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Rick
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Guys Home Depot doesn’t like quality products anymore and dropped all their Freud table saw blades in a favour of Diablo . The Freud router bits are being ousted next ,to bad there wasn’t a deal .

Anyways the local steel place here always scratches my checker plate when they cut it , so I want to opt to do it myself on my tablesaw.
I need to cut checker plate aluminium , and am wondering if the Diablo blades are recommended .
This is the link for the one I’m looking at . I was going to try Home Hardware tomorrow and see if they carry Freud .

https://www.homedepot.ca/product/freud-10-in-non-ferrous-plastic-80-teeth/1000152640?rec=true
 

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seriously...
all the information about blades I've put up and you ask this...
just make sure it's a negative rake and a TCG grind...
 

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I don't cut metal with a saw blade, on purpose anyway. But years ago I bought a blade for my circular saw at Big Lots, for $10. Carbide tipped, zipped thru wood like a hot knife thru butter, still does for that matter. I think the blade would be good thru aluminum, don't know if it would scratch it or not, but a run with a sander would solve that. Thing is, if it was only good for a few pieces, then had to be replaced, it was cheap. Haven't been in Big Lots for a number of years, but they always had things at a low price. Bought a batch of metal quick clamps for $1 each, should have bought them all. If you have one near you wouldn't hurt to check it out. I think I'll try to remember to check the one here, if I remember next time I'm in the county seat.
 
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Rick
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
How thick is the Diamond plate?
Herb
Good question Herb . It seems pretty thin ,but that’s not saying much . I may just go and purchase the Diablo tomorrow , that’s if the other two stores do not stock Freud
 

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Rick...the one Gene found seems to have more of a negative rake than the other one...

Do this...measure the thickness of the aluminum, including the humps, and contact Freud/Diablo for their recommendation.

More teeth and negative rake is better...
 

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I had a chance to ask a Freud rep a couple of years ago what the difference was between the Diablo and the Industrial lines of blades. His answer were that they were identical except for the thickness of the carbide which allowed the industrial line blades to be sharpened more times. If you were buying a D1024 thin rip blade which KMS Tools occasionally sells for $29.95 you probably aren't going to have it resharpened anyway so the Diablo becomes a better deal. They do sell non ferrous cutting blades (brass, copper, aluminum) which will have the correct tooth rake and hardness of carbide for that particular job.
 

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Rick
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Guys I’m starting to think about the last time I cut checker plate ,and I think I used a panel saw blade . For some reason I believe I installed it backwards .
I’ve got lots of spare pieces to test I guess
 

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Guys I’m starting to think about the last time I cut checker plate ,and I think I used a panel saw blade . For some reason I believe I installed it backwards .
I’ve got lots of spare pieces to test I guess
that'd work if the plate was very thin vinyl....
 

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Rick
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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
that'd work if the plate was very thin vinyl....
That’s exactly how I cut vinyl, and it’s making me wonder if that memory is getting me confused with cutting aluminum.
I’m almost thinking that I used a panel blade in the normal direction when I cut aluminum.

I’m heading to HD right now , and maybe I’ll just buy the right blade. Checked with Home Hardware ,and they has gotten rid of most of their Freud lineup in favour of Diablo also .
Their motto should be , go cheap or go home
 

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Rick for cutting something soft turning the blade around is okay but not for something hard. I used to do that when trimming metal roofing flush at the eaves of the roof but I had teeth get thrown off doing it so I quit and started using metal cut off blades for a circ saw. I keep an old B & D just for cutting metal. It's slow going but the edges are clean and straight that way.

The solder that holds the teeth on a blade is designed to cushion the joint between the blade and teeth to the impact that happens when the tooth makes contact. It's not designed to keep the tooth from breaking away when cutting in the wrong rotation. My advice: NEVER use the blade in the wrong rotation. You could lose an eye or get a serious puncture wound.
 

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Rick
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Rick for cutting something soft turning the blade around is okay but not for something hard. I used to do that when trimming metal roofing flush at the eaves of the roof but I had teeth get thrown off doing it so I quit and started using metal cut off blades for a circ saw. I keep an old B & D just for cutting metal. It's slow going but the edges are clean and straight that way.

The solder that holds the teeth on a blade is designed to cushion the joint between the blade and teeth to the impact that happens when the tooth makes contact. It's not designed to keep the tooth from breaking away when cutting in the wrong rotation. My advice: NEVER use the blade in the wrong rotation. You could lose an eye or get a serious puncture wound.
I never turn carbide blades around , only this panel saw blade that has no welded teeth on it .
Last year I was trying to cut wood on my table saw and I’m having a tough time and there’s smoke everywhere.
Then I realize my panel saw blade which was installed backwards from previously cutting plastic was still in place . Didn’t cut wood worth a darn lol
 

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not a good plan IMO...
I can't remember but they may well have been using non-carbide tipped blades. Doesn't really matter anymore; it wasn't me doing it and I'm retired in any case... ;)
(Does anyone even use Aluminum siding anymore??? Seems like Hardie has pretty much taken over the siding industry.)
 
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