So you can essentially set them all up before you begin your work and it just ends up being the case of rotating the turrets on each pass?I think I understand what you are asking, but will not swear to it. But here goes:
1. Set your maximum depth of cut on your lowest stop on the rotating depth-setting turret. If there is a protruding screw and locknut, you may need to loosen the nut and screw the screw (usually has a recess for a screwdriver) in as far as possible, and re-lock the nut. Loosen whatever holds the depth-of-cut rod or gauge, allow it to make contact with the turret stop, tighten up again, do not change.
2. Rotate the turret to the next stop, set as above, for 2/3 of the depth of cut.
3. Repeat again with the next stop on the turret for 1/3 depth of cut.
You start the cut plunging down to the third stop (i.e 1/3 of depth), then work you way down on the repeat cuts.
If I misunderstood, apologies, please re-phrase.
Well I'm on page 1of Alan Holtham's Complete Routing book, so way off being a serious router, but what I have discovered around the Internet is that these features are not as accurate as they make out, but I guess as I am starting out getting used to the tool, it's not a bad way to start.Most routers seem to have the obsolete three step depth turrets. For serious routing this is useless. Fortunately I have a metal lathe and have made multi step turrets.
Good day Harry, I do like your extra lighting and the new turret.Most routers seem to have the obsolete three step depth turrets. For serious routing this is useless. Fortunately I have a metal lathe and have made multi step turrets.
I don't have a patent on them Geoff, get cracking and have a go.Good day Harry, I do like your extra lighting and the new turret.