[JIMMIEM]

I have a kitchen bottom cabinet drawer that has a rail and stile flat panel drawer front attached to a plywood box. The drawer box front and sides contact the rails less than about 1/2" in from the inner edges of the rails. The manufacturer drove screws from inside the box through the corners of the box to attach the box to the rails. I'm assuming the screws were angled to get more purchase on the drawer front rails and avoid putting the screws too close to the rail edge.
Anyway this has not held up very well and I need a better solution for attaching the drawer front. I could rig something up but I think metal mounting brackets would be quicker and easier. Can anybody recommend a good source for these? Or any other ideas?
Thank You

 

[JIMMIEM]

build a 4 sided plywood drawer...
add the face w/ box jointed returns in the shape of a U that fits over the plywood and hide the ends of the glides...
no butt joints needed...

Was this in response to a different thread? I saw one that mentioned box joints.

 

[Stick486]

Was this in response to a different thread? I saw one that mentioned box joints.

yup...
maybe a moderator can kill my posts.....

 

[JIMMIEM]

yup...
maybe a moderator can kill my posts.....

Any ideas for drawer front brackets to fix my problem? I kind of surprised and disappointed at how the front was attached.

 

[Stick486]

I have a kitchen bottom cabinet drawer that has a rail and stile flat panel drawer front attached to a plywood box. The drawer box front and sides contact the rails less than about 1/2" in from the inner edges of the rails. The manufacturer drove screws from inside the box through the corners of the box to attach the box to the rails. I'm assuming the screws were angled to get more purchase on the drawer front rails and avoid putting the screws too close to the rail edge.
Anyway this has not held up very well and I need a better solution for attaching the drawer front. I could rig something up but I think metal mounting brackets would be quicker and easier. Can anybody recommend a good source for these? Or any other ideas?
Thank You

WTB the angled screws were just sloppiness..
this shortened their length so you have a lot less bite...
get the right length WOOD screws and redo them...
use a liberal amount of DS tape too...

 

[JIMMIEM]

WTB the angled screws were just sloppiness..
this shortened their length so you have a lot less bite...
get the right length WOOD screws and redo them...
use a liberal amount of DS tape too...

Must have been close to quitting time.....they used dry wall screws. Going into the corner could be tricky...the plywood corners are box joints that are loose in spots.....maybe need to firm them up with corner blocking and run the screws through the blocking.

 

[Stick486]

Must have been close to quitting time.... they used dry wall screws. Going into the corner could be tricky...the plywood corners are box joints that are loose in spots.....maybe need to firm them up with corner blocking and run the screws through the blocking.

that explains much.. had a feeling that's what they used.. that's why I said WOOD SCREWS...
a kant gusset instead of block... more gooder..
w/ DS tape and the handle screws will be all ya need to hold the front...
a couple four wood screws placed conveniently in the rails and/or stiles will be overkill...

 

[TWheels]

@JIMMIEM, I'm having a hard time visualizing these drawers. Would it be possible to post a picture?
I am trying to build drawers myself with Baltic Birch plywood and intend to use drawer lock joints, so I wonder if that is possible for you?

 

[Stick486]

@JIMMIEM, I'm having a hard time visualizing these drawers. Would it be possible to post a picture?
I am trying to build drawers myself with Baltic Birch plywood and intend to use drawer lock joints, so I wonder if that is possible for you?

use rebated rabbets w/ BB... simple, double or T&G...
easy, accurate, simple, self squaring, strong and last a very long time....
and there's nothing like a shoulder plane when you build joints...
pins are you need to mechanical the joint.. they act as clamps while the glue dries...

.

 

[JIMMIEM]

@JIMMIEM, I'm having a hard time visualizing these drawers. Would it be possible to post a picture?
I am trying to build drawers myself with Baltic Birch plywood and intend to use drawer lock joints, so I wonder if that is possible for you?

These are commercially made drawers.....the rail and stile flat panel front is attached to the plywood box. The rail and stile flat panel front looks like a cabinet door but is attached to the plywood drawer box.

 

[JIMMIEM]

that explains much.. had a feeling that's what they used.. that's why I said WOOD SCREWS...
a kant gusset instead of block... more gooder..
w/ DS tape and the handle screws will be all ya need to hold the front...
a couple four wood screws placed conveniently in the rails and/or stiles will be overkill...

I'm not familiar with the term kant gusset....I make my blocks from 1 inch square poplar or maple and rip a 45 degree angle on them and glue them into the corners....just pin them while the glue dries. The handle screws just go through the top rail. The drawer is for a rubbish and recycle baskets so the plywood box is only half the height of the cabinet opening and the front is an 'overlay' style.

 

[Stick486]

I'm not familiar with the term kant gusset....I make my blocks from 1 inch square poplar or maple and rip a 45 degree angle on them and glue them into the corners....just pin them while the glue dries. The handle screws just go through the top rail. The drawer is for a rubbish and recycle baskets so the plywood box is only half the height of the cabinet opening and the front is an 'overlay' style.

kant gusset.. 45° triangle shaped piece of material.. (blunt/shave/trim off the sharp edges/corners)...

 

[JIMMIEM]

kant gusset.. 45° triangle shaped piece of material.. (blunt/shave/trim off the sharp edges/corners)...

Got it. That's what I thought you were referring to. I figured I'd glue some along the inside of the box corners to help reinforce the loose box corner joints and run the screws through them, the box corner, and then the stiles. Sound like a plan? Or get some right angle brackets and attach them to the outer surface of the box side(s) and the rails?

 

[Stick486]

skip the brackets will ya....
fix the corners 1st... add the gussets - you can't beat the glue and pins in this department..
live and breathe KISS/MISS....

 

[JIMMIEM]

skip the brackets will ya....
fix the corners 1st... add the gussets - you can't beat the glue and pins in this department..
live and breathe KISS/MISS....

OK. No brackets. Corner gussets, glue, pins, and wood screws.

 

[JIMMIEM]

skip the brackets will ya....
fix the corners 1st... add the gussets - you can't beat the glue and pins in this department..
live and breathe KISS/MISS....

#8 wood screws ok or would you recommend #10?
Thank You.

 

[Stick486]

#8...
and don't forget the DS tape...

 

[Stick486]

FWIW...
I use these... modified truss head and modified truss head cabinet screws... also referred to as a K lath...
thread type is dictated by wood species and the truss head won't pull through and doesn't split the wood like a FHWS might...
there is a reason cabinet screws have this type of head...

.

 

[JIMMIEM]

#8...
and don't forget the DS tape...

I've got a roll of DS tape....packaging is gone so I don't remember the exact brand/type. I do use it to attach templates when routing and it holds really well. Do you have a particular brand in mind? I was thinking Gaffer's tape but don't know if it comes in DS.

 

[JIMMIEM]

FWIW...
I use these... modified truss head and modified truss head cabinet screws... also referred to as a K lath...
thread type is dictated by wood species and the truss head won't pull through and doesn't split the wood like a FHWS might...
there is a reason cabinet screws have this type of head...

.

and these...

.

these too...

.

Brand names? I've used SPAX and GRK. Both have this type of head and are self tapping.