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Oliver (Prof. Henry)
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After the mess of drilling holes for euro hinges in MDF, I decided I needed to get a handle on dust control for the drill press. I purchased a 2 1/2" Flexform Hose that can be bent and contorted to a variety of positions. That was the easy part.

The hard part was trying to puzzle out the best way to attach it to the drill press. The attached photos show my solution.

I started by gluing two splicers to a 90 degree elbow (photo DPDC_1). Then I made a bracket out of 3/4 ply and aluminum bar to hold the elbow assembly. (photos DPDC_2 and DPDC_3)

The bracket was attached to the underside of my drill press table and the elbow clamped in the bracket (DPDC_4 and DPDC_5).

Photo DPDC_6 shows the final assembly and the final two photos show the result of drilling MDF with a forstner bit without the vacuum and with the vacuum. Since the Flexform hose is attached to the table instead of the drill press column it is always in the correct postion no matter how much I raise or lower the table.
 

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Nice, I have dust collection on everything but my drill press
 

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Oliver, That is a great-looking setup and your photos are perfect! You impress me as someone who could teach Karate via the internet! I am very impressed! Your idea of keeping the pickup "parallel" to the table is very solid! Keep-up the good work and Thanks for Sharing that!
 

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Very nice set up. But if you want to see how well it works, drill a few larger holes with a forstner bit. Something that will produce some bigger chips.

I put DC on my drill press some time ago. But mine is attached to the back side of the fence. All I have to do is push/sweep the dust and chips to the cut out in the fence, and away it does. But sometimes the larger chips from forstner bits get caught up in the 2½" hose.
 

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Very good setup Oliver.
Could I trouble you for a few extra photos of the table you've made for the drill press, please....some dimensions too if possible, thank you.
Cheers, crowie
 

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Oliver (Prof. Henry)
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Very good setup Oliver.
Could I trouble you for a few extra photos of the table you've made for the drill press, please....some dimensions too if possible, thank you.
Cheers, crowie
It's really a very simple and basic table. Dimensions are 16" deep x 24" wide and constructed out of MDF. The attached file has more detailed photos. The original table on the drill press is 11" x 11" cast iron. The new table is attached with two screws to an 11" x 12 1/2" sub-base made from 3/4 ply that is bolted to the original table.

After owning my drill press for over 30 years I realized I didn't use it enough because trying to balance and drill on the original tiny table was too annoying. Now that I have built the table, I use my drill press constantly and confidently. It made drilling the holes for euro hinges in eight cabinet doors a piece of cake. Now I no longer have to futz with the Rockler jig I bought.

Check out the attached file and let me know if you have any other questions.
 

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Oliver (Prof. Henry)
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So are the pipes below and above the table or do you alternate them?
I just attach the hose from my shop vac to the 90 degree elbow under the table. The hose goes to a Dust Deputy saw dust collector which is, in turn, attached to my shop vac. The FlexForm hose is attached above the table and can easily be used or moved out of the way as needed.
 

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It's really a very simple and basic table. Dimensions are 16" deep x 24" wide and constructed out of MDF. The attached file has more detailed photos. The original table on the drill press is 11" x 11" cast iron. The new table is attached with two screws to an 11" x 12 1/2" sub-base made from 3/4 ply that is bolted to the original table.

After owning my drill press for over 30 years I realized I didn't use it enough because trying to balance and drill on the original tiny table was too annoying. Now that I have built the table, I use my drill press constantly and confidently. It made drilling the holes for euro hinges in eight cabinet doors a piece of cake. Now I no longer have to futz with the Rockler jig I bought.

Check out the attached file and let me know if you have any other questions.
Thank you very much for the additional info Oliver.
Much appreciated.
Cheers, crowie
 

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After the mess of drilling holes for euro hinges in MDF, I decided I needed to get a handle on dust control for the drill press. I purchased a 2 1/2" Flexform Hose that can be bent and contorted to a variety of positions. That was the easy part.

The hard part was trying to puzzle out the best way to attach it to the drill press. The attached photos show my solution.

I started by gluing two splicers to a 90 degree elbow (photo DPDC_1). Then I made a bracket out of 3/4 ply and aluminum bar to hold the elbow assembly. (photos DPDC_2 and DPDC_3)

The bracket was attached to the underside of my drill press table and the elbow clamped in the bracket (DPDC_4 and DPDC_5).

Photo DPDC_6 shows the final assembly and the final two photos show the result of drilling MDF with a forstner bit without the vacuum and with the vacuum. Since the Flexform hose is attached to the table instead of the drill press column it is always in the correct postion no matter how much I raise or lower the table.
Thanks very much for sharing. I like everything about your design but have two questions: Where did you get the fence clamps you show, and two (which may be answered by the details of the first), how do you remove the fence when it's not needed?
 

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Oliver (Prof. Henry)
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks very much for sharing. I like everything about your design but have two questions: Where did you get the fence clamps you show, and two (which may be answered by the details of the first), how do you remove the fence when it's not needed?
The fence clamps are Rockler cam clamps attached to 1/4" hex head bolts. I originally had some star knobs to tighten down the fence but upgraded to the cam clamps because they are a little faster to use and I'm lazy.

To remove the fence I just unscrew the clamps completely and lift the fence off the bolts. After that I can slide the bolts out the back end of the T-track.

The attached photo give you a better view of the rear of the fence.
 

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I like it, Oliver!
 

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Thanks for the clarification. I agree the fence clamps are a better way to go, and I will do the same. Unscrewing them completely to remove the fence is a minor inconvenience because I don't see the frequent need for removal.
 

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Hi, Oliver and Chris.

Both solutions are very simple and useful.

Thanks to both of you for sharing with us!!!
 

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I have a Shop Vac and attach the hose near the dust source with a small bungee cord. I do this on my DP, lathe, chop saw, etc. Even keep it off to the side of the work bench for a quick cleaning while sanding.
 
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