[Router is still my name]

I couldn’t believe it. It scared the heck out me.
Expensive mistake, That’s 3 inch solid carbide DC spiral bit.

 

[bobj3]

WOW ,,,that will get your heart going...

Very strong but very brittle just like glass,looks like it tipped over to far to one side and jambed the bit into the MDF and took off to the side,looks like it nail the top also, at this point you may want to flip it over and start over.

Good Luck

Bj

 

[Router is still my name]

Fortunately, The top was saved (no damage whatsoever) the template got nicked (but I can repair that) and the offset sticks got chewed no big deal. It’s strange though, I always make only ¼ passes and stop and vacuum the wood dust and let the bit cool off, actually, I had completed the cut but for no reason I decided one more run would be cool and in my excitement, I didn’t bother vacuuming the wood dust before the last run, since I was using a DC bit and moved it way too fast it must have caught the corner trash.

 

[kp91]

That's a long lever arm you have there on that bit. Might be better to use a shorter bit.

 

[Router is still my name]

Well, It's completed for now. Just have to add extension wings and that's it.
Any way I found out what caused the router bit mess. It was the brass template getting loose and caught the router bit. it almost happened again today while using a small 3/8 bit.

 

[Hamlin]

Ouch!! The good thing is you aren't injured. Nice lookin table so far.

 

[Bob N]

Bob is always stressing to tighten the brass inserts "very" "finger" tight on the show. I think you have just shown us why he puts such importance on that issue.

Glad you weren't hurt and made the best of the situation in the end.

 

[Router is still my name]

Thank you all. I did tighten the bass insert but is seems they get loose as bad as regular none brass templates.
At least this time the bit got stuck in the wood. The last time this happened to me back in 93, I was using a ¾ inch straight bit and it broke and it flew passed my let eye with no eye protection.

 

[Dr.Zook]

Thank you all. I did tighten the bass insert but is seems they get loose as bad as regular none brass templates.
At least this time the bit got stuck in the wood. The last time this happened to me back in 93, I was using a ¾ inch straight bit and it broke and it flew passed my let eye with no eye protection.

That is one nice looking tabe you have there. BUT maybe you should change your name to "Lucky is still my name." Glad you were not hurt either time. From working in an auto factory and being required to wear safety glasses at all times. I know the danger of not wearing eye protection. You should have eye protection on any time you have something spinning. Continue to be "SAFE" and keep turning out those good looking projects.

 

[mpphoto]

That's a serious table you've built there. I'd love to hear some details. Is that a Benchdog fence you've attached the bullet-proof hunks of UHMW to?

Michael

 

[Router is still my name]

Thanks Michael and the rest for kind words. I decided after struggling with high-end commercial table (which I shall not name), it was time to build my own table that would meet my strange working habits/needs and avoid all the shortcomings I’d experienced with commercial tables when working with large projects.
For starters, I wanted a higher and heavier stand that had much more support in the middle so the stand is at 41” high.
As far as tabletop, I wanted a large table. I’ve never liked the traditional design where the plate is either mounted in the center or too close to the miter track, to me that is the waste of Tabletop real estate so the plate sets 15” center from front and 9” from back that gives me the 15” I need on front for large projects that I mostly work on.

I decided on Benchdog Profence after looking at several other ones including Jessem. It’s 24” x 36” that gives me enough room to mount the additional wings for in-feed and out-feed.
Bench dog fence is very accurate and heavy construction and it has the perfect design. It can be used with side clamps on 32” table or the way I use it with 36” table. What I really liked about it is the out-feed has the built in shim design for joinery. It can be set for removing 1/32” or 1/16” stock by placing the shims in the right slots. The bullet- proof 2”x4” UHMW, I cut my self and installed a jig track. The 2” thick gives me the option to keep those
3½ bits a way from the fence and it just looks scary.

The cutouts for the fence are rounded off so no work will catch the edges as I have seen with the imbedded track designs. Also the out-feed of the miter track is rounded off more than the inside for the same reason.

I chose the woodpecker aluminum plate because it simply is the best design with the interchangeable insert rings that come in 11 sizes and it’s 3/8” thick aluminum ( no worry as far as sagging) and it comes with predrilled holes for the router. I use the Original Dewalt DW625 which has a much larger base opening for super large bits with it . I had to drill additional hole for the router Raizer. Also they sell the ¾” MDF cut out template that I used to cut the hole and ended up destroying with that broken bit. That’s being repaired now. The track is also from them. So, there you have it. I just have to add the wings next but for now I have eaten enough MDF dust to keep me
Away from MDF.

 

[mpphoto]

Thanks for the play by play. I'm loving my current Freud table/fence but looking to build another one (because otherwise I'd have to do something worthwhile like fix the house). I like the idea of a hardboard top and may give it a try (I'm assuming that's hardboard?). I also recently decided on the Benchdog fence for the new table after looking at lots of fences. I like the idea of using the side clamps so as not to have to put channels in my table. I have some pieces of uhmw to make subfences but haven't tried cutting/routing it yet.

Thanks again,
Michael

 

[Mike]

A quick suggestion for the sliding fence sections, you should cut an 1/8" chamfer on the front bottom edge to help with dust removal. It's a small thing but it does make a difference. This design idea comes from Woodsmith and Kreg and I used it on the fence i built. No sawdust build up to push your work piece away from the fence.

 

[Router is still my name]

Can't go wrong with Benchdog 36". Amazon has the best deals. again, if it's used with standard 32" table you will not need the channels. and yes it is a hardboard.

Originally I wanted to use a Formica very nice and smooth (eye candy wood pattern). But they didn’t want to cut a 48x 32 piece and I have no way of getting a whole sheet home so I though what the heck. Will do with what I have. Now I’m kind of glad I didn’t use the gorgeous Formica because I would never use the router table then only admire it ;-)

 

[Hamlin]

Looks like someone was truly thinking ahead with this project. :sold:

 

[mpphoto]

Ok RISMN, a couple more quick questions and I promise to let this thread go...

Did you use contact cement or yellow glue to attach the hardboard top?
What did you put on the hardboard for protection? (everyone knows you shouldn't have unprotected routing or you could get a disease).

I may be the only person on the planet who likes hardboard and doesn't llike formica so I think I'll give it a whirl.

Thanks for all of the info!
Michael

 

[Router is still my name]

I ended up using what I always use. Gorilla Glue spread even and thin over the MDF.
I stay away from all types of yellow glues (Just my preference). The gorilla gives the longest working time and withstands heat and humidity better than other glues.
Nothing on the hardboard for protection (Just anti mosquito spray). I may add the Formica at some later date but not sure since I’ve already started on the next project and that will take few months to complete.

 

[Router is still my name]

:d

 

[mpphoto]

Thank you kindly
Gonna go make me a router table...
mp

 

[Router is still my name]

Enjoy