I'm interested in routers which uses 240v. and with a 1/10mm depth control. The blue pro Bosch has it and apparently Festo but how is it with the other labels? I'm using Leigh D4R and it's tricky to get the right bit depth on an old Elu MOF96.
.1mm is .004". On joints like lock miters (think about it - piece on the table is indexing off the inside edge of the corner while the piece vertical against the fence is indexing off the outside) the error is doubled and .008" is a gap almost big enough to slide three sheets of paper in.
Of course, it's a router not a vertical mill and may take some iteration to get there.
You can get much, much tighter before you have problems.
Perhaps Esko's question was misunderstood? All he's asking is if there are other routers that have the fine adjustment calibrated in 1/10 mm increments. In effect he's asking to be able to accurately set a 10.3mm depth difference from a 10.7mm depth (for example). No guessing. Seems reasonable. Foe sure a piece of 20lb bond stands proud of a smooth table top; three thicknesses would be an issue.
Perhaps Esko's question was misunderstood? All he's asking is if there are other routers that have the fine adjustment calibrated in 1/10 mm increments. In effect he's asking to be able to accurately set a 10.3mm depth difference from a 10.7mm depth (for example). No guessing. Seems reasonable.
Definitely reasonable. With a dovetail jig I find 0.2mm either way on depth adjustment can make the difference between a good joint and one which is either too loose or won't go together. I rely on a bit of trial and error to get the depth right but it would be nice to be able to just dial it straight in.
On the Triton MOF001 each mark on the fine adjuster is 0.2mm, and one full turn is 2mm. Not sure about the bigger model. The control is certainly fine enough to make 0.1mm adjustments but gear backlash is a problem. You get a bit of a "dead spot" when you switch from adjusting up to adjusting down, which would need a bit of finesse to take out of the equation if you wanted to achieve 0.1mm accuracy.
" but how is it with the other labels"
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Essentially any depth of cut change is possible with most plunge routers.
A feeler gage (with or without the turret) will allow precise changes.
Thank's Pat and Dan.
Pat. The plunge-router is an odball here in Finland. Ofcourse I'v seen those in pics in books and magazines but I haven't had such in my hand or seen it in toolstores.
Dan. You'r on the right track.
There is a diference. I get less sanding when I have an easy depth control on my router.
Ofcourse you guys use leigh and similar jigs all the time and I just don't know how to use mine.
"There is a diference. I get less sanding when I have an easy depth control on my router."
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You're suggesting fixed base routers might be able to hit a .1mm target. They will not.
Their primary disadvantage. None of them can make a 4 mil change and hit that change without some iteration. No fixed base router can hit target depth (in the hand) on the first shot except x luck. Plungers can but not fixed base.
Thank you for the good answers.
But what was the original
Q: Is there enough space for pvac?
Q: Are there other labels on the market with 1/10mm depth control than Bosch?
Can't remember anymore...
These routers may well have a 1/10mm setting on their depth scales, but I question how accurate any of them are because they will all suffer from backlash in the adjuster rendering their scale calibration next to useless. You could achieve the desired result with your old MOF96 (or for that matter any other plunge router) simply by bolting-on an electronic DRO (digital read out) and scale, such as one of those by Wixey.
To my knowledge there has only ever been one router brand which was fitted with a dial calliper to achieve a similar effect - Metabo. These days they only sell one router with such a facility, the 8mm-1/4in Signal Ofe.1229
They used to sell a 1/2in router, the OFe.1812 (actually made by Felisatti in Italy, but with some Metabo-only additional features, including the dial indicator)
but this was dropped a year or two back. If you really need one you might get lucky by Googling the model
I've used the Signal - it's made by Metabo in Germany (not bought-in or Chinese) and is very reminiscent of the MOF96 design if a little lighter, even the fences are interchangeable. In the past a variant of this model, without the dial scale, was also sold under the Holz-Her name, another quality make.
Thanks Phil. You have illustrated me everything about the router depth adjustment.
With your info I understand that I have been unprecise. The backlash doesn't bother me that mush. I could even be happy with a microadjuster with only + and - marks. But with dovetail joints thats not enough.
I don't think its been mentioned but on any machine thats got a threaded adjuster if you find out the pitch of the thread you can work out a kind of a scale even if it doesn't have lines calibrated on it.
For instance if its got a 1mm thread (thats would be an M6 thread and yeah this is metric) a half turn is fairly unsurprisingly half a mm.
Its the principle behind micrometers anyway.
I have a metric micrometer that has a thimble with .5mm thread pitch and a full turn equals half a mm, the scale on the thimble reads upto 50 so every increment is a hundredth of a milimetre and two turns is a mm.
Obviously there's backlash to be taken into account and its possible to get shim washers that lessen it, in some cases its possible to split the nut on the adjuster and put a grub screw into separate it slightly like lathe adjusters but thats only really possible on big stuff and its not really happening on a router.
Even just measuring the thread pitch of any adjuster and writing the result next to it helps work things out I think.
Hi Scott!
You know. Sometimes you have the obvious answer right in front of you but yoyu cannot read it. I bought the router new and since then I've hit my head against the workshopwall because the lack of fineadjuster. And now you have kindly showed me that it was all for nothing. I wish I would have joined this forum as early as 1995.
Many thanks Scott!!!
Hope I now can get rid of the red colour on the wall...
Say, do you know does the clone machine accessories fit EluMOF96. I need a dust port and the original Elu/DeWalt makes 80-90€ in Finland.
Esko, there is a simple method to reduce the back lash problem in the height adjustment mechanisms. Always make your adjustments going up. If you are too high lower your router and then bring it back up to your height. This takes out the play as much as possible because the weight of the router is making the screw work to raise it. This is one of the lessons from Bob Rosendahl of the Router Workshop and it makes sense to me.
Keep in mind that for most projects you must leave some room for the glue. As the glue is absorbed into the wood it causes swelling. If your joint is too tight you will in effect squeeze out too much glue resulting in a weak bond.
While I have never found the need to use gauging for setting bit heights I know others feel more comfortable using this method. I have a Betterley UniGauge for setting up equipment and a similar method for setting your bit height/fence might ease your mind. The UniGauge has both metric and SAE legs for adjustments and can be purchased with either a dial indicator or a digital gauge.
And to add to Mike's approach:
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I agree, the best way to adjust the fixed base router is up the gradient against gravity.
Indeed, most if not all the back lash will be cancelled adjusting against gravity.
Notwithstanding, The router fiducials (lines & numbers) are gross approximations.
Moreover, parallax, slop, technique sensitivity and so on still leaves us with a guess at depth.
An iteration/test is required to find out where the cutter is really cutting.
And, of course, where anything is set, {except precision tooling (and routers are anything but)} is not necessarily where it cuts. There is the machine signature and setup to account for.
We can get close but the net measured depth of cut is your best approximation. And best done on scrap under the same setup conditions as the project stock.
I've just had a look at my Hitachi M12V2 router with a thread gauge and the main height adjuster has a 2mm thread pitch so one full turn alters its height by 2mm, half a turn 1mm, quarter turn 0.5mm and so on.
There's twelve bumps on the top adjusting knob so each bump is equal to 0.16666666 (recurring) mm of adjustment.
The baseplate fence adjuster has 1.5mm pitch thread so a full turn moves it 1.5mm, half a turn 0.75mm and a quarter turn 0.35mm and so on. I counted the little high points on the baseplate fence adjuster and I think* its got seventy two of them so each high point is 0.0208mm round from the next.
Obviously there's backlash(which is nicely covered above in this thread) and things move but this is woodwork anyway and nothings perfect.
Main point is that just because there's no graduated scale on your powertool adjusters doesn't mean you can't make some up, put a dot or several onto the adjusters and mark what pitch the threads are. Hell you could even go crazy and print a stick on graduated scale for the tops of your adjusters.
Just a thread pitch gauge and a calculator go a long way.
Any adjuster thats just got a nut or bolt on it can be divided into six by using the corners or flats, and 12 by using the corners and flats if you get my drift.
Sometimes that might work out well with increments and sometimes (depending on thread pitch) it will be awkward and kind of unwieldy increments.
I have no idea if routers sold in the US have metric threads on their adjusters or imperial, you will have to check that out for yourself.
All of the above is "Ideal world" accuracy and the real figures will vary depending on a number of factors, I'm basically fairly green to all this router business so I'm sure you folk will know more about those factors than I do.
Edit, I've just had a good look at my De-Walt 26200 compact router which has metric settings on the adjusting ring. Thing is that the numbers go both ways round it, upto 6 and a bit. Huh? Six and bit mm for half a turn?
That would be 6.35mm then, for half a turn of the adjuster.
So, what I have is a half inch pitch to the body adjusting thread and metric mm numbering system.
To me thats a bit like measuring something then giving its size as a foot and 7mm.
Great... If De-Walt had though it through a little better they could have made the thread pitch of the router body (on European models anyway) 10mm and had ten increments of 1mm.
That would be what I call metric instead of the half arsed way they did it on the one I own.
Other than that I really like the little router and much prefer it to the (admittedly smaller) Bosch and Makita laminate trimmers I've used.
*My lovely wife asked me a question in the middle of counting it and I'm not positive. Might count it again later on.
Hi Scott. This is great:
"just because there's no graduated scale on your powertool adjusters doesn't mean you can't make some up".
Allways thought that the revolver type hight adjuster is only for very coarce.. adjustments.
The sqrews I have never understans of. But now you have "filled my my soul with happines and glory". Can you do that allso with vac attachement? : )
Now I only have to make it work in my head, if you get my point : )
You guys have clearly encreased the amount of knowledge in english of what there is with router. My vokabularity (english words) in routerstuff is 80% or more than before joining the forum!
"I'm interested in routers which uses 240v. and with a 1/10mm depth control. The blue pro Bosch has it and apparently Festo but how is it with the other labels? I'm using Leigh D4R and it's tricky to get the right bit depth on an old Elu MOF96."
I was wondering that did I mentioning anything about how I use my router. No, I did not. Well I use it mobile, handheld. Not attached to the table. On the other hand you can't use leigh with a table mounted router either.
Scott. The most important you have to learn, first, is ofcourse:
Yläjyrsin=Router
Keskustelupalsta=Forum
Jalkapallo=Soccer
Äiti=Mother
Kiitos=Thank you
Ei=No
Lehtisaha=scrolsaw
Tammi=Oak
In my saunathread there is more important Finnish words. With your new Fennougric contakcts you can add phrases(Kiitos Dan)that match the conversation. Eg.
"Your wife looks nice in "löyly".
Tiny; your translations didn't mention
-beer
-more
-yes
-please
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