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Just had a conversation with Girzzly. They make a riser block that Delta says can be fitted to a Delta 14 inch band saw. I suggested to a Grizzly agent that they have their EOM manufacturer drill the holes needed for the Delta in their part number Grizzly H3051. They don't have to put pins in, just position the holes right.

OK, the point is, if you have the Delta 14 inch saw and want to do resawing, you need this riser. So lets all contact Delta AND Grizzly and ask them to work out how to add a couple of holes to the Grizzly riser block to match the Delta. Delta would happily refer to Grizzly for the part. Almost a freebee to Grizzley.

Anyone want to write to both companies and urge them to help out a bunch of folks and make a few bucks in the process?

Heck, someone could buy the Grizz kits and drill the correct holes themselves. I'd pay a 125 bucks for pre-fitted kit like that!

OK, whose going to be first to report contacting the makers?
 

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Why Settle?

Just had a conversation with Girzzly. They make a riser block that Delta says can be fitted to a Delta 14 inch band saw. I suggested to a Grizzly agent that they have their EOM manufacturer drill the holes needed for the Delta in their part number Grizzly H3051. They don't have to put pins in, just position the holes right.

OK, the point is, if you have the Delta 14 inch saw and want to do resawing, you need this riser. So lets all contact Delta AND Grizzly and ask them to work out how to add a couple of holes to the Grizzly riser block to match the Delta. Delta would happily refer to Grizzly for the part. Almost a freebee to Grizzley.

Anyone want to write to both companies and urge them to help out a bunch of folks and make a few bucks in the process?

Heck, someone could buy the Grizz kits and drill the correct holes themselves. I'd pay a 125 bucks for pre-fitted kit like that!

OK, whose going to be first to report contacting the makers?
This is just a blatant example of the sub standard products that are being imported and sold here in the US. The reason for the drift pins is apparently to keep alignment and would greatly improve grizzly's product...not to mention the added benefit of it also working on the Delta bandsaw. American companies need to have parts available long after the sale because after all is said and done American engineered products are just better! That being said I have a delta bench top drill press that's made in china and it's as bad as anything imported. Enough rant...If you buy the riser, is it impossible to drill the pin hole yourself? I'm sure you can do it!
 

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I put that riser on a Rigid and although it fit it wasn't a good fit. In addition the 3/4 hp motor wasn't any where near enough power t to resaw.
 

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I put that riser on a Rigid and although it fit it wasn't a good fit. In addition the 3/4 hp motor wasn't any where near enough power t to resaw.
I have the same problem with my JET. Useful to know that a Powermatic riser fits the JET.
I need a source for a better motor that I can swap in.
 

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I put that riser on a Rigid and although it fit it wasn't a good fit. In addition the 3/4 hp motor wasn't any where near enough power t to resaw.
I ordered the Ridgid riser at $150. and it came with a couple of different longer guide rods and shields that I didn't use.
But my cousin has a Grizzly BS that looks identical to my Ridgid and he got the Grizzly riser for around $50.

You are correct about the motor, I replaced mine with a 1.5 hp from HF, and used the 3/4 hp for a buffer. Still the max I can saw is 8" high and taking it slow. But that is all I need anyway. Really if you are sawing anything larger or a lot of larger pieces,you need to get a larger BS.

Herb
 

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My table saw, properly set up, does a very good job of resawing up to about 6 1/2 inches by cutting one side, flipping the piece end for end and cutting the other. This works fine for most boxes. I can get 1/8th inch slices that need only slight sanding and using a wide kerf blade that doesn't deflect is even more accurate. But I'd hoped to be able to use the band saw instead to reduce the wood lost to kerf width. Oh well, I'll just have to make do for now. That the 1.5 hp motor is insufficient is a wake up. Since the Delta saw only cost $300, plus the carter roller guides, I'm going to keep it. I'm planning to keep any new saw in the garage, not the shop, so I'll have 220 available, which should really help with the resawing.
 

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The standard 14" band saws that are sold by most manufacturers, even the high end ones, are all just clones of the original Delta 14" BS that dates back to the 1940s. There is one factory (Hung Li Hsing Electric in Taiwan, I believe) that makes all the castings and builds saws for lots of companies based on their specs. I suspect the riser pin is one of the spec items. This is why from Harbor Freight to Jet (though not sure about powermatic) the 14" band saw frames are all pretty the same. The main differences are things like motors, tensioners, guides, thrust bearings and such. So, there is a high degree of interoperability there.

As to the pin issue. It would be great if some one could come up with a template (or at least a specific location) for drilling it.
 

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My table saw, properly set up, does a very good job of resawing up to about 6 1/2 inches by cutting one side, flipping the piece end for end and cutting the other. This works fine for most boxes. I can get 1/8th inch slices that need only slight sanding and using a wide kerf blade that doesn't deflect is even more accurate. But I'd hoped to be able to use the band saw instead to reduce the wood lost to kerf width. Oh well, I'll just have to make do for now. That the 1.5 hp motor is insufficient is a wake up. Since the Delta saw only cost $300, plus the carter roller guides, I'm going to keep it. I'm planning to keep any new saw in the garage, not the shop, so I'll have 220 available, which should really help with the resawing.
I have my BS and TS on 220v. I noticed that the BS will chug right through 6" stock, but the added couple of inches slow it down a lot. I am using the carbide impregnated blades for resawing and they seem to cut a little slower than the woodslicers ,but I get more miles out of them. The wood slicers do put less strain on the motor I think, but dull a little faster.

Herb
 

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Not *wanting* to go OT but, Herb, what brand and where did you get your carbide blade? My 1/2" 3TPI is getting pretty dull and was thinking of moving to a carbide blade. I know it's way pricey (or perhaps it's whiskey tango foxtrot pricey, not sure). I've got a pile of 8/4 jatoba that's just begging to get sliced thin.
 

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Not *wanting* to go OT but, Herb, what brand and where did you get your carbide blade? My 1/2" 3TPI is getting pretty dull and was thinking of moving to a carbide blade. I know it's way pricey (or perhaps it's whiskey tango foxtrot pricey, not sure). I've got a pile of 8/4 jatoba that's just begging to get sliced thin.
Phil they are Supercut Premium Gold bandsaw blades.

You can get them on Amazon for around $27.55 ea and are carbide impregnated,not carbide tipped. This link is for 105", if you are different just type in your link in the search bar.

Amazon.com: 105"supercut band saw blade: Tools & Home Improvement

They also have a lot of other different blades that might suit your needs better.

Herb
 

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I have a 1973 Delta, and I've also been contemplating getting a riser. Just how difficult would be to locate and drill the holes for the pins in the Grizzly riser? I have a nice set of center punches and a drill press.
 

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I have a 1973 Delta, and I've also been contemplating getting a riser. Just how difficult would be to locate and drill the holes for the pins in the Grizzly riser? I have a nice set of center punches and a drill press.
Seems to me that without a template, you'd have to disassemble the saw, create a cardboard template and work it out from there. You could disassemble, coat the top with either paint or something like lipstick, and use that to locate the punch. But that still doesn't handle the power issue.

How you might mount a new motor would differ from saw to saw. Mine is later and has an open stand with the saw hanging down so the weight of the saw tensions the belt. I wounder if there is some standard to holes and shafts that could be followed. Of course, if you measure carefully, that should do the motor issue. I'd think once you got the block in place that a 3hp 220 motor would give you the beef needed to resaw with ease. I'd sure want to make sure the rest of the saw was fine tuned.

The only other issue then would be blade width, since the Delta is set up for a half inch max blade. Anyone know if a 3/4 resaw blade would work if you added the power?
 

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Just had a conversation with Girzzly. They make a riser block that Delta says can be fitted to a Delta 14 inch band saw. I suggested to a Grizzly agent that they have their EOM manufacturer drill the holes needed for the Delta in their part number Grizzly H3051. They don't have to put pins in, just position the holes right.

OK, the point is, if you have the Delta 14 inch saw and want to do resawing, you need this riser. So lets all contact Delta AND Grizzly and ask them to work out how to add a couple of holes to the Grizzly riser block to match the Delta. Delta would happily refer to Grizzly for the part. Almost a freebee to Grizzley.

Anyone want to write to both companies and urge them to help out a bunch of folks and make a few bucks in the process?

Heck, someone could buy the Grizz kits and drill the correct holes themselves. I'd pay a 125 bucks for pre-fitted kit like that!

OK, whose going to be first to report contacting the makers?
My apologies, Tom...are you trying to add a riser to increase the 14 you have or are you trying to add inches to make it 14...?
 

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Seems to me that without a template, you'd have to disassemble the saw, create a cardboard template and work it out from there. You could disassemble, coat the top with either paint or something like lipstick, and use that to locate the punch. But that still doesn't handle the power issue.

How you might mount a new motor would differ from saw to saw. Mine is later and has an open stand with the saw hanging down so the weight of the saw tensions the belt. I wounder if there is some standard to holes and shafts that could be followed. Of course, if you measure carefully, that should do the motor issue. I'd think once you got the block in place that a 3hp 220 motor would give you the beef needed to resaw with ease. I'd sure want to make sure the rest of the saw was fine tuned.

The only other issue then would be blade width, since the Delta is set up for a half inch max blade. Anyone know if a 3/4 resaw blade would work if you added the power?
Tom, I did have to change the motor mount for the HF larger motor. The new motor had 2 Capacitors on top and would not fit the saw, so I mounted a large gate hinge to a piece of plywood and attached those to the saw.
Also if you change motors make sure the shaft isn't metric as the 5/8" is very close to the metric equivalent only a little smaller and the SAE and will not fit. You will have to buy the appropriate pulley.

My feeling is ,Tom, if you want to go to a 3hpX 3/4" blade go to a larger saw. I don't think that upgrading your saw to that level is a good idea. I have read that the 3/4 " blade requires a lot more tension and the top hinge on the blade adjustment of your saw is not made for that. Mine is not, it is made of cast aluminum, and will break. My saw is identical to the Grizzly,Jet,Delta,and a host of others, don't know what they use for the upper adjustment hinge.

Herb
 

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@Nickp - Tom is trying to raise the upper wheel to increase his resaw capacity from 6" to 12".

Tom, I have a riser for the 555LX. It's a different part from the other 555 models due to the rack and pinion guard adjustment, but I'm guessing that the alignment pin would be the same. I went ahead and bought it when you first posted this issue a few months ago just in case I ever needed the extra capacity, but still haven't installed it. I can create and post a template of the hole location, but I'd think that your better off drilling a hole in the riser block to match your saw's guide pin.
 

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A good 2hp motor should be more than sufficient for resawing 10-12". A dull blade will be difficult to get t properly track even with a 3hp. So its as much about the motor as it is the blade in my opinion. Take the data off of the motors nameplate especially FR or Frame...shaft dia. and length and the pulley. Armed with that, you shouldn't have much trouble upgrading. Replace the OEM belt with a link belt. Insure the pulley (sheave) is properly adjusted to fit the belt correctly. You dont want the belt to ride down in the pulley, should be just shy of the top edge of the pulley. V-groove of the belt needs to match up with both pulleys as well. 12" saws are typically limited to a 1/2" blade, 14" saw should be able to handle a 3/4" without problems. I wouldn't go bigger than 3/4" unless the mfg. can support the ability of a larger blades ability to flex on a 14" wheel.

just a couple cents worth..if that..
 
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