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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
The bit I was using tonight was a keyhole bit with 2 flutes. With double fluted bits like this one, since both sides of the bit are cutting the wood, how do you decide which way to feed the wood in order to minimize the risk of kickback?

If the fence is behind the bit, would you feed it left to right since the bit spins counterclockwise and the cutting face passes the fence right to left?
 

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I would go left to right. The leading radius is doing all the cutting and it should force the router towards the fence.
 

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Chris, routing a keyhole it's plunge, move forward,keep the router plunged and bring it back to the starting position before retracting the bit. When routing a groove, it matters not which direction you move the router, however, when routing the inside of a circle, the router must be moved in a clockwise direction which means when routing externally, the router moves anti-clockwise. After some practice it becomes automatic, rather like fastening the seat belt when getting into a car, you do it without thinking about it (I hope!)
 

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HI Chris

If you are doing what I think you are doing I will suggest you use the hand router with a Vac.tube fix to the router, the key hole bit likes to fill the slot up with chips and your Vac.will help suck them out and out of the path of the bit...it can be tricky on the router table and you will get kick backs, with the hand router you move back in to the slot to clean out the chips with out fear of kick back..

Just put on your edge guide to keep the bit on the true path,just like the fence on your router table.

http://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/33909-anyone-make-t-track-keyhole-bit.html
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The bit I was using tonight was a keyhole bit with 2 flutes. With double fluted bits like this one, since both sides of the bit are cutting the wood, how do you decide which way to feed the wood in order to minimize the risk of kickback?

If the fence is behind the bit, would you feed it left to right since the bit spins counterclockwise and the cutting face passes the fence right to left?
 

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If it's a T track that you're routing, then I'd suggest that you make a pass with a straight bit first, it makes going through with the keyhole bit so much easier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
yes, bob you are right, it is for a track. question about doing it freehand ... with a narrow piece (say 1 1/2" wide), how would i secure it so it won't move while routing it ... wedge it between wider pieces the same thickness and then clamp the whole thing to the table top?
 

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Hi Chris

I use the ski setup most of the time for parts like that,The wedge way or cam way.

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yes, bob you are right, it is for a track. question about doing it freehand ... with a narrow piece (say 1 1/2" wide), how would i secure it so it won't move while routing it ... wedge it between wider pieces the same thickness and then clamp the whole thing to the table top?
 

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Skis would be the best way. But, if you don't have them made... YET..., you could clamp a board the same thickness as your stock on either side and adjust your edge guide accordingly.
Follow Harry's advice, about cutting a dado first. And, Bob's about keeping the groove clear.
 
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