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Hello all!

I tried searching the existing posts on several forums, but I haven't found anything answering or related to this; so maybe I'm thinking the wrong way.

At any rate, I am in the market for a dovetail jig/fixture. Being that the boss says I can't spend a lot of money, that limits the width of the machine. So, If I purchase a 16" Sears through dovetail machine, how would I go about routing stock greater than 16" (or max size)?

I'm fairly new to woodworking, but the only solution I can think of is to route the stock in smaller pieces. I.e. I want to end up with a 36" wide stock, so I route 3 pieces @ 12" and then glue the pieces to form a 36" piece.

Of course, I see issues with this, I.e. ensuring each piece matches correctly.

So what do you pro's do in this case?

Best regards,

Rick
 

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bobj3 said:
Hi Rick

To do this type of job I would use (buy) 3 of the MLSC jigs and screw them to a block.
End to End ,they come in 15" or 16"
Pins & Tails Through Dovetail Templates
long....

Something like below but with 3 on a block.

Bj :)
Bob,

Instead of buying 3 jigs for the desired width,
do you think it's possible to use just ONE jig to do it... Route one set, move the jig over... overlapping a previous cut for proper alignment, & routing some more... etc. ??
 

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Hi Joe

It would be a hard one,,,, :) every time he would move the jig over the mounting holes would be off just a bit and that would kill the joint, they must be right from the get go.
No 2nd chance ,he could make alot of 36" wide firewood....in a heart beat...one joint off just a bit would kill the joint at glue up...
You know how screws are they like to take a new path every time you take them out and put them back in, plus they can't hold as well the 2nd or 3rd time in.

Bj :)

Joe Lyddon said:
Bob,

Instead of buying 3 jigs for the desired width,
do you think it's possible to use just ONE jig to do it... Route one set, move the jig over... overlapping a previous cut for proper alignment, & routing some more... etc. ??
 

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Rick, you didn't mention how thick your material is. If it is 3/4" or less you could use the Oak Park 3/8" box joint jig to make your dovetails. This is by far the least expensive way using a template.
 

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bobj3 said:
Hi Joe

It would be a hard one,,,, :) every time he would move the jig over the mounting holes would be off just a bit and that would kill the joint, they must be right from the get go.
No 2nd chance ,he could make alot of 36" wide firewood....in a heart beat...one joint off just a bit would kill the joint at glue up...
You know how screws are they like to take a new path every time you take them out and put them back in, plus they can't hold as well the 2nd or 3rd time in.

Bj :)
Bob,

I was not suggesting that the JIG would be changed...

Given: A block of wood with the template mounted on it.
Clamp the workpiece to it and route it...
Unclamp & just slide the workpiece over, to route some more, but overlapping a template (pin or tail) for alignment... Place router into it to be sure.
Clamp and route next segment...
Keep sliding the workpiece down, etc., until done...

Do you see what I'm trying to say now?

(no change in the jig... just the position of the workpiece to the jig)

EDIT:
Text, copied from the MLCS Free Instructions for the Through DT template:

The dovetails/pins and sockets are cut basically the same. First
clamp your stock to the side with the straight fingers centering it
between two registration lines. Mount the 3/4”, 14 degree
dovetail bit and 5/8” guide bushing in your router. Cut out the
dovetails in the stock. Next, mount your second piece of stock on
the other side of the jig, again centering it between two
registration lines. Change to a 3/8” diameter straight bit and
make your cuts. Remove the stock and test fit. Make any
adjustments and when satisfied, make permanent by driving
screws into round holes.

You can cut joints longer than the templates by simply shifting
them along the boards. With practice, you can also vary the
dovetail spacing with the same technique.


Copyright 2006 MLCS ltd. Page 21
 

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Hi Joe

I got it now, He could do it that way BUT because the bits use a 5/8" OD bearing on them it maybe tricky to get the 2nd group to line up right (setup right) ,,,1/32" is a big deal when it comes to dovetails :) and you don't know about the error until glue up time or prefit... :) and with that many dovetails a prefit could be nasty....without a BIG hammer and a block of wood :)

Bj :)
 

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Hi rjryerson

You can use the Sears jig but it will be a hard one to setup and glue up.
It takes two parts to make the joint and you are going to compound that with 3ea. 12" wide boards to get the 36" wide you need.
I'm almost you will have gaps in the stock at glue up.
You could use a T&G (on the 12" wide boards) on the edges of the boards that would help hide the gaps.

Bj :)


rjryerson said:
So I take it that it's not possible with the equipment in the original post.
 

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rjryerson said:
Hello all!

I tried searching the existing posts on several forums, but I haven't found anything answering or related to this; so maybe I'm thinking the wrong way.

At any rate, I am in the market for a dovetail jig/fixture. Being that the boss says I can't spend a lot of money, that limits the width of the machine. So, If I purchase a 16" Sears through dovetail machine, how would I go about routing stock greater than 16" (or max size)?

I'm fairly new to woodworking, but the only solution I can think of is to route the stock in smaller pieces. I.e. I want to end up with a 36" wide stock, so I route 3 pieces @ 12" and then glue the pieces to form a 36" piece.

Of course, I see issues with this, I.e. ensuring each piece matches correctly.

So what do you pro's do in this case?

Best regards,

Rick
Rick,

Without a link to Sears showing THE jig you're talking about, I couldn't comment on it specifically...

BUT...

If the the jig is basically just a template, like the MLCS one Bob mentioned, they both should be able to be used in a similar fashion.

See the MLCS jig and the Free Instructions on their website... I 'copied' some key words from their instructions.

According to their instructions, you can route through dovetails as long as you want to make them by just shifting the jig... as noted.

Hope this helps...
 

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bobj3 said:
Hi Joe

I got it now, He could do it that way BUT because the bits use a 5/8" OD bearing on them it maybe tricky to get the 2nd group to line up right (setup right) ,,,1/32" is a big deal when it comes to dovetails :) and you don't know about the error until glue up time or prefit... :) and with that many dovetails a prefit could be nasty....without a BIG hammer and a block of wood :)

Bj :)

MLCS Instructions:

You can cut joints longer than the templates by simply shifting
them along the boards. With practice, you can also vary the
dovetail spacing with the same technique.


Copyright 2006 MLCS ltd. Page 21


I think I would insert router bit into overlapped cut before clamping for the next segment's cut. :D

Wouldn't that do it?
 

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HI Joe

The key word is with "practice" once you unclamp it you have lost the indexing point,you can move it down and use clamp block for the index bt it's tricky to get it back in place for the 2nd group of pins/dovetail slots...and he it using 36" wide.. I have tried it with 20" wide 36" long boards and made some real nice looking firewood with dovetails... :)
He may want to just use the Oak-Park 1/2" box joint jigs, that can be used to make the 36" wide joints.
Bob and Rick had a show air this week (on the PBS) they made a table that was about 24" wide that used the box joints and it looked great and was a easy one to do with the Oak-Park Box jig setup.

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Hey Joe

Try it on your jig from MLCS and let me know how it works out for you :)
Take a snap shot or two so he can see how you did it : : :





Bj :)
 

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bobj3 said:
HI Joe
.... He may want to just use the Oak-Park 1/2" box joint jigs, that can be used to make the 36" wide joints.

Bob and Rick had a show air this week (on the PBS) they made a table that was about 24" wide that used the box joints and it looked great and was a easy one to do with the Oak-Park Box jig setup.
Bj :)

Yes, those Boxjoints would be a lot easier to make... FOR SURE... especially, using the Oak Park 1/2" spacer fence!!



bobj3 said:
Hey Joe
Try it on your jig from MLCS and let me know how it works out for you :)
Take a snap shot or two so he can see how you did it : : :

Bj :)
I haven't set it up yet on the mounting block, etc...

Someday, I may try it out... just for kicks... I really think I could do it. :D

Right now, I have to get my leg healed... rest of the shop cleaned up & reorganized, etc.

I want to make the Tool Tote that Roy Underhill has in one of his books for my newest grandson's 1st birthday coming in June... would like to use white oak... also planning to have a nameplate carved by the carveright machine.
 

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You might try using a stots dovetail template master. You can make your own templates, and make them as wide as you need. It's about $40. It is a little bit more work making your own templates, but if you're a little bit careful, they do make good quality joints. Look at them at http://www.stots.com/
 

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jeff12002 said:
You might try using a stots dovetail template master. You can make your own templates, and make them as wide as you need. It's about $40. It is a little bit more work making your own templates, but if you're a little bit careful, they do make good quality joints. Look at them at http://www.stots.com/

I've got the stots template master, and the thing works great. Keep an eye out for them at woodworking shows, you can sometimes get a great deal on them!
 
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