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Discussion Starter #1
I have a basic home made table and fence. I wanted to do some routing with it, where I route about 6" into a block of wood, and then move the fence over a little, and do it again, for about an inch and a half (I'm using a keyhole slot bit to create a slot that a piece of wood will slide into.) The problem is, I don't know how to set a depth stop, as I had been moving one side of the fence and then the other, so the effective depth of cut changed depending on it's orientation... Is there an easy way to control depth of cut with a home made fence set up? (Without putting t tracks in the table?)
 

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From what you are saying I would think all you have to do is clamp a block on each side of you table so the fence hit the blocks at its last depth for the cut.

Now move the fence to the starting point of your cut and make the first cut, move the fence back and do the next and so on or am I missing what you are asking?
 

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I have a basic home made table and fence. I wanted to do some routing with it, where I route about 6" into a block of wood, and then move the fence over a little, and do it again, for about an inch and a half (I'm using a keyhole slot bit to create a slot that a piece of wood will slide into.) The problem is, I don't know how to set a depth stop, as I had been moving one side of the fence and then the other, so the effective depth of cut changed depending on it's orientation... Is there an easy way to control depth of cut with a home made fence set up? (Without putting t tracks in the table?)
I think what you are doing is with a stop clamped to the fence, you essentially are changing the stop when you change the fence. In this case you will need to clamp your stop to the table so it won't change relative to the bit when you move the fence. This would be true irregardless of whether you mount the fence in t-tracks or not. Track mounted fences also have lateral movement such that fence mounted stops don't work when the fence needs to be moved. My fence is track mounted and I regularly swing one end or the other for depth settings.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys. That's more or less what I thought I had to do, but I thought maybe there was an easier way.

I also have a mortising jig, I think I might try to use this for the job, it is way quicker to make fine adjustments with it than my router table, which is pretty fidgety.
 

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for fine adjustments just put a screw in your wood block and that way no saw dust will accumulate and you can make micro adjustments. The poster above is correct in the relationship of bit to table vs fence and where to clamp the block.
 
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