[simplenik]

Good day

I would like to share with you my method of drilling dowel holes on my crazy router table.

I'm doweling frames and carcasses precisely and quickly with 2 very simple settings.

I did not show on the pics the bit height setting but, in general I lift the bit to the required height, lock the plunge, set the plunge stop and release the plunge lock.

Another setting that is not shown is setting the fence to drill at the center of the wood thickness.
It's not so important to drill exactly at the center of the thickness, ±1/32" is ok, all the holes will be drilled at the same distance from the fence.

The numbers that you see on the spacers [4.0 and 6.0 (40mm and 60mm)] are Centimeters, I measure in cm's because that's what I see on all my measuring tapes and rulers.

Regards
niki

 

[simplenik]

 

[harrysin]

Gentlemen, what can we say about Niki? This guy certainly thinks "outside of the box" The ingenuity shown again in this latest photo-shoot is quite amazing. I'm seriously thinking of abandoning biscuits and returning to dowels now that I can toss out my forty year old dowelling jig which requires a good pair of eyes.

 

[challagan]

I would 2nd that Harry. Excellent work Niki.

Corey

 

[bobj3]

Hi Niki

I applaud your ingenuity but why don't you use a drill dress for this type of job ?
One of the many cheap counter top dress presses ($60.oo type) would work well for this type of job But I'm just asking why not. ?
Don't get me wrong I love the router but it's only one tool that's needed in the shop.
Many companies make a drill dress that can hold a hand type drill, that they sale for about 25.oo bucks or so that would work well also.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=44506
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=41345
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95223
http://www.grizzly.com/products/g8061

Bj

 

[simplenik]

Thank you so much for your kind compliments

BJ
There are a few reasons that I don't make it on the DP.

1. Drill bit is normally HSS and router bit is Carbide and makes much nicer, precise and flat-bottom hole.

2. On the DP the dust goes down into the hole while on the router table the dust goes out of the hole.

3. but the biggest problem is, how do I make the holes on the vertical members with my amateurs bench DP and sometimes I have a 55" long board.
Even with the big (stand) DP you shall have to make some jig to hold the vertical board at 90° to the drill bit and you can easily loose the "Point-to Point" with the horizontal board.

For the router table, I had to add only a piece of 2 x 4 as a pedal and two sticks cut from a broomstick.

niki

 

[bobj3]

Hi niki

1. Forstner Bit 7 Piece CARBIDE TIPPED
Spiral Set
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shop...ml/pages/forset1.htm#forstner_extender_anchor
http://cgi.ebay.com/1-DRILL-BITS-SE...8QQihZ019QQcategoryZ50383QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/Freud-Carbide-F...0QQihZ004QQcategoryZ50383QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/20-PC-FORSTNER-...6QQihZ001QQcategoryZ50386QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

2. blow out the hole with compress air b/4 you install the dowel .

3. The drillpress will run on it's side, it just take's a block under the head to hold it up,so to speak .it's just a big hand drill in away.... (horz.drill once it's on it's side.) like ShopSmith setup.

Many ways to get the job done

Just asking
"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions."
MIKE
Senior Moderator


Bj

 

[simplenik]

Hi BJ

First, let me to admire you, you have an answer to any situation.

Now,
1. Very nice set but usually the set that I have is enough for me and why to spend money.

2. So you want me to buy also an Air compressor

3. Still I shall have to build very precise jig to hold the work at 90° to the drill and "drill up", "Drill down"

See you friend, tomorrow morning (In 8 hours) I'm flying to Japan and hope to come back with some Green/Black thingy...

Best Regards
niki

 

[bobj3]

Have a GOOD Trip niki , I wish I was going to Japan too, pick me up a Hitachi as well, do you have to pay duty if you put it in your suit case ?
They also sale VERY SMALL compressors that you can get in your suit case .


Bj

 

[Joe Lyddon]

Niki did it again!!

You just gotta love that automated router lift!! :sold:

Simple Logic... SimpleNik... Ingenius solution...

Rube Goldberg would have been very proud of you!

Niki, just wonderful! Thank you...


Now, could the same thing happen upside down using a plunge router?

 

[challagan]

Have a GOOD Trip niki , I wish I was going to Japan too, pick me up a Hitachi as well, do you have to pay duty if you put it in your suit case ?
They also sale VERY SMALL compressors that you can get in your suit case .


Bj

LOL.... I like to see the airport scanner operators face on that one when he sees that on the Xray

Corey

 

[harrysin]

Bob, you should know by now that I have great respect for you and you're methods, HOWEVER, I really do have to disagree regarding using the drill press for dowelling. I have tried the drill press, the radial arm saw (blade removed,drill chuck in opposite end of spindle) and various jigs but I am convinced that Niki's idea is going to be the winner. Making a router lift will be my next project.

 

[bobj3]

Hi Harry

I will agree drilling holes with the router is a great way to drill holes for dowel pins but with a plunge router and a brass guide, Rick R. is the drill king for using the plunge router for drilling holes, he has made many jigs for doing just that.

If you get a chance to see some of his jigs you will be amaze what he can do with a brass guide and a plunge router.....


Bj

 

[challagan]

Niki's way is a very cool set up for dowels but I just don't think dowels are a lasting joint. Get a pocket hole jig Harry and don't look back Some people don't like how they look in fine furniture but you can hide them in a lot of projects Stretchers and table aprons you can't see them and even panel glue ups. A lot of factory made furniture made today is made with pocket holes technology. Glue and those screws will out last any dowel joint I think.

Harry I don't have one of these but I think they look real useful for guys that make furniture but have you ever seen the new Festool Domino? Pretty cool tool and expensive as well. . A neat way to make a mortise and uses the floating tenons. Could replace the biscuits jointer in time. Much more glue surface than a dowel gives and thus a real strong joint as well. Just thought you might like to see this link Harry or anyone that is interested:
http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com/reviews/festooldomino.htm

Well guys, I am out of here until Friday night. Headed to Palm Springs on business

 

[harrysin]

I hope you enjoy you're business trip Corey, life is hard isn't it! I've just finished reading and watching the video clips on the Domino, quite an impressive tool which I'm sure I would buy if I was still into furniture making. These days I confine myself to small items like boxes and clocks. I'll probably be past it all by the time I have great grandchildren.

 

[harrysin]

Joe, of course dowel holes can be produced with the plunge router BUT, jigs/templates are required, with Niki's method it's only a matter of holding the material against the fence and stop, what could be quicker or simpler? I'm in the process of sorting material to make the lifter, it's going to be metal, it's so easy to improve on an existing invention!

 

[challagan]

I am pretty much the same here Harry. I don't do furntiure either any more and couldn't justify the cost for a tool like that. Have a good week all, I am out of here!

Corey

 

[Joe Lyddon]

Joe, of course dowel holes can be produced with the plunge router BUT, jigs/templates are required, with Niki's method it's only a matter of holding the material against the fence and stop, what could be quicker or simpler? I'm in the process of sorting material to make the lifter, it's going to be metal, it's so easy to improve on an existing invention!

Harry, sounds like you think this jig would be a huge undertaking...

I picture it as drilling two holes in a piece of hardboard, screwing it to another board or two, place in place, clamp, and route the holes. Doesn't look all that bad to me... as an alternative.

To say nothing about installing the proper template guide on the router first... Right up your alley!

 

[bobj3]

Hi Harry

B/4 you goto all the work of marking a lifter setup, they do make SMALL elec.jacks for cars that are cheap...the last time I looked them up on ebay and harbor freight.

They will lift the router about ( 4-3/4" to 13-1/2) both ways... and with a small push button they come with it will lift the router in to place without the need for any metal parts.
Just a block at the top of the router motor to lift the router up or down.

Just one more way of doing what you want to do...


http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94491
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=36004

Bj

 

[harrysin]

It sounds expensive and slow to me Bob, with a foot pedal it's instantaneous and no limit switches needed. Bob, with you're gift for sniffing out a bargain, I'm surprised you mentioned a motor!