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Drawer Slides - newb looking for some advice

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B

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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Everyone!

I haven't posted or commented much but I really enjoy this site!

I am currently working on my first shop, (8x14). I been researching uTube, pinterest, google .... and of course here. I am a little stuck on a decision on drawer slides. Sooo many options!!!

I have planned approx. 20 drawers (prob many more later) ranging from (hxwxd) 2"-8"x 20"-30"x24". I don't plan on any excessive weight, a nice clean look, easy slide, full extension of the drawer, and be able to hold the weight while it's fully extended. I'm on the OCD side so my whole shop will have to be using the same slides.

My biggest issue is budget! I love the Ball bearing drawer slides, (like these https://www.lowes.ca/drawer-hardware/richelieu-richelieu-2-pack-full-extension-24-in-slides_g2856350.html?searchTerm=ball-bearing-drawer-slide) but at $20-$30 a pair puts it on the expensive side. I don't mind the challenge of creating my own as long as I don't loose drawer space or are very time consuming.

Let's hear your suggestions! (creative and KISS)
 
Cherryville Chuck

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#2 ·
I built a new outfeed table for my table saw last winter with 21 drawers in it and the cost of those slides was prohibitive to me too. Something I've used in the past is strips of counter top laminate on both the carcase and on the bottom of the the drawer runners. These slide fairly easy and last close to forever. If they get sticky you can rub parafin wax on them and they will slide better again. If you fit the carcase supports for the drawers so that the supports are just a bit farther apart than the drawers are tall then you can pull them out quite a ways. And if you need them all the way out then just remove the drawer and get what you need and shove it back in the carcase. Because you aren't lining up slide halves it's pretty easy to do that. That type drawer is the traditional style, the laminate slides is just my twist on it.

You can cut the strips on a table saw if you use a blade with zero or negative hook (miter saw blade e.g.) and zero clearance insert. A hooked blade and regular insert will cause the lam to shatter.
 
Stick486

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DonkeyHody

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#4 ·
I've had good success with the Promark full extension slides from Amazon. They're cheaper in a 10-pack.
 
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JOAT

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#5 ·
Any shop drawers I make will simply pull out, then placed on the bench, to go thru it, then put back in. Don't see any need for slides. Or, could just put a stop on the back of the drawer that will catch on the front of the opening. Personally, I prefer just pulling the entire drawer out. K.I.S.S. at work.
 
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DaninVan

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#8 ·
Brewer; try Richelieu. Do you have any contractor buddies who can buy there wholesale?
https://www.richelieu.com/ca/en/category/?stateProv=ON
Home Depot in Canada carries their stuff as well.
As for the expense, look at it this way, you're only going to do this once and hopefully it'll last you for decades.
Bite the bullet and do it right the first time. Full extension is absolutely the way to go. Sure as Hell the item you want will be at the back!
I finally got all my fasteners organized by type (RH machine screws in one drawer, FH wood screws in a another,etc. )and I just wish I'd done it years ago.
With one hand I can open the drawer, reach in and grab what I need, and close the drawer. Don't even need to put the brewski down... ;)
 
chessnut2

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Cherryville Chuck

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brewermoe said:
Ok, I hope this isn't a silly question but, if my drawers are 24" deep, I need a 24" slide? Is the mounting and other things already considered?
Click to expand...
Yes. The only time you would use some other size is say if your drawers were only 23" long. You would have to use 22" slides as the slides can't be longer than the case is deep.
 
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DaninVan

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#14 ·
Full Extension

brewermoe said:
Ok, I hope this isn't a silly question but, if my drawers are 24" deep, I need a 24" slide? Is the mounting and other things already considered?
Click to expand...
'Moe; here's the Technical .pdf for one type of Acuride slide...
https://www.richelieu.com/documents/docsGr/100/832/9/1008329/1372747.pdf
The 24" model's a tich under 24" in length.
Are you sure you will end up with a clear 24"? Normally, for pragmatic and economic reasons a 4' sheet of stock is ripped lengthwise in 1/2 yielding less than 24" wide gables, then there's losses (maybe) when the back frame elements are installed...I run rebates around the back of my components and set my rear dustpanel inset.
You might be safer with 22" slides(?).
 
Stick486

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w/ a rebated rabbet on 1/2'' stock you can have a drawer 24-3/8'' deep, OS measure...
and a framed box 24-5/8'' deep...
a frameless box at 23-7/8'' deep..
alwats measure the cuts to the center of the blade to share the waste to each piece cut...
 
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Stick486

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#16 ·
w/ a rebated rabbet on 1/2'' stock you can have a drawer 24-3/8'' deep, OS measure...
and a framed box 24-5/8'' deep...
a frameless box at 23-7/8'' deep..
alwats measure the cuts to the center of the blade to share the waste to each piece cut...
 
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DesertRatTom

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#18 ·
I'd go with the 22 inch with full extension. Gives you a deep drawer with a little wiggle room to adjust the drawer's fit in the case, or to fit a false front. In woodworking, I like to leave a little wiggle room.
 
Stick486

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build a frameless cabinet and add ''X'' thickness of edge banding to the cabinet to give you your required depth/wiggle room..
go for the fuzz of over travel...
and some character into it too...
 
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DaninVan
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