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That's what I don't understand. It has never given a hint of trouble and ran fine yesterday. When I turned it on today and it ran for a 1/2 second I thought it must have tripped a breaker. But everything else plugged into that same circuit runs fine. So I plugged it into another one with the same result. Then I pulled the switch completely out, plugged it in again, and checked power on both sides of the switch and there's a full 120 volts on the motor side of the switch.

This is the position of the breaker switch, looks to me like that's where it's supposed to be. And it doesn't want to move at all other than a slight rocking back and forth but it's always been like that. And it has never tripped.

View attachment 300066

View attachment 300074

David
I would get to the switch, detach some wire(s) and check the switch continuity when in ON & OFF positions...

Do the same thing to the Breaker / Fuse IN THE Machine... The Breaker could go bad... and if the breaker went bad, there is probably a REASON for it... ergo, another problem somewhere... (??)

Those two items should shed some light on it...
You have to check each one on it's own, NOT connected to the machine.

Let us know what happens, OK?

Good luck...
 

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Did that already - see above. I can pull it again and check continuity but if it's getting 120 volts on the switched side then I'm going to say the switch is good. To get to the little breaker I've shown in the photo requires a full breakdown and I won't have time for that until the end of the week.

Thanks!
David
Then you must follow the 120v TO the Motor...

If it's getting to the motor and the motor doesn't run, the motor is bad.
 

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I can measure voltage to the motor side of the switch so something is open between the switch and the motor (brushes).

I got to thinking that maybe I can see the breaker through the switch opening if I remove the switch and I can see it just fine, no disassembly necessary. And the good thing is that the breaker is closed so I can rule that out. I still don't really have time to break the unit down to get the motor out so that may have to wait.

View attachment 300162

David
OK, it sounds like you have voltage coming OUT of the switch... BUT cannot measure voltage AT the motor... which is the key question... You MUST be able to measure voltage AT the Motor...
 

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I took the time to take the motor off after I figured out that I didn't have to disassemble the entire unit (makes sense that it would come off without that...).

So here's what I have:
1) The two white leads in the photo are open and show no value.
2) There is no short or value between either lead and the commutator.
3) I went through the brush openings and checked resistance across the commutator segments 180° apart and all read the same.
4) It appears that going much further in this disassembly may require special tools, puller, etc. I can get the gearbox off but that's not going to do much for me at this point.

David

View attachment 300290
If those are the ONLY two wires coming from the motor... and there is NO continuity between them, to me, that indicates the circuit is OPEN where if voltage were applied, NOTHING would happen... ergo, Bad Motor.

It's nice that it should not be too hard to replace it!

Also looks like a lot of carbon around everything, etc.

You would have nothing to lose by taking the motor apart (so you could put back together) looking for disconnected wires, etc. (which could easily be fixed with a little solder, etc.)

Are the Motors still available? At what cost?

I think you really Found the problem... Finally! :)

Good Luck!
 

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Well, I thought I was through with this topic but when I saw the blades I had to post a photo. I have not sharpened or replaced blades in the entire 20 years I've had this planer. This is the first time I've even seen them except to take a glance from the working side on occasion.

Not too bad after 20 years -
View attachment 300370

David
... maybe they put an extra Drag on the motor... (?) :) :D
 
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