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Are you sure you want to cut dovetails? With quarter inch material, I think you will have an easier time cutting box joints. For cutting those, especially in thin material, I suggest you consider the Incra box joint jig on a table saw. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008LD4S5G?tag=duckduckgo-ffsb-20&linkCode=osi&th=1&psc=1

The jig adjusts to whatever size stack of blades you have, although I LOVE the freud Box Cutter Blade set that will cut precise 1/4 or 3/8 th joints. That would be the easiest way to do that. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ASGV1E?tag=duckduckgo-ffsb-20&linkCode=osi&th=1&psc=1\\ Using the same jig and a full kerf blade, you can make 1/8th joints for shallow boxes, such as for neclaces, pearls or bracelets. That would be like the corners of an expensive wood cigar box.

Rockler makes a box joint jig for router tables that might also work for you. https://www.amazon.com/Rockler-Rout...g+for+router+table&qid=1592531376&s=hi&sr=1-2

One other option to consider is using the router with a lock miter bit. These take some careful setup, but they make an invisible joint box. Pix of bit and joint below: Easy to make elegant boxes and with fine hardwood, you could have grain wrap all the way around. Not sure how thin the stock may be, but I think it can go down to 3/8ths thick. The pix is of a 1/4 or metric shank. This is an elegant joint.

The bottom pix shows the bit, joint and a tiny magnetic jig that fits on the bit's cutting surface. You align it to the center of the wood you're cutting and it cuts both sides of the joint perfectly. You need something to hold the thin stock down because you're going to cut the edge. I use a square chunk of MDF behind the workpiece to hold it square to the fence, and to eliminate chipout. You should also mark the inside and outside of every piece so you don't get confused.

with wooden boxes you might like small brass hinges, and a brass latch on the front of the box. Here's a search for all kinds of small latches.

If you make boxes of thick material you can use a barrel (hidden) hinge.

Are you going to line these boxes? Are they for specific jewelry items? Your liner should have a small amount of foam inside so the item can be pinned in place. If it is for high end neclaces, especially pearls, make a raised oval to hold the item in place for best display. You can find a powdery material that you apply glue inside the box, then pour in the material and shake it til fully covered. But silk or some elegant fabric liner is top of the line.

If the boxes are made with lock miter joints, you can use MDF, which comes in a wide variety of thicknesses down to 1/8th inch. But if you use hardwoods, you will be doing some combination of resawing, jointing (which can be done on a router table with split fence), and planing to get exact thicknesses.

This interests me because I sold jewelry to pay my way through college. Hope this wasn't too much. I am not sure of your router has much of a bit selection from Dremmel.

If I were dong this, I'd pop for a Bosch 1617, for which you can find a thousand different bits. Its fixed base mounts nicely under a table, which only needs to be a very flat sheet of plywood with an appropriate size hole in it, and a very straight peice of lumber for the fence. Cut an opening in the fence the bit will fit through. You will probably only get 20-25 years service out of this setup. CPO tools has this router available as a refurbished unit. They are good as or better than new.

Are you making these for sale to a high end store? See if you can find a way to put their logo on the box, and put a line: Hand made in America for name Jewelers. And I'd make a lot at once and standardize sizes and thickness as much as possible. The store can also sell boxes, say with dividers, for pierced ear rings, which is my wife's favorite gold goodie.
 

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