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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It's true you can do this on a Table Saw but it's tricky at best.
And you still need to make a jig to do it.
When you make a Face Frame (for case work) or Picture Frame longer than 14".
It's hard to keep it sq. to the fence because of the mass.
With this router jig the stock is flat and you have control of it.
One quick push and you're done and it's right on.


Bj :)

Note: I may need to add (snapshots) to this post,because it takes alot to tell you about this one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
add on

Add on snapshots
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm not pushing the lathe just some links to help ;)

Looks like Harbor Freights Lathe has gone through the roof.
But here are some links that look good.
I have had mine for about 12 years, that maybe just the way things are going now days up▲ and up▲ and up ▲.
I did not check on eBay but that's a thought.(USED)(2nd Hand).
Links below ▼

Lathe - Metal (Mini Metal Lathe)
http://www.cumminstools.com/browse.cfm/4,876.html
Sale Price: $399.99


Precision Mini Table Lathe
http://www.wttool.com/p/3003-0025?utm_id=44
Your Price $449.00


Shop Fox Mini-Lathe Metal M1015
http://gallery.bcentral.com/ProductDetails.aspx?GID=4308581&PID=4250369
Price: $341.99

8" x 12" PRECISION MINI LATHE
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=44859
$439.99

Bj :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Just a add on note :)
Once you buy a LATHE, you want to know where you can buy add on items/parts and what eles you can do with it.
How about a wooden boat with a real steam eng. and many other items, i.e. a belt sander to sharpen your fine tools. (see links beow )

I use the web site below all the time to get the items I need.
" littlemachineshop " just a pass it on tip.

Again I'm not pushing the web site just some links to help. :)

http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/products.php?category=-139540609
http://www.littlemachineshop.com/default.php?Source=Google
http://www.littlemachineshop.com/Products/products.php
http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2515
http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/products.php?category=-1402768559
http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2717

Bj :)
 

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template tom said:
Sorry Bob I for one have not been convinced how this works. This requires some more information to illustrate how it all works.
Tom
Tom,

The router bits are going to cut a Horiz. slit into the point of the frame corner in which a spline will be inserted to fortify / strengthen the corner miter joint.

Most of the jig pics are backwards... facing you instead of away from you into the router... the last 2-3 showed in the way they would be used.

Hope this helps... hope I'm correct. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hi Joe

Almost 100% right BUT no router bits just the saw blades do the work :)
Just like the table saw but it's done on the router table where you have full control and you can put the slot in stock anywhere you need it with one quick pass on the router table and all 4 corners will line up right on the button.

Bj :)
 

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As I said Bob there was no Pict to explain that the saw was to cut the external corner of the frame and therefore would be seen on all the four corners. I suppose it could me made a feature if you like that sort of thing.
Tom
 

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Tom, I will try again...

The saw blade will cut a horizontal slot into the point of the fram in the jig.
If you look closely, you can see the slot.

http://www.routerforums.com/attachments/jigs-fixtures/2235-deep-spline-slot-jigs-s5.jpg


Here, you can see a horizontal slit in the front side of the jig... this is where the saw blade is cutting and will eventually cut a slot in the pic. frame as the jig is pushed through the saw blades.
I don't know how to say any simpler than that.

http://www.routerforums.com/attachments/jigs-fixtures/2234-deep-spline-slot-jigs-s4.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Just more snapshots
 

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Bob,

That use of the small saw blades sure looks good to me... not only for spline slits, but for anytime you want a simple slot cut.

I went back where you showed how to get it together...
Bolts, I think want to be 1/4" or 1/2" for the shanks so they can fit into common collets. It looks like you're using 5/8, 3/8, etc. How can you fit them into the collets?

Also, you mention they should be Grade 5 steel... I guess we just go to local hardware store to get just any ole bolt, right? :) So, where do does one get them?

The nuts holding the blades onto the bolts... I take it that there is no confliction of thread direction whereby the nuts could be loosened during the operation, right?

I don't remember where you got the saw blades... could you please add some links to where we could the blades, as well as the bolts (if special orders required)?

Thank you.

BTW, nice pictures showing just how the jig is used for the cuts. :)

I don't have a metal lathe & don't plan on getting one. Nor do I have a wood lathe. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Hi Joe

Well you don't need to have a Lathe (see Grizzly link below) but it's nice to make your own arbors for the router. (see other links ) Arbors=I put the snapshot in to show how easy it is to make your own (arbors ) ,you can't get the long ones anywhere that I know about.

The blades I got from HD (at 12.oo dollars ea.) and Lowes has them also but I found a new place that has them a bit cheaper ,see links below. (cheap SOB I am ) :)

This jig makes it so easy to put in spline slots and it's safe because the stock is flat on the router table top so to speak, many picture frames are small and it can be tricky to hold them in a table saw jig but this one will hold just about any size safe.

Just a note about the G5 bolts .many hardware store have them, they will have 3 marks on the head,the G5 bolts can be reworked unlike the G8 that have 6 marks on the head and the bolts that have no marks on the head are called G2 it's bit to soft for router arbors,that's say it can bend if it's over loaded.
5/8" G5 bolts= If someone wants to make there own arbor they will need to start with a 5/8" dia.bolt and turn it down to 1/2" so it can be used in the router, almost all bolts are not true size,that's to say they can be rolled on threads or cut threads but they are not true dia. size.
Then once the bolt/arbor is done it will need to have new threads put on I used 3/8-24 because I had some brass nuts I wanted to used but I did use steel ones ,the norm. size is 5/16" or 8mm but I want a bigger nut.
The wrench size for a 5/16' nut is 1/2" and the 3/8 is 9/16" more torq.and holding power.

Links ▼

Blades at a great price ▼
http://cgi.ebay.com/IRWIN-MARATHON-...hZ019QQcategoryZ79708QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/IRWIN-MARATHON-...hZ019QQcategoryZ79708QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem

G1438 Slitting Saw Arbor(s) that can be used in the router
http://www.grizzly.com/products/g1438
http://www.grizzly.com/products/H5622

Bj :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hi Joe

Speed=I use the lowest speed on the router, If I recall the blades are ok to run up to 10,500 RPM but the blades are marked with the max speed they want you to spin them at.

Bj :)
 

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Bj you might want to mention the strip of backer board you used on your jig. This looks like a nice safe way to put in the slots.
 

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How about this method?

I made some picture frames to accomodate some of my 8 1/2 x 11 woodburnings. I was going to try and cut some splines in the corners but I thought of another way. I turned the frames over on the back sides and drilled a 1/2 inch hole with a forstner bit in half the depth of the frame in the center of the joined corner. I then cut and glued 1/2 inch dowels in the hole,sanded them flat after the glue dried.

Gary
 

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seawolf21 said:
I made some picture frames to accomodate some of my 8 1/2 x 11 woodburnings. I was going to try and cut some splines in the corners but I thought of another way. I turned the frames over on the back sides and drilled a 1/2 inch hole with a forstner bit in half the depth of the frame in the center of the joined corner. I then cut and glued 1/2 inch dowels in the hole,sanded them flat after the glue dried.

Gary
That's a good idea! Thank you!
 

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Bob. You have excelled yourself with the various pics, now isn't that better than referring members back to other various pages and getting them lost.
It certainly is a safe way to achieve what you set out to do and I suppose adding another piece of material to the edge would conceal the splines.
When we submit answers to questions surely it is much better to produce pics the way you have this time. This makes it very clear for all to see and understand.
Tom
 
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