Try this:
Herb
Herb
I am building some drawers right now and first I tried the lock miter bit on the BB sides and it gave me terrible tear out on the bottom face of the board i.e. the face laying down on the router table top.. So I went to the drawer lock bit and it was the same, so ended up putting my dado blade on the TS and that worked great making a rabbet. I usually use solid wood for drawer sides, just never have good luck with BB plywood with dovetails,box joints ,lock miters,or drawer lock bits. Rabbets on TS are no problem.Looks like Herb showed a great set up pic, never had much luck with my bit using plywood.
The problem I had was on the board lieing face down on the router table ,it was backed up on back edge. In the center of the cut the face of the plywood was ripped out,the back edge was fine ,no tear out there. No tear out in solid wood sides and backs/fronts.Just finished 100 22x22" shop drawers of various heights with the Whiteside bit (1/2 ply, B/C, normal big box quality). Comments:
Pros:
- Nice joint with occasional tear out. Use a sacrificial pushblock to avoid tear out on back of cut. Typically the tear out was in the middle of the cut, so it glues up ok and isn't visible.
- Easy glue up. I used ratcheting straps with outside rounded-over corner block (x4), pulled up nicely and completely. Was able to glue 8 drawers at time (I'm cheap, only 8 ratchet straps, which have gotten spendy).
- Strong glue-only joint, looks nice, covers the drawer dados completely.
- Protip: the Rockler Silicone glue brush is genius for this, quick and easy glue spreading, easy cleanup, even if you 'forget'.
Cons:
- The Whiteside bit is a 2 setup bit, one for fronts and another (fence only) for sides. Not a huge con as the depth is the same for both.
- Tedious to rout each side of all joints (100 drawers x 8 = 800 router passes)
thanks...Just finished 100 22x22" shop drawers of various heights with the Whiteside bit (1/2 ply, B/C, normal big box quality). Comments:
Pros:
- Nice joint with occasional tear out. Use a sacrificial pushblock to avoid tear out on back of cut. Typically the tear out was in the middle of the cut, so it glues up ok and isn't visible.
- Easy glue up. I used ratcheting straps with outside rounded-over corner block (x4), pulled up nicely and completely. Was able to glue 8 drawers at time (I'm cheap, only 8 ratchet straps, which have gotten spendy).
- Strong glue-only joint, looks nice, covers the drawer dados completely.
- Protip: the Rockler Silicone glue brush is genius for this, quick and easy glue spreading, easy cleanup, even if you 'forget'.
Cons:
- The Whiteside bit is a 2 setup bit, one for fronts and another (fence only) for sides. Not a huge con as the depth is the same for both.
- Tedious to rout each side of all joints (100 drawers x 8 = 800 router passes)