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DownDraft Box

8371 Views 29 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  Stick486
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Here is a downdraft box I just completed today for sanding with my ROS. I used the Rockler plan pdf. that I downloaded off their site .

http://go.rockler.com/tech/25077-Down-Draft-Ezplan2.pdf

I had a part of a sheet of prefinished 1/2"birch plywood I had bought and used for drawer sides. The box is pretty simple to build. I made my own perforated top pieces. I had built one years ago off the same plan, but they had small 1/2" holes and it cut the air flow so much ,I decided to make the holes 1' dia. spaced 1/4" apart.

I tried several drill bits to drill the holes and settled on the spade bit with the scoring ears on it.
I tried a Forstner type bit, and it cut OK from both sides, but it was slower, plugged up,was harder to exactly follow the pilot hole as the pilot point was so short.
The 2 auger type bits were the best cutters, but the threaded pilots would lift the material off table table fast.
The spade bit has a long tapered pilot that centers from both sides easily and the spurs do a good job of scoring the outside cut. I never would have guessed it ,but it worked best for drilling from both sides.

It took the longest to drill and finish all 278 holes.

The pictures tell the story.

Herb

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Barry, you might try enlarging some or all of your holes. The small holes actually cut down on the sir flow. Also they recommend beveling both sides of the holes to increase air flow. You can do that by just using a countersink.
Herb
Herb, I will enlarge the holes a bit. Since the top is pegboard the counter sink idea won't work. Had I built something like your impressive box, with a thicker top, I'd do that. Thanks for the suggestion.
Forgot to add a picture of my downdraft table. Not even close to Herb's but it's adequate for my small projects.

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Forgot to add a picture of my downdraft table. Not even close to Herb's but it's adequate for my small projects.
Try it without the mat, or a smaller mat and see if the increases the air flow. Also side boards will help like you never would have guessed.
Herb
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I think you are right. The mini ones seem to hold fine, it is the large ones like the Irwins that don't hold good, and pinch your hands, good eye.
Herb
Glad to see I'm not the only one who has trouble with Irwin! I have a couple of their clamps that I can't get to hold a dang thing! I have better luck with my HF ones, too (some of them, anyway.)
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I discovered Bessy had 4 packs of small and medium clamps a few years ago and have gradually replaced all my plastic clamps with them. Still have quite a few HF clamps, but I find my projects are less likely to be torqed out of square using the Bessy's, which have far heavier bars than the HF models of similar size. I've found the packs ranging from $20-$30, often on sale near Christmas. I have a crazy number of clamps, but the super stars are 4 sets of two Jet parallel clamps ranging from 24 to 60 inches--these make case work easier. Again, I was making far more money in those days. I have to tip toe past the clamp section now, keeping a death grip on my wallet.
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An update on my downdraft box.
I have been using it a lot for small p[projects and it works great. I have noticed a real change for the better in the amount of fine sawdust on things in the shop. I use it with a small rubber pad under the work,some of that non slip drawerliner. That decreases the noise and also keeps the wood from walking around the table top. I have found that the large holes work very well, and the removable side boards do help with concentrating the airflow on the top of the box.

Herb
and the removable side boards do help with concentrating the airflow on the top of the box.
????
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