Deluxe Push Block

43864 Views 111 Replies 22 Participants Last post by seahawk65, Dec 25, 2012

bobj3

Discussion Starter · Nov 3, 2006 (Edited)

15

Deluxe Push Block for the Oak-Park box jigs.

This push block will let you use all 3 of the Oak-Park Box Jigs 1/4", 3/8", 1/2".
With this push block you will not need to make the offset block just set the 1st part in place and run the other two after.
The front part will need to be replace from time to time but the stop block will help.
It's a easy and quick one to make , The push block will hold the parts true and sq. to the table and the bit.
Just put on the 3/8" box jig, set the bit with the brass bar, then move the side part on the push block so it rides right next to the rail on the jig, clamp the parts, you are ready to cut the slots.

I got the hint from the links below, and I didn't want to pay 50 dollars for something I could make.

The one below is for 3/8" only. ▼
http://pricecutter.com/product.asp?pn=400-1255&c2p=cs&Box+Joint+Jig<br>Push+Block&bhcd2=1162583550
http://www.routerforums.com/attachm...e/3598-60-degree-chamfer-bit-boxpushblock.jpg
http://www.routerforums.com/router-bits-types-usage/3503-60-degree-chamfer-bit.html#post35002

If you need any more info just ask and I will post it.

Just a NOTE *** I found out the hard way I should have removed the sand paper from the spot the bit will come throught the stock and into the back board, it will dull the bit when it hits the sand paper.
Just a take a sharp knife and remove a 3/4" wide by 1" high piece.

Bj

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Bob N

· #2 · Nov 3, 2006

Very nice BJ....

That is a deluxe job if I ever seen one.

I'm going to save this and revisit the pictures when I have time to build one.

Thanks for sharing.

bobj3

Discussion Starter · #3 · Nov 3, 2006

Thanks Bob

Being a cheap SOB ,I like to make my own jigs

, and this one works great and it will save a step or two when making box joints, like making the offset block that Bob and Rick use.
Plus I didn't like holding the stock with one hand and pushing it over the bit with the other.
Things can happen so quick with a router and I do want to keep all my parts

still using MOST of them.

Bj

Bob N

· #4 · Nov 3, 2006

I'm not about to ask which parts you have stopped using

I agree... you can never be too careful using any power tool and most especially a router.

mpphoto

· #5 · Nov 4, 2006

Good timing Bj. I used a couple of 2x4s screwed together last week to make box joints and kept thinking I really need to make a proper push block.

If you're leaving the material clamped, how is the push block moving over each time since it only has one bottom slot to ride the fence rail?

(I used to think I was smart but woodworking has proven otherwise)

Michael

bobj3

Discussion Starter · #6 · Nov 4, 2006 (Edited)

Hi Michael

I just unclamp the stock and move it over and reclamp it then make the next slot.
The sand paper holds it with just a bit of help from the hand clamp.
Plus it keeps my fingers back and away from the bit when I make the pass.
The two clamped parts in the snapshot ,just to show how to set it up for both parts.
No need to use the slide on offset block that Bob and Rick use.
The 1st. slot is always true no matter how wide the board is, just flip it around and use it for the offset, just like the block that Bob and Rick use but in this case you don't need to make one..

because you just did.

Bj

mpphoto

· #7 · Nov 4, 2006

Aaah, got it.
Very similar to the block I was going to make, but yours is much fancier

thanks-
Michael

bobj3

Discussion Starter · #8 · Nov 4, 2006

Hi Michael

The neat part about the jig is that you can use it for ALL the box jigs, I'm working on a way to use it for making 3/4" slots, I think that would look neat in 3/4" thick stock.

That's why you see a 3/4" wide slot in the base.

Bj

bobj3

Discussion Starter · #9 · Nov 5, 2006

Hi Michael

Can you please post a snapshot of the jig you made I sure would like to see it.

Thanks
Bj

challagan

· #10 · Nov 5, 2006

This is excellent Bob, thanks for posting it! Definitely has a couple plus's over just using a block and like you said, you don't have to make the offset piece either. Nice!

Corey

bobj3

Discussion Starter · #11 · Nov 5, 2006

Thanks Corey

I was in the shop today using it and it's works great for some scrap MDF stock. LOL
I made some small drawers that needed the 1/4" and 2 that needed the 3/8" slots, both sizes turn out true and sq. and right on the button...
I wanted to make a big drawer that needed the 3/4" wide slots but I did settle on the 1/2" size because I was to lazzy to play with reworking the jig (Push block) for 3/4" wide slots.
Some cold and wet day I will play with it and get it done.

Bj

mpphoto

· #12 · Nov 5, 2006

bobj3 said:
Hi Michael

Can you please post a snapshot of the jig you made I sure would like to see it.

Thanks
Bj

Still making it

but will certainly post it when it's finished.
(This weekend was "spray" weekend. Spraying shellac and poly on desks etc)

The one I used last week was 2 pcs of 2x3 screwed together. Very "primitive". I thought they provided enough support but I managed to slide the wood over the bit skewed more than once resulting in not-so-perfect fitting joints. That's when I decided I needed a pushblock that would ride the rail; then it wouldn't twist.

Michael

bobj3

Discussion Starter · #13 · May 13, 2007

Hi Michael

It's been almost 180 days , and the forum was slow today so I started to look back at some of the old posted items and come across this one.

Did you make the push block for your router table and if so do you have a snapshot or two of what you made .... ????

Bj

Bob N

· #14 · May 13, 2007

Bj,

I have been looking at your push block for a couple of months and want you to know that is is on my list of projects to make. Right now I am working on my first box and it has been quite an adventure. Since the box and dovetail joints will play a large part in my future box making, I think your push block is a must have item in my shop. Thanks for sharing your idea.

challagan

· #15 · May 13, 2007

Me to...well with a few mods. I think the box joint jigs are more accurate and safe with a push block like this. Seems like I am never going to get back into the shop though... with the father-in-law going into heart surgery in the morning that will be some long recovery and then that damn kitchen. Good thing is I don't have any work trips planned for at least a month.. maybe 2!

Corey

Joe Lyddon

· #16 · May 13, 2007

Very good, Bob.

Benny LaBaw

· #17 · May 30, 2007

3

Pakuri(noun)

Thank you, Bj san.
I made a copy.

copy:an imitation of an original work.
I found it in a dictionary. What is a difference between copy and imitate, I wonder.
My friend said "crib" is good in this situation.
"Pakuru(verb)" is a informal(slang) Japanese which is used like this case.
We used to say "Bj san, paku-chai-masita(I cribed)". This means "Thank you, Bj san. I copied it because that must be very useful to me."

Anyway, "learn" translated into "manabu" in Japanese.
This original meaning of "manabu" comes from "maneru" which means imitate.
A skill is started to imitate of his master's.
Then, this kind of changes is happened, I think.
So, please let me imitate anything.

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challagan

· #18 · May 30, 2007

WOW Nice one Benny, you pulled off a top notch, copy or maneru on this push block. Excellent work.

Corey

bobj3

Discussion Starter · #19 · May 30, 2007

Thanks Benny san

You did a great job

, that's the best compliment of all ,when some copies a jig..and puts it's to work

I should note this same jig (push block) will work for 1/8" slot joints for making wooden hinges...

Bj

harrysin

· #20 · May 30, 2007

Great work once again Bob. Now I would take bets on you having a video camera, that being the case, could you not persuade you're bride to guide the camera one day whilst you are working you're magic?

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