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Discussion Starter · #21 · (Edited)
Hey Router

Router

Just a update :)
See snapshot below, Now I need to make a jig so I can use it on the router table and the bench top.
Note***in order to use it on the roter table, must use a 1/2" wide bit with a 5/8" O.D. bearing on the bit or a 5/8' Brass O.D. guide with 1/2" bit in the router.

Bj :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 · (Edited)
Hi Router

Yep that's it, right off Amazons shelf to my door step ..:)

Just got the jig done today so I can use it on the router table .
Plus I can still use it on the work bench if they are not over 32' long ( form the floor to the top of the work bench thing) I still want to make some out riggers to help me support the 48" boards that I want to use down the road. (big blanket chess).
I got the Alum.pipe for the out riggers just need to make some slide and clamp jigs to hold it sq. to the router table top. :)
The chess is going to be made out of Cherry Vin.Plywood with 45deg. ends that have the 1/2" box joint put in them b/4 the box joints are cut to a 45deg.
Should be tricky joint at best because of the plywood.. :) :) 1/8" MDF on both sides of the plywood to help stop rip out...
Bj :)

Bj :)
 

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TWITA Bj :D

Be very careful attempting 48” long boards on the table. The weight will have the tendency to tilt the template and also might scratch the table. It was a lot easier and faster for me to do four 50 inch sides on my current project just free-hand. Using the table is good on the small projects.
Here’s a tip, use a brass block 5/8 to offset a slot when cutting the pins on two sides and top and bottom and then when you remove the brass block you can do the tails and they will all align perfecto...


Onward with box joints :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 · (Edited)
Hi Router

I'm a bit slow today ,tell me more about the 5/8" block .
I can see using a 5/8" block and has a 1/2" part that would set up the next slot pass.
Made out of hardwood . see below, a pair of them.
Plus one to make the 3/8" Off Set. ( 1/4" thick X 1.05 wide)

Bj :)
 

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Bj, have a look at the 3rd pic on this link I posted a while back.

http://www.routerforums.com/show-n-tell/3264-perfect-box-joints.html

I use a 5/8 brass bar to align the boards initially and make the first cuts. (5/8 is the same size as the template spaces which when you use ½ router bit gives ½” box joints) . Then for the top and bottom or side to side I add a ½ brass bar which offsets all the cuts by exact ½.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Thanks Router

Got it, sometimes I'm brain dead and I need to be hit with a hammer to get it down. :)

"There are three kinds of people:
The ones that learn by reading, The few who learn by observation, and the rest of them who have to touch the fire to see for themselves if it's really hot."

Sometimes I need to touch the fire :) :)




Bj :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 · (Edited)
Router is still my name said:
Thanks Bj........
You're Welcome Router

Here's quick snapshot of the jig, it's ready to go to work :)

NOTE the sq.knobs who said they need to be round :)
with a Tee-nut that has the points cut off,so they can't split the wood when you drive them in the knob and by using the right drill bit the tee nuts will stay right in place.
I use 5/16-18 tee nuts most of the time and use a number " S " or " T " drill bit for the barrel of the tee nuts. :)
Total cost for a knob is about .08 cents and some scrap hardwood.
4 knobs in 5 mins. or less :)

Bj :)
 

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