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Dovetail jig comparison testing

29K views 56 replies 32 participants last post by  OldEd  
#1 ·
We get a lot of questions about which dovetail jig works best or how to make adjustments to them. As a result we will start reviewing the different types of dovetail jigs in this thread. We will include photos and thoughts from the Detroit area forum members as we work with them. All of the jigs work but some are easier to use than others. I am posting this now to give forum members a chance to ask questions about the different jigs so we can try to answer them.
 
#3 ·
Make sure you include the Gifkins Jig, Mike.......:yes4:
 
#5 · (Edited)
James, I will try to get a Gifkins jig.

Mark, the HF jig is identical to the first Rockler jig and we have one of those available for the test.

I am sad to announce that Leigh does not wish to participate in the testing. At least their web site has a lot of information.

We will be testing the Katie Jig Jr. It is a version of the popular full sized model designed for use with materials from 1/8" to 1/2" thickness.
 

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#57 · (Edited)
Katie jig NOT new



I would like to point out that the Katie Jig, or the "junior" version of it, is nothing more than a rip-off of the Keller Jig, which has been on the market for many, many years. I've had - and used - one for the past 15 years and am quite happy with it. All that the maker of the "Katie Jig" has done it to PHOTOGRAPH it, and demonstrate it, upside down. This was always possible with the Keller jig - I've done it myself about half the time.

I guess Dave's patent has run out, which accounts for the flood of rip-offs.

Having had a patent ripped off myself, I fully sympathize with Dave Keller, and I wish that people would give him the credit that he's due.

One thing that the Leigh jig and a whole bunch of others CAN'T do is make DT's of UNLIMITED length. Another is make DT's on curved edges. A third is make CANTED DT's: i.e. make a join between two boards at other than 90 degrees, as in a box with slanted sides.

AND it definitely isn't Sommerfeld's.
 
#6 ·
I am pleased to announce that Woodrat will be included in the dovetail jig testing.
 
#7 ·
I got the newer HF dovetail machine, which has an aluminum template. I've read that this has rather sharp edges that will need to sanded off, but should work fine after that is done. I am still not really sure how I can make box joints with square insides on the board that the router would run on. Generally, cylindrical bits create a radius cut on their edge - or am I missing something?
 
#9 ·
Hi Mark...had the same issue with making box joints...took a hint from the General I have...I did one board at a time with consideration for the offset...worked good if you measure accurately when the second board goes in. I'm thinking if the wood is thin enough you could do both by lining up the offset. Mine came with the aluminum template and it did have sharp edges but not enough to worry...the bearing rode smoothly...

Nick
 
#10 ·
"It is a great thing you do"...thanks...Nick
 
#12 ·
I know what a "dovetail" is, have seen videos on Youtube, Woodsmith magazine and other places on how to make them, but for the life of me I haven't been able to bring myself to buy an expensive jig for occasional use.

Watching you....................
 
#14 ·
the gifkin'g jig is the one i have, boutht it when they first came out from
Roger , it is the easeyest to use, 2 set ups and perfect every time cut's tales and pin's , by just turning the jig aroung, I have 2 tables with 2 bits, so i cut tales and than go over to the next table and cut the pin's , done, i bet i can cut and be done before most can use other jig's.This one may cost more but in time it save's me, i use every day my 2 cent's
 
#15 ·
The Gifkins jig and the Katie Jig are almost the same. There is one major difference: with the Gifkins jig you use a fixed template plate for your dovetail spacing; if you want different spacing you must buy another template plate. You can adjust the Katie jig... no additional purchase required for different spacing.

My two heaters can not overpower the cold temps we are having so the testing is on hold for a bit. If you have questions about the different jigs please post them here and we will get to them asap.
 
#21 ·
Mike,
Do you think that the Incra Jig will or is qualified to be one of the jigs in you compariason plans or it so differenct from a dedicated jig that you will not consider it as a main line jig? I for one, really like the Incra but have never used anything else so I am not qualified to say anything one way or another.

Jerry
 
#24 ·
Welcome to the forum Stan.

I can't speak for Mike's test, but 3 months ago i bought an old Incra Pro (16") for my router table. Hasn't been warm enough to do much, but i like it a lot for what i have gotten to do. So much so that i added a Wonder Fence, and last Friday a 32" TS-LS arrived and is waiting to be installed on the table saw--to which another router table will be added.

Side note--the guy i bought the Incra Pro from threw in a few other items which included an Incra Gauge. It would be much improved if the scale had some kind of contrast so i could read it, but it's a great little tool that i find myself reaching for all the time.

earl
 
#25 ·
Earl,
thanks for your opinion that was just what I was hoping to hear. I got the 32 TS LS table saw combo 3. It was an investment but when you think of all the things it will replace it is much cheaper than buying all the others and it has to be so much more precise, faster and easier than anything else. Really looking forward to getting it set up and working with it. I also got the set of Incra rules. VERY pricey but wow I have already realized that they are really the way to go for exact measurements. I am just now turning my garage into a shop so I've been spending all my time building a hang on rail storage system on the walls, running new electric and putting up piping for the dust collector. I have a new DC on order which should be arriving in about another week. I also ordered the MLCS motorized power lift which is on back order till March 31 and my son has the table saw at his house. So it will be sometime during the first part of April before I can get it all together. Once I get these all in I will be ready to roll.
 
#26 ·
Akeda dovetail jig

Regarding higher priced jigs, I've been looking into the Akeda version. I hope this one makes the test list. Elsewhere, it got good reviews and was indicated to require less of a "re-learning" curve for the owner than, for example, the Leigh.

It'd be nice to add to the article information supporting the fact better tools (e.g., more user friendly and versatile) tend to get used more than their cheaper counterparts, so are less inclined to remain "used-once-in-a-while tools. A good comparison might be when one jumps from an old Craftsman band saw to a Powermatic, Grizzly or other vastly improved upon
 
#28 ·
Gary, the weather is finally warm enough for us to make sawdust again. Having my internet down for a couple weeks sure didn't help any. Things are in motion again so be patient.
 
#30 ·
Not all router bits are made the same

I have three different types of dove tail jigs. the Keller, the Rockler and the Jointech. I actually haven't tried the Jointech yet; but I have made a lot of joints on the Rockler and the Keller. I've had a lot of trouble with joints that are too tight. I tried all kinds of adjustments and finally resorted to a light sanding before assembly to loosen the joints. It wasn't until I read the Jointech literature that I found the answer. Most router bits are made just a few thousands of an inch under sized. I don't know why. Jointech recommended re-cutting the joints one or two thousands of an inch off to solve the too tight issue. I haven't tried it yet, but it makes sense. The next time I use one of these jigs, I plan to cut the joint once; if it's too tight, Ill re-jig it and make a second pass just a hair off. :jester:
 
#31 ·
Hi Ron

Here's a little trick that works, shim the backer board out by a little bit,on the dovetail bit side..The keller and the katie jig are almost the same but the katie can be adjusted for dif.pattens.. use some counter top stock for your shim stock..

==

I have three different types of dove tail jigs. the Keller, the Rockler and the Jointech. I actually haven't tried the Jointech yet; but I have made a lot of joints on the Rockler and the Keller. I've had a lot of trouble with joints that are too tight. I tried all kinds of adjustments and finally resorted to a light sanding before assembly to loosen the joints. It wasn't until I read the Jointech literature that I found the answer. Most router bits are made just a few thousands of an inch under sized. I don't know why. Jointech recommended re-cutting the joints one or two thousands of an inch off to solve the too tight issue. I haven't tried it yet, but it makes sense. The next time I use one of these jigs, I plan to cut the joint once; if it's too tight, Ill re-jig it and make a second pass just a hair off. :jester:
 
#32 ·
I have the incra ls 25.With this system you simply raise or lower the bit th change the fit. "heighten to tighten, lower to loosen".Could not be simpler, especially when coupled with the accuracy and simplicity of height adjustments with a incra lift