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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I made this for cutting slots for floating tenons like the Domino uses. Can't afford their machine, but found a less expensive source for the tenons. Use with a 5/8"od template bushing and a 3/16" spiral end mill.

Full story and links to where .CRV file for the template can be found.: 4DFurniture

4D
 

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There's a lot of way to skin a cat with this. After 7 years using one at a furniture company, I just don't think about using one now.. Domino is just a fast production joinery system.

I can't remember the name of the system , but it incorporated a router sideways and will do the same thing, just not portable
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
True Rebelwork. I only use this jig when I've got long boards I need to join. Mostly just to keep them aligned when clamping up. For connecting other furniture parts I've got a small CNC with a vertical/adjustable angle rig to clamp parts to. If floating tenons make sense I use that CNC to cut the slots.
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I checked your description in the link and have a few questions. How do you ensure the template/slot is parallell to your workpiece? Is there some center marking in the template showing the centre of the cut in that direction? I also wonder about the idea with different templates. Wouldn't it work to just run it with router bits matching the dominos (5,6,8,10) mm and never change the template?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
How do you ensure the template/slot is parallell to your workpiece? ... I also wonder about the idea with different templates. Wouldn't it work to just run it with router bits matching the dominos (5,6,8,10) mm and never change the template?
At the moment all I have is one jar of the 20mm x 40mm 6mm thick tenons. My original intent was to scribe centerlines in both directions on the plastic but on the top side, and realized depending on how aligned your view was you might be off a bit. I put a centerline on the wood strips which could be aligned with a line you put on your wood edge where you wanted the slot made. Making the wood strips parallel to the slot just required comparing each end to the screw slots and making them the same distance from the slot ends. Only one side needed that few second to align, and once placed on the wood edge the other side was snugged up to the wood and tightened down.

I suspect the same template could be used if I had 5,6,8,and 10mm router bits. This template is just for the 6mm x 20mm tenons I have using a 3/16" bit which I have. This template is just a quick attempt to use what I have for the tenons I have. As I cut it out on my CNC it is easy to make a quick change to use 8mm x 22mm tenons and cut a second template for a 3/16" bit. I'd have to change to a longer 1/4" bit for the longer 8mm and 10mm tenons that are available,
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You could scribe lines on the bottom side of the top, this should minimize sight alignment issues. I would make a line for the center of the slot and then several lines where the fence should be located. Checking the screw slots distance seems like a quite inaccurate method.(?)

Regarding the router bits I see your point, although I think having appropriate router bits and only one template would be a neater solution.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I don't disagree with you Ola. Scribing the bottom face would take a 2-sided CNC job which demands careful alignment that I can do but is an annoying step that I like to avoid for quick prototypes. If I was going to make and sell a template/jig I'd go to more trouble to make it easy to align and and clamp on/off. This first prototype works fine for my needs. An idea to share. A seed for others to improve upon.
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I bought that doweling joiner a few years back. The info claimed it came with 3/8" diameter bits for 3/8" dowels which I have a drawer full of. When it showed up it had two 5/16" bits in. I didn't see any quick source at the time for 3/8" bits that would work in it I sent it back. I've got a self centering doweling jig that came with 1/4, 5/16, and 3/8" bushings i can change out as needed. It does all my doweling needs for less $$ than that doweling joiner.
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I bought that doweling joiner a few years back. The info claimed it came with 3/8" diameter bits for 3/8" dowels which I have a drawer full of. When it showed up it had two 5/16" bits in. I didn't see any quick source at the time for 3/8" bits that would work in it I sent it back. I've got a self centering doweling jig that came with 1/4, 5/16, and 3/8" bushings i can change out as needed. It does all my doweling needs for less $$ than that doweling joiner.
4D
Unfortunately the drill chuck of the Doweling Joiner can only take special drill bits with shank reduced to 8mm at the end.. 8mm, 10mm and 12mm such special drills bits FOR WOOD are available.
Dowells 8mm,10mm and 12mm are relatively cheap and are available almost everywhere.
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I quickly made a version you could use with metric 5mm and 6mm bits to cut slots for 5mm and 6mm thick domino tenons. I haven't cut this out out yet but I did go ahead and order the 5mm and 6mm bits with 1/4" shank from amazon

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My software can't render clear materials, but on the backside are etched centerline grooves to help line up the jig which you can see through a clear acrylic template. Not so useful if you make your template from plywood or hardboard
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
BTW I added a file for the above template on the same link thread my blog has at Vectric's forum.
A 6mm bit is due to arrive today so I'll likely cut out the above template just to verify it works well using that bit.
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There's a lot of way to skin a cat with this. After 7 years using one at a furniture company, I just don't think about using one now.. Domino is just a fast production joinery system.

I can't remember the name of the system , but it incorporated a router sideways and will do the same thing, just not portable
that would be
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
A new young professor, when hired to teach our furniture design courses, want a Multi-router to use in the fab lab. I pointed out the PantotRouter initially designed by Matthias Wandel, but followed up with the fact that anything she could image could be done with the small CNCs I oversaw that I'd jigged up to allow clamping boards at just about any angle under the spindle. I believe they opted for the PantoRouter. They have a room full of 3D printers they use to make the guide templates with that they can't just buy.
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Here is my version of a mortise jig that was made with a router table since I do not have a CNC machine. The jig is for a nominal 3/8" thick floating tenon and uses the same 5/8" OD guide bushing as the OP. I use a gauge block to align my fence parallel to the edge of the guide bushing slot. For 3/4" stock and 5/8" wide guide bushing slot, the fence should be 1/16" away from the edge of the guide bushing slot. You can repeatably achieve this offset to within a few thousands of an inch just by using your finger to feel the mismatch. I challenge you to achieve that repeatability if you are aligning the jig with a layout line on your stock.
I make my own floating tenons with a thickness to match the width of the as cut mortise. Remember that if you have a router bit sharpened, the diameter will be reduced slightly.
If you want to go down this path, here are some suggestions for improving the jig design:
  1. Don't center the slot right-to-left if your router base has any asymmetry.
  2. Have fence longer than the width of the jig base. This will allow clamping flexibility.
  3. Make the jig base out of MDF or Melamine/MDF core. Both are more dimensionally stable.
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Nicely done bfblack. The scrap I had of acrylic was small enough that making it wider to use knobs wasn't doable. As such the recess for pan head wood screws which could also be done using a router table. Before I had a CNC to use just about every jig/template I made was done using a router table for the slots and such.
4D
 
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