actually Delta Rockwell heads came with a very thick spacer that you had to put on in order to move the head away from the arbor enough that the 1" wide molding cutters wouldn't strike the frame. It is about the same diameter as as the blade washer. I don't see why you couldn't and I've thought a few times about trying to set up a shaft with circular saw blades and spacers that could cut a finger joint in one pass. Some of the old sawmill gang saws used the same idea to make 2" lumber. They maybe still do. I don't know if there is better technology for that yet or not. They used the head rig to make a cant and shoved the cant through the gang saw. That may be how they got the nickname spaghetti mills.

The only problem I see with using regular washers is that the hole for a 5/8" bolt is pretty sloppy so the washer would sit off center on an arbor and would be a little out of balance. Enough to matter? i don't know. If you had that spacer from a molding head it would be close to the right size. Sears did have tongue and groove cutters for that head. I have one and Corob cutter still makes them and cutter sets and they interchange with mine. $17 a set last I looked.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hmmmm....more tools. ;)
Trouble is I want to cut all this WR Cedar soffit material tomorrow. OK; yup, procrastination is an option. LOL!
 

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Dan, if you need to do it right away, set up your stack to cut 1/4", run the board through with the stack against a sacrificial fence then turn it 180 and run it through again. Assuming the board is actually 3/4" you'll be left with a 1/4" tongue.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Nick; not one board...80 boards. hence my question about doing it in one pass. (80 x 8'=640 lin.' or 1,280 lin.' if I do two passes)
 

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Nick; not one board...80 boards. hence my question about doing it in one pass. (80 x 8'=640 lin.' or 1,280 lin.' if I do two passes)

"I see", said the blind man to his deaf dog...

Now if we could come up with a way to cut it down to 320' lin, would that be "half-pass"...? >:)
 

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If you have the box cutter set, it would be easy. Another thought would be to use smaller circular saw blades as spacers. You are only cutting 3/8" height. Even 5//8 flat washers or fender washers should work.
Or a straight bit on the router table like Nick suggested, 2 passes. Or 4 passes on a table saw 2 flat , 2 vertical.

If you do it with one pass, make sure you always have the face side to the fence,so they are consistent when you lay them up.
You could even make spacers out of tempered masonite, or other hardened material.
Herb
 

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If you can hold it vertical with tall featherboards I can't imagine it would be risky with a 1/4" cut...I would definitely use a LONG sacrificial fence to get the most out of the inside cut...and to minimize any wobble and then have to recut any...

I like Herb's idea of making your spacer...

Go for it...
 

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I like the Masonite idea. So far no one has suggested that it's a risky technique, so I'll give it a 'whirl' so to speak. 4" discs with a hole saw should give me a stable separation(?)...
What diam. Dado Stack you have? 6" or 8"? Carbide, or HSS?
The outside carbide tips are usually offset on out side cutters, so they can be reversed for different widths.
Herb
 

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Is it safe to set up a stack to cut the tongue in one pass, using a spacer between the outer cutters? I'm thinking a 1/4''tongue, using what as a spacer (plus the shims as necessary for a proper fit?
Washers?

We're not talking about removing a lot of material from a 3/4"thick board. Maybe 1/4" x1/4" on either side of the tongue.
all these years of doing just that and now sumbuddy asks about safety....
go figure...
don't forget to bring your featherboards...

you could double face cut instead of single edge cut...

why waste the material/width???...
spline...
doubled saw blades single pass on the edge...
router slot cutter... (free hand or RT)...
80x¼ = 20 face inches of width wasted...
 

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all these years of doing just that and now sumbuddy asks about safety....
go figure...
don't forget to bring your featherboards...

you could double face cut instead of single edge cut...

why waste the material/width???...
spline...
doubled saw blades single pass...
router slot cutter... (free hand)...
80x¼ = 20 face inches wasted...
Yeah that is a good idea too. Another reason foe doing the splines, when they make the tongue side the bottom edge of the tongue edge is on a slight angle so that when it is laid it tightens upon the top,and has a hairline gap on the bottom edge.
Be sure to make the toungue a tad shorter that the groove so you don't have to fight it into tightenin the crack. But you know that already, just thought I would mention it. Here is a dado video on the TS.
https://www.thesprucecrafts.com/tongue-and-groove-joinery-3536627

Are you end matching too?
Herb
 

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One of the other options on a TS is to use a shim on the fence when you do that. You make the initial cut and then add a shim that equals the blade thickness plus the tongue thickness on the second pass.
 

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Yeah that is a good idea too. Another reason for doing the splines, when they make the tongue side the bottom edge of the tongue edge is on a slight angle so that when it is laid it tightens upon the top,and has a hairline gap on the bottom edge.
Be sure to make the tongue a tad shorter that the groove so you don't have to fight it into tightening the crack. But you know that already, just thought I would mention it. Here is a dado video on the TS.

Are you end matching too?
Herb
TS 1° relief cut after slot cutting.... if you have to have one....
use a plywood strip narrower than the total depth of the matching/facing slots...
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Lots to think about...instead of actually, you know, sleeping. ;)

Bob; my T&G set is 1/2" shank and i still haven't built a RT. I do have that small RT from LV, but it's for my 1/4" trim router. Too small a table in any case. And to be honest, the TS is faster, especially if i do the spline thing. single pass on both edges plus ripping a bunch of 8' splines (160 lengths x 1"...including the kerf= 3 1/2 sheets of plywood= waaaay too much expense).

Herb; "Are you end matching too?"
No chance of that happening. :)
It's just a soffit on my tool shed; it'll be lucky if it gets stained. I walked in a couple of weeks ago and a squirrel was setting up housekeeping. I asked it nicely to leave and it said, "Not happening, Buddy."
Soffit= eviction notice.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Stick said I'm golden...
"all these years of doing just that and now sumbuddy asks about safety....
go figure...
don't forget to bring your featherboards...

:)
 

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my T&G set is 1/2" shank and i still haven't built a RT.
And to be honest, the TS is faster, especially if i do the spline thing. single pass on both edges plus ripping a bunch of 8' splines (160 lengths x 1"...including the kerf= 3 1/2 sheets of plywood= waaaay too much expense).
free hand the T&G or splines...
you have any idea how many freehand T&G'/splines I did on this project???
no table and it would have been impractical anyways...
think it out and have at it...

and no..
the TS isn't faster... VOE...

splines...
change the bearing dia...
change the depth of cut... 5/16'' will work fine... (7.5~8MM)
use 3~4MM BB or Luann for the splines..
cross cut the ply to the top veneer - highly recommended... VOE
under width the spline by 1/16~3/32'' (1.5~2.4MM) because that WRC is gonna wanna move and if the MC is way off it's gonna want to move next door...
- Radial: 2.4%, Tangential: 5.0%, Volumetric: 6.8%, T/R Ratio: 2.1...
(picture included for those that need to understand wood movement)...

.
 

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Lots to think about...

It's just a soffit on my tool shed; it'll be lucky if it gets stained.
this is something novel...

oil it w/ non film-forming finish on all 6 sides w/ your garden sprayer before you put it up...
you gonna face or blind nail it???
if you are gonna face nail it, use thinner material and ship lap...
 
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