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Lots to think about...instead of actually, you know, sleeping. ;)

Bob; my T&G set is 1/2" shank and i still haven't built a RT. I do have that small RT from LV, but it's for my 1/4" trim router. Too small a table in any case. And to be honest, the TS is faster, especially if i do the spline thing. single pass on both edges plus ripping a bunch of 8' splines (160 lengths x 1"...including the kerf= 3 1/2 sheets of plywood= waaaay too much expense).

I would rethink the spline material, Dan. Use any scrap wood you have laying around,including the cedar. The spline doesn't have to be perpendicular grain in this case, a tongue is not. You are going to be nailing every 2', it is not for strength,it is for alignment in this case. This would be the most expedient method, everything on the TS.
Do you have a slotting bit for your router to hand slot the ends? if you do that will save a lot of material too by end joining between soffit joist.
Do you need air circulation in soffit ?

Remember to give the squirrel a 30 day notice.
HErb
 

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Discussion Starter #22
He/she has been given notice! :)
Blind nailing through the tongue (nails canted back toward the board). Stick mentioned losing face width at 1/4" per board. Good point but the total loss is only 1/2 of what Stick suggested as the boards are end to end for 16'. ie for 10 boards width that's actually 16 boards, and a loss of 2 1/2" not 5".

The thing that's tipping me towards cutting tongues, in a single pass, is being able to blind nail through them instead of having to deal with splines over-head. Doing it on a floor is a whole lot simpler.
I did a recalculation of my WR Cedar, that I've already cut and planed to size, and I'm short material...*&*^&^%#!!!
Back to the mill today.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Herb; sorry, I forgot your soffit vent question. Yes; the first row at the bottom with the groove facing uphill, then vinyl vent strips with the wings inserted into the groove, then the next row of Cedar with the groove downhill picking up the other wing.
 

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He/she has been given notice! :)
Blind nailing through the tongue (nails canted back toward the board). Stick mentioned losing face width at 1/4" per board. Good point but the total loss is only 1/2 of what Stick suggested as the boards are end to end for 16'. ie for 10 boards width that's actually 16 boards, and a loss of 2 1/2" not 5".

The thing that's tipping me towards cutting tongues, in a single pass, is being able to blind nail through them instead of having to deal with splines over-head. Doing it on a floor is a whole lot simpler.
I did a recalculation of my WR Cedar, that I've already cut and planed to size, and I'm short material...*&*^&^%#!!!
Back to the mill today.
freehand the T&G's..
clamp the board down..
mill...
next...
spline the butts wherever they may break...
use your grooving bit only for this..
no tongues...
cut splines from whatever you have on hand...
 

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Discussion Starter #25
"I did a recalculation of my WR Cedar, that I've already cut and planed to size, and I'm short material...*&*^&^%#!!!
Back to the mill today."
-Me

Picked up 4 --8'-2x4 RS WR Cedar...clear straight grain.....$100Cdn. Ouch.
Beautiful stuff.
 

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"I did a recalculation of my WR Cedar, that I've already cut and planed to size, and I'm short material...*&*^&^%#!!!
Back to the mill today."
-Me

Picked up 4 --8'-2x4 RS WR Cedar...clear straight grain.....$100Cdn. Ouch.
Beautiful stuff.
I felt that all the way over here...
and you live in WRC country...
gonna resaw???
 
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Discussion Starter #27
Yes. Five slices per 2x4 ie 5/8" x 1 3/4" after planing the top and bottom.
Re the WRC logs; he buys primo logs from Haida Gwaii*, not local stuff.

* Formerly the Queen Charlotte islands, off BC's Coast.
 

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"I did a recalculation of my WR Cedar, that I've already cut and planed to size, and I'm short material...*&*^&^%#!!!
Back to the mill today."
-Me

Picked up 4 --8'-2x4 RS WR Cedar...clear straight grain.....$100Cdn. Ouch.
Beautiful stuff.

Yeow...! ...that's gonna leave a mark...:surprise:
 

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Great, now I can postpone this project til the day after never!! LOL!

...and I know exactly where it is! (*shock*)
spoken like a true retiree...
 
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I could mail you mine and you would only have to postpone it for about a week (hopefully). If you have that head then don't you have that big spacer washer I mentioned?
 

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Discussion Starter #34
???...I haven't taken it out of its box since Eisenhower was Pres. No idea what's in there; I'll check, 'cause "I know exactly where it is". :)
Right now, I have an appointment with the cute baristas at 'The Bakery' coffee shop.
 

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Great, now I can postpone this project til the day after never!! LOL!

An inspiration for all of us newly retired grasshoppers...Thank you, oh Master...! :lazy2:
 

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Given all the input, I'd go shiplap. T&G or splines is too much for soffits, especially for a retiree. Beside that, any warp in the wood will bugger up the alignment of the tongue or splines. If you want to fancy it up, roundover the edges on the face side. Shiplap is easy with a dado stack buried in the fence.

If you don't allow for air circulation you may have other problems when things turn wet. You can always use a wide spade bit to drill holes and tack a little aluminum screen material over each hole, out of sight, to keep your friendly rodent out.
 

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To many replies to read through so...

If you need tomake a spacer, why not make one out of wood the correct thickness, then use a hole cutter to cut it out. Then line it up on the drill press and drill out the center to the size of your arbor.

If you had a buddy with a 3dprinter, he could make one for you, but it might melt from the heat generated by the saw/cutting operation.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Mike; yup that's my plan. Gary mentioned the shaper head late on in the conversation; it's the perfect solution. i have one, but not the knives i need for it, so back to plan A...my original question " is it safe"? Stick and Charles told me to just do it! ;)

(i heard you guys had a bet going that I couldn't find it...)
 

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Yup...add me to the "just do it" pile...
 
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