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I made a cabinet to go under my drill press, but wasn't real happy with the way that the drawers turned out. http://www.routerforums.com/show-n-tell/71690-drill-press-cabinet-left-overs.html This finally bothered me to the point that I bought new slides and started making changes. On the original build, I made the newcabinet deeper but used the same slides so that the full-extension slides weren't letting the drawers come all the way out of the cabinet. I'd been thinking about this for a while and finally found a set of slides that I thought would work - this is the second cabinet recently where I've either used slides that I had on hand or made the cabinet before checking on what was available. Anyway, I'm only replacing two of the three drawers, the top drawer will be replaced by shallow trays which I think is going to be handier for storing drill bits and so forth.

My wife gave me a set of the Kreg supports for Christmas and I wound up jury-rigging them so I could install the drawers on the new slides without taking off the drawer fronts. The cabinet parts were spaced up off the floor using a strip of wood, the drawer was spaced up using a 1/4" strip on the floor and then the drawer was "clamped" between the strip on the floor and the Kreg supports - this allowed me to pull out the drawer far enough to put in the front and center screws in the drawer slide parts. Removed the supports and strip, adjusted the drawer in the slides and put the rest of the screws in. Did the same to the top drawer, spacing it up off the top of bottom drawer - the Kreg supports really came in handy. Tomorrow I'll work on the three trays for the upper space.
 

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What do you think about the Kreg jigs? I have seen them, and my sweetie spotted them in the Lee Valley Catalog she was looking through.
 

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What do you think about the Kreg jigs? I have seen them, and my sweetie spotted them in the Lee Valley Catalog she was looking through.
I've been noticing those Kreg jigs at our WP dealer also , and wondered how they help ?
I do quite well with a piece of wood as a spacer and a clamp
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Mike,

I've got a couple of projects in line that will involve a lot of drawers - I'd seen the ads for the Kreg supports and they seemed to be just what I was looking for which is why I got them for Christmas. I guess the way I just used them wasn't exactly how they were supposed to be used, but they certainly worked OK. One of the jobs will be a cabinet with face frame and drawers and they seem to be set up pretty much to do that - I'll know more once I actually use them as designed.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
What do you think about the Kreg jigs? I have seen them, and my sweetie spotted them in the Lee Valley Catalog she was looking through.
Mike,

I started thinking more about your question last night, watched Kreg's video and actually read (rather then skimmed) their instructions https://www.kregtool.com/webres/Files/Drawer-Slide-Jig-Manual.pdf

Without having a cabinet to install drawers to look at, the one thing that seemed to jump out at me was how to install multiple shallow drawers, especially if the drawer was close to or narrower than the width of the support - I've got a cabinet that I'm getting ready to start assembly, no drawers but that doesn't matter, and I'll try a dry run through installing a run of drawers in the cabinet to see how that would work.

If you look at their "Operating Instructions" (above), the method they describe for installing the bottom drawer is how I do mine, with the spacer strip lying on the floor and sticking out of the cabinet. Once the bottom drawer is installed, I use a strip on top of the drawer side to space up the next slide (Maybe it's just me, but I like the slide kind of centered on the drawer). Once the cabinet slide is installed, a second strip that gives the spacing between the drawers is used to locate the drawer, the lower drawer used to support the upper out of the cabinet while the drawer slide is being attached - this is the strip shown in the fourth photo of my posting.

I can see how the jig would work well for cabinets with face frames, and maybe OK for a frameless cabinet where the drawers are spaced further apart than the depth of the support, but I'd have to look a little closer if the drawers were shallower because the slide would maybe interfere with the location of the support for the drawer above it.

Hope that this helps.
 

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Well dam , I wish I knew about this about three months ago

https://youtu.be/kbpw20MDhAc
Likewise...just finished installing an IKEA kitchen with a zillion drawers and pulls.

Had to make up a wood jig for the holes. Without a steel guide of some sort the wood holes eventually enlarge and go out of whack.
 

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I have a set of the Kreg slide/drawer supports - when I replaced all the builder grade drawer slide with full extension slides in my kitchen (we have a lot of drawers) a few years ago, I found the supports cumbersome. I use wooden spacers cut to the right height to set the slides accurately.
 

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Mike,

I started thinking more about your question last night, watched Kreg's video and actually read (rather then skimmed) their instructions https://www.kregtool.com/webres/Files/Drawer-Slide-Jig-Manual.pdf

Without having a cabinet to install drawers to look at, the one thing that seemed to jump out at me was how to install multiple shallow drawers, especially if the drawer was close to or narrower than the width of the support - I've got a cabinet that I'm getting ready to start assembly, no drawers but that doesn't matter, and I'll try a dry run through installing a run of drawers in the cabinet to see how that would work.

If you look at their "Operating Instructions" (above), the method they describe for installing the bottom drawer is how I do mine, with the spacer strip lying on the floor and sticking out of the cabinet. Once the bottom drawer is installed, I use a strip on top of the drawer side to space up the next slide (Maybe it's just me, but I like the slide kind of centered on the drawer). Once the cabinet slide is installed, a second strip that gives the spacing between the drawers is used to locate the drawer, the lower drawer used to support the upper out of the cabinet while the drawer slide is being attached - this is the strip shown in the fourth photo of my posting.

I can see how the jig would work well for cabinets with face frames, and maybe OK for a frameless cabinet where the drawers are spaced further apart than the depth of the support, but I'd have to look a little closer if the drawers were shallower because the slide would maybe interfere with the location of the support for the drawer above it.

Hope that this helps.
Good info.
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well, I got the changes to the cabinet about finished, and it's now pretty much what I was looking for when I started. I had originally made the new cabinet deeper than the old one, but tried to use the slides off the old one - the problem was that the drawers didn't extend far enough and the sliding trays weren't accessible (plus I had to take the drawers out to remove the trays). The first two photos show the problem I had with the short slides, losing access to the drawers under the trays. I bought longer slides to correct this problem. The other change was to replace the upper drawer with (3) shallow (1-1/2" deep) trays, much more suited to storing drill bits and other similar bits and pieces. The original cabinet was built using bits and pieces of leftovers that I had lying around, but I actually had to spend some money this time - the slides, the aluminum angle for the trays and a piece of 1/4" birch plywood for the bottom of the trays (I'd finally used up all the leftovers from the sheet of underlayment plywood from the bathroom remodel).

Now I just have to figure out how to arrange everything neatly and make the dividers for the trays - after I find that little piece of 1/8" Masonite I just know is lying around somewhere. And I wound up with three short slides to use on another project
 

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Gee that's come up nice.
 
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