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Here is my version of a mortise jig that was made with a router table since I do not have a CNC machine. The jig is for a nominal 3/8" thick floating tenon and uses the same 5/8" OD guide bushing as the OP. I use a gauge block to align my fence parallel to the edge of the guide bushing slot. For 3/4" stock and 5/8" wide guide bushing slot, the fence should be 1/16" away from the edge of the guide bushing slot. You can repeatably achieve this offset to within a few thousands of an inch just by using your finger to feel the mismatch. I challenge you to achieve that repeatability if you are aligning the jig with a layout line on your stock.
I make my own floating tenons with a thickness to match the width of the as cut mortise. Remember that if you have a router bit sharpened, the diameter will be reduced slightly.
If you want to go down this path, here are some suggestions for improving the jig design:
I make my own floating tenons with a thickness to match the width of the as cut mortise. Remember that if you have a router bit sharpened, the diameter will be reduced slightly.
If you want to go down this path, here are some suggestions for improving the jig design:
- Don't center the slot right-to-left if your router base has any asymmetry.
- Have fence longer than the width of the jig base. This will allow clamping flexibility.
- Make the jig base out of MDF or Melamine/MDF core. Both are more dimensionally stable.