[Drick]

Guys,

Should dadoes be cut into vertical pieces or horizontal ones or doesn't it matter?

Drick

 

[Gilbear]

Drick,
Hate to see that one's been hangin' out here for a little bit with no responses, but it might be the phrasing of the question ... at least it left me a little puzzled ... not sure if I exactly understand, but the dados themselves can run either horizontaly (to support a shelf for instance) or verticaly (i.e., to hold a divider in place) - a dado is simply a slot or grove that's cut into one piece of wood to accept another piece and form a joint, and as such, can run either direction as well as on an angle (wine rack for instance). If that missed the jist of your question, come on back and clarify a little.

 

[boxer]

I could be wrong, but it is my understanding that a dado is recess, as stated above, that is cut across the grain. A groove is a recess, for the same purpose, but cut with the grain.
Kevin

 

[reible]

I'm not to sure was was ask??? Maybe some more details would help us answer better then we have.

Boxer is correct about dado vs groove issue.

Ed

 

[Drick]

My bad

I am trying to build a bookcase using plywood. Obviously, dadoes have to be cut in the vertical sides of the case to hold the shelves. My question really has to do with the top. Is it better to cut the rabbet in the top and have it overhang the sides or to cut it in the sides and have the sides reach to the top of the top? Is there a difference in strength of the joint or of the bookcase? Or is this a matter or personal preference?

Drick

 

[BobandRick]

The dado for the top shelf should to be cut into the sides because 1) you don't expose the end grain of the top on the sides it is hidden facing to the top, 2) the dado/rabbet cut in the sides are all cut the same way for the shelves, top and bottom, and 3) for the parts list; the top will be the same size as shelves and bottom.

My 2 cents, Rick

 

[reible]

The dado for the top shelf should to be cut into the sides because 1) you don't expose the end grain of the top on the sides it is hidden facing to the top, 2) the dado/rabbet cut in the sides are all cut the same way for the shelves, top and bottom, and 3) for the parts list; the top will be the same size as shelves and bottom.

My 2 cents, Rick

I like Ricks answer but I can think of one exception. If the shelf is short and you will be seeing the top shelf you might want to make sure it is the full width of the shelf and live with a small amout of exposed grain on the sides...

Ed

 

[bobj3]

Drick

My personal preference is to use the T & G on the floor (base) and the Top and the Sides in that way all the plywood open grains are hidden in the joints. (T&G)
Then put on a Oak (?) face frame on to cover the front plywood joints and add support to the shelves.
If you are building a custon wall book shelve you want to rev. the joint on the wall side so you can trim the face frame to the wall. (most walls are not true)

I set the Groove on a off set from center ,about 1/8" or so in that way you can use pocket screws and not hit a tongue and set the pocket hole jig for 1" stock not the standard 3/4".
On the top and bottom you don't want to see any pockets screws holes from the inside of the book case.
A book case is just a cabinet without doors and drawers more or less.

Hope this helps. just my 2 cents.

 

[bobj3]

I should note this is the bit you would used to Off Set tongue, the groove would be a standard T & G set or a 1/4" slot cutter.


BJ