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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Through DoveTail Jig for the Router Table
Or
For the hand/Plunge Router

See Link below for more details ▼
http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/755-has-anyone-ever-tried-make-dovetail-jig-2.html

New link to the Katie jig on the Sommerfeldtools web site.
http://www.mailwareweb.com/sommerfeld/item.asp?n=KJ&f=1
http://www.katiejig.com/

I did rework the Katie Jig because it didn't come with the board clamp that they now show as a add on item.
And the stop blocks on the top, it will now will let you set it up true and sq. for both sides at the same time.

Just a side note*** Look at the router bits in the box you will see a O-Ring under the lock ring, this keeps the lock ring from dropping down if the set screw comes out when you are using the bit,this is just a safe guard, the little set screws have a way of coming out at the wrong time.
( set screws,,,just two treads hold them in place and they strip easy)
And the router bit will nail your jig if it drops. :(

I used 4ea. 3/4" thick x 4" wide x 19" long Poplar milled down to the 2 7/8" wide that's called for the in setup guide, for the Main part and Hard Maple 4/4 for the other parts. (clamps and knobs)
If you need any more info PLEASE just ask . :)

For the T-Bolts I used 5/16-18 sq. nuts and some full thread rod and some super glue (thick type) total cost for the 3 1/4" long T-bolts .20 cents ea.

To do 1/4" or 3/8" stock just flip the slide block over on the top so the stock can be clamped in place without the slide block hanging down over the main block.
You will still have the slide block to keep it true on both side.
Just put a " X " on the inside of stock when you make the pins and pockets and they will all come out right on the button with almost no sanding .

You can also use the straight slots on one side of the jig to make Box Joints on the router table. (small and big ones,(slots) up to 18" long in one setup :)



Bj :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Router

Yep they are (MLCS plates) Made one or two like the Katie jig for about 1/4 the price:) and they should work great on large case work like a blanket chess, etc. without buying more parts from the Mfg. like Katie.

Still need to pick up some 3/8" I.D. x 1" springs to hold the clamp bars out a bit but other than that they are done and ready to go to work. :)

see links on page 2 on this forum for the plates.
http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/755-has-anyone-ever-tried-make-dovetail-jig-2.html


TWITA = That's What I'm Talkin' About

Bj :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi Router

They will do up to 1 1/8" thick on the small one and up to 1 3/8" on the big one, just need to move the plate and lock it down with the wood screw in the base plate,the pins are always the same it's the pocket that needs to be deeper so it lines up at the corners .
They use a 3/4" dovetail bit and a 3/8" bit for the pockets.

Did you make a new box jig or just a update to the Oak-Park one ?

Bj :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Hi Router

That's a long jig :) looks like a 24" ?, that's what John need to make his bird houses .
Where did you get it ?, and how much did it set you back if you don't mind telling. :)
1/2" ? or 3/8" max ? 5/8" wide slot ?
Looks like it gets smaller as it goes to the right or is that just the picture ?

Bj :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Thanks Router for the feed back :)

I like it :), I like it alot I just hate seeing new tools that I want and so does my BOSS :) hahahaha LOL.
I just added a new item for my wish list for Xmax. the BOSS said well maybe she bugs me all year long for a list and when I find one. see always will say maybe hahahahahahaha, can't live with them and you can't live without them ...I just want a yes or no, I hate MAYBE it drives me nuts.... :) :) :)

Anyway thanks for the info and my BOSS said thanks also :)

Bj :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Router

That's the best way to break them in, LOL take them to the HD and Rockler but in turn she takes me to the shoe store and see lets me drive/push the cart at the food store and the sewing supply stores :)

She has put up with me for 44 years and taking them to the wood working stores works for me in that way when I need a item I can send her off to get it ,she knows the store just like I do. :)
Plus when I ask to pickup something for me she gets just what I want without buying all the extra stuff I pickup when I go.
As far romance she gets flowers 4 times a year the norm and night out now and then without a stop at the tool store. :)
She could care less about wood working just like I care less about her sewing and making blankets, last year she made 26 blankets for Xmax. and did a great job on all of them and I made a ton of wood toys.

Have a good weekend
Bj :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
TWITA Router :)

Looks good ,nice job :) do you clamp it to the side of the bench or on top on the bench right next to the edge . ?, do you have " L" brackets on the back side to hold it down to the top ?




Router is still my name said:
Onward with training them. :D

Here's the upgraded version Bj.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Router

I ran the 1/2" shank around in my head for a day or so and decided on the 1/4" because you need to use a 5/8" brass guide with the MLCS jigs and the 1/2" shank would be just a bit to close, it's true that a 1/16" is good as a mile when it comes to routers and bits but because you are using a 3/4" dovetail bit well it's just a bit to tight for me, all it takes is a small bump from the shank/bit and the Alum. jig is junk or the brass guide is junk if the bit breaks the brass lock nut free, hang on for a free ride on the demo router express. :(

Note about the box joint template....
"This box joint template is going for around $60 these days."
Can't find the big/long one I found the (17 slot) 24" for 59.oo bucks with free shipping but no luck yet on the long one (25 slots) .:)

http://www.amazon.com/Porter-Cable-.../ref=sr_1_16/002-0302636-3477615?ie=UTF8&s=hi

So if you have a link PLEASE let me know, thanks
Also can you please check your Template for a part number sometimes PC will stamp a part number in them ,that would help looking for it or a call to the service center if all eles fails,but it would be a high price item from them I'm sure. :)

Bj :)


Router is still my name said:
Well, Bj is the jig MEISTER. :D

But MLCS has greate deal on both dovetail templates so go for it Michael.
Although I would get the 1/2 shank combo.

jigs are like router bits,you can never have enough. :)

This box joint template is going for around $60 these days.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Hi Router

Thanks for the info :)

Looks like they don't made the 28" one any more :(

Snapshot ▼ from the PC User Manual. (PDF File)

Bj :)

I didn't know they made a add on fixture so one could made sliding dovetail on the PC jig, learn something new every day . :)

see snapshots below ▼
 

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Discussion Starter · #21 · (Edited)
Hey Router

Router

Just a update :)
See snapshot below, Now I need to make a jig so I can use it on the router table and the bench top.
Note***in order to use it on the roter table, must use a 1/2" wide bit with a 5/8" O.D. bearing on the bit or a 5/8' Brass O.D. guide with 1/2" bit in the router.

Bj :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 · (Edited)
Hi Router

Yep that's it, right off Amazons shelf to my door step ..:)

Just got the jig done today so I can use it on the router table .
Plus I can still use it on the work bench if they are not over 32' long ( form the floor to the top of the work bench thing) I still want to make some out riggers to help me support the 48" boards that I want to use down the road. (big blanket chess).
I got the Alum.pipe for the out riggers just need to make some slide and clamp jigs to hold it sq. to the router table top. :)
The chess is going to be made out of Cherry Vin.Plywood with 45deg. ends that have the 1/2" box joint put in them b/4 the box joints are cut to a 45deg.
Should be tricky joint at best because of the plywood.. :) :) 1/8" MDF on both sides of the plywood to help stop rip out...
Bj :)

Bj :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 · (Edited)
Hi Router

I'm a bit slow today ,tell me more about the 5/8" block .
I can see using a 5/8" block and has a 1/2" part that would set up the next slot pass.
Made out of hardwood . see below, a pair of them.
Plus one to make the 3/8" Off Set. ( 1/4" thick X 1.05 wide)

Bj :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Thanks Router

Got it, sometimes I'm brain dead and I need to be hit with a hammer to get it down. :)

"There are three kinds of people:
The ones that learn by reading, The few who learn by observation, and the rest of them who have to touch the fire to see for themselves if it's really hot."

Sometimes I need to touch the fire :) :)




Bj :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 · (Edited)
Router is still my name said:
Thanks Bj........
You're Welcome Router

Here's quick snapshot of the jig, it's ready to go to work :)

NOTE the sq.knobs who said they need to be round :)
with a Tee-nut that has the points cut off,so they can't split the wood when you drive them in the knob and by using the right drill bit the tee nuts will stay right in place.
I use 5/16-18 tee nuts most of the time and use a number " S " or " T " drill bit for the barrel of the tee nuts. :)
Total cost for a knob is about .08 cents and some scrap hardwood.
4 knobs in 5 mins. or less :)

Bj :)
 

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