[Andrew2021]

Hello, everyone.

A cabinet door made of oak. I want to make a door with a thickening. To reduce the mass and forces of inertia came up with this idea: at one end of the thickening with a smooth transition to the thin part. The thickness in the thickening is 30-32 mm. The thickness of the thin part is 20-22 mm. Smooth transitions in order not to concentrate dirt or it could be easily removed.

Do cutters with this profile exist? What are they called? And where to buy them?

 

[bcfunburst]

Hello, everyone.

A cabinet door made of oak. I want to make a door with a thickening. To reduce the mass and forces of inertia came up with this idea: at one end of the thickening with a smooth transition to the thin part. The thickness in the thickening is 30-32 mm. The thickness of the thin part is 20-22 mm. Smooth transitions in order not to concentrate dirt or it could be easily removed.

View attachment 399511
Do cutters with this profile exist? What are they called? And where to buy them?

Perhaps a Raised Panel Cutting Bit could be used to make such a profile. There are several different shapes to choose from at "Lee Valley Tools". I suggest you use a cutter in a table mount router! For safety, you should consider using a cutter with a 1/2" shank!
Search - Lee Valley Tools <> OR Try <> Woodworking Router Bit 1/2 inch Shank T Shape Wood Milling Bit Tongue and Groove Tool Sets Raised Panel Router Bit Woodworking Milling Cutter for Grooving Different Depth Notches : Amazon.ca: Tools & Home
Improvement You will change the finished product profile dimensions by raising or lowering the cutting bit at table top. Hope this might help you find a solution. Best of routing fun! Please remember Safety First.

 

[old55]

Welcome to the forum Andrew.

 

[jw2170]

G'day Andrew, welcome to the forum..

It does look like something a panel raising cutter could do.

 

[Andrew2021]

Thanks for the directions!

 

[bfblack]

I think this profile is called "ogee".

 

[ken in minnesota]

send your drawing to Woodmaster profile knives and let them know what machine you have, i use a foley belsaw molding machine. and they can make the cutter for you.
i have had to copy some old trim molding and i cut a thin slice of the original and scaned it and e-mailed to them for a perfect reproduction.

 

[Dejure]

That looks A LOT like one (a cutter) I made using a bit I bought. I was working a Street of Dreams home that suffered a lot of water damage to the particleboard siding. I could not find a match anywhere locally for the repair. The siding was made to look like three staggered boards of cedar, per 20" x 10' sheet.

I hit the tool store and bought a router bit, brought it home, took the bearing off, and ground off the bearing mount so there was no longer any guide. Mounted in my router table, the lack of guide let me keep pushing the bit deeper into a board with each pass (a little at a time, of course).

I just used common cedar fence boards planed down to the thickness of the siding. In the end, you could not tell the difference between the actual cedar and the particleboard siding they tied to.

That made for comedy - being proud of being able to make real wood look just like the fake stuff.

SIDE NOTE: I primed and painted both sides and edges.