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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
In an effort to hide the connection, I thought it be cool (first mistake, being cheeky) to drill from the bottom of a 4 inch thick stock. I used a 12 inch 3/16th bit with a power drill and an adjustable drilling jig. (my drill press doenst have the "reach")the bit came out of the top about an 1/8 off the mark on one hole and about 1/16 for the other.

Can think of a couple of reasons it did this. First, the bit being that long and that thin flexed under pressure and "walked" as it cut thru. Then the drilling guide may not have been dirlectly over the hole, and the above mentioned off target hole may have simply spotted wrong from the get go.

I did start a deep pilot hole with a jig then switched to the long bit.

Is there a better, easier way to drill holes with out a drill press thru thick stock and have it come out where you want it too?

TIA
dan
 

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Dan,

If you came out that close over the course of 12", I really don't think you can ask for much more under the circumstances. Even a drill press would not have gotten you any closer. Just too many factors involved to do any better. About the only thing you could have done different would have been to drill from the top down and let the varance be hidden down below. I think you did pretty darn good myself.
 

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I have a bunch of what I call drill blocks, I keep a set in the trailer and one in the shop. I use 3/4" plywood and set each bit in the drill press and make one plunge into the block starting at the outside of the block and work my way around the perimeter eventually ending in the center where the largest bit hole is. The 2nd block, gluing 2 blocks together, as the bit diameter grows so does the length of the bit the highest block is 3 lams at 2 1/4". I have blocks covering from 1/16" to a 1/2" in 32nd and 64th increments.

Quite often when perfect 90° holes are required in material too large for the press I use the blocks. Make the block long enough to clamp when necessary.
 

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Other factors that might come into play are the speed of the drill (rotation speed), the speed of the feed, and the type of bit being used. Slower speeds would likely result in less wander, allowing the bit to cut better, and a brad-point style bit might track more accurately.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Bob, the piece was only 4 inches deep/thick..... For me that was really good, but not good enough for the project.

thinking maybe to plug the the last inch of the hole (can hide the mend...), redrill down to the almost to the plug with a bigger bit, and redril the last inch with the smaller bit. Taht doesnt work, I'll plug the whole thing and redrill from the top..... not as elegant....but thats what prototypes are for, right? :eek:

Ralph, since I was drilling with my powerdrill, and hand feeding thru the jig, I bet your right about feed rates. I had to put s afiar amount of pressure to get it to drill,,,,,,

Ghidrah.. thats brilliant! I can see many applications for those.....

thanx guys
 

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HI Dan

It may be time to tune up your drill press :)

Put a square on the table top, and hold it to the side of the chuck it should be dead on, if not look under the top for a bolt/nut adjust the table so it's dead on with the chuck now move the square 90 deg. and do the same thing, if it's true your done it not find a business card and use it for a shim,you will need move the bolt or nut to get it in behind the mount, put one in, then check it one more time,if you are dead on move the top so it's square on the other side of the chuck.. it takes a bit of time to get it done but it's worth it in the long run..


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In an effort to hide the connection, I thought it be cool (first mistake, being cheeky) to drill from the bottom of a 4 inch thick stock. I used a 12 inch 3/16th bit with a power drill and an adjustable drilling jig. (my drill press doenst have the "reach")the bit came out of the top about an 1/8 off the mark on one hole and about 1/16 for the other.

Can think of a couple of reasons it did this. First, the bit being that long and that thin flexed under pressure and "walked" as it cut thru. Then the drilling guide may not have been dirlectly over the hole, and the above mentioned off target hole may have simply spotted wrong from the get go.

I did start a deep pilot hole with a jig then switched to the long bit.

Is there a better, easier way to drill holes with out a drill press thru thick stock and have it come out where you want it too?

TIA
dan
 

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Bob, the piece was only 4 inches deep/thick..... For me that was really good, but not good enough for the project.

thinking maybe to plug the the last inch of the hole (can hide the mend...), redrill down to the almost to the plug with a bigger bit, and redril the last inch with the smaller bit. Taht doesnt work, I'll plug the whole thing and redrill from the top..... not as elegant....but thats what prototypes are for, right? :eek:

Ralph, since I was drilling with my powerdrill, and hand feeding thru the jig, I bet your right about feed rates. I had to put s afiar amount of pressure to get it to drill,,,,,,

Ghidrah.. thats brilliant! I can see many applications for those.....

thanx guys
Sorry about that! I mis-read and was thinking 12" deep :(
 

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I'm not sure what I'm missing here but what's wrong with drilling from both ends.
 

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HI Harry

I think that's something like burning the candle from both ends :)

It takes the fun out of it... :)


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I'm not sure what I'm missing here but what's wrong with drilling from both ends.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'm not sure what I'm missing here but what's wrong with drilling from both ends.
Me? I'd never get them to line up...... so its all in one shot for me.

Maybe after another decade or two of experience.....:)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
HI Dan

It may be time to tune up your drill press :)
Ive squared it when I first got it..... dont think I made it clear that the drill press isnt big enough to drill something that deep/big.

I need a bigger bandsaw, a bigger drill press, a plunge router.....

When I bought the drill press it was drilling parts for gunsmithing.... then I starting stock making, and nothing I have is big enough or has enough power... eh who knew...
 

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If all the parts you're drilling are the same size, you should make a template and drill from both ends. Being a machinist and doing lots of drilling, has taught me that drills seldom drill staight. Double ending is a pretty good option imost of the time. You might also consider a drilling guide and doweling the parts for alignment then using a different drill for thru holes.
 

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The bit is creeping through the material, length and diameter of bit, density and grain pattern of the material, table could be off a smidge, and lastly the drill assembly might have some slop in it.

As for drilling from both ends the wider the stock the greater the error.

My point about the drill blocks in this case is no stroke limit, (my press is 3"). If the error is bit wobble, table or press slop the blocks will eliminate it. Glue up a 6" high block for a 12" long bit. Clamp it to the work piece, stand above it and just bottom out the bit. Remove the block and complete the hole.

If the error is because the material isn't square and parallel then the blocks won't help either
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The bit is creeping through the material, length and diameter of bit, density and grain pattern of the material, table could be off a smidge, and lastly the drill assembly might have some slop in it.
Ghidrah has very succintly listed probably every thing that was wrong with the drilling.... except one... me. :rolleyes:

I like the blocks idea. Since, I assume, this will be the first of many, I'll work on some scrap to get it down.

You guys are great!
 

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The more I think about this post the more I wonder why in the world a 12" drill is being used when the wood is only 4" thick, a drill closer to 4" would I'm sure, go straight through dead centre.

Here is a shot of what I have in mind, this one happens to be a 1/4" but 3/16" should also be available in the extra long series.
 

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HI Harry

It's no big deal but they do make a 3/16" x 6" drill bit, I have one,it's for the EZ SET Marker jig, by March S.of sommerfeld tools,it's used to drill the holes for the handles for the cabinet doors,etc.

I also have 1/8" x 6",9" ,12" for the Incra hinge jig,, they are called aircraft drill bits, they can be had at SEARS for just one place...also at just about any aircraft supply outlets...they are all high end drill bits,,,

http://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/6913-wooden-hinges.html

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The more I think about this post the more I wonder why in the world a 12" drill is being used when the wood is only 4" thick, a drill closer to 4" would I'm sure, go straight through dead centre.

Here is a shot of what I have in mind, this one happens to be a 1/4" but 3/16" should also be available in the extra long series.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Harry...
it was 10 pm, I dont have a 6" 3/16 bit (yet...) and did have the 12 inch....

Until I read your post about why not use the 6" bit.... um, er, I never thought of it.

Another reason why this forum is quickly becoming my fav.....
 

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Discussion Starter #18
You might also consider a drilling guide and doweling the parts for alignment then using a different drill for thru holes.

yea, that. Now, in retrospect, I can see a combination of Tim's guide and Ghidrah's drill blocks being the answer. It also opccurs to me, if I had started the hole from the top, where it can be seen, and drilled DOWN, the off-target result could have easily been camoflauged.

the reason I drilled from bottom up was I had a nice flat square surface to clamp down to the bench. Drilling from the top doesnt, but again, had I though it thru the effort necessary to get it clamped down would have been minimal.
 

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Harry...
it was 10 pm, I dont have a 6" 3/16 bit (yet...) and did have the 12 inch....

Until I read your post about why not use the 6" bit.... um, er, I never thought of it.

Another reason why this forum is quickly becoming my fav.....

Ah, at last I'll be able to sleep nights, I thought there had to be a reason for the 12" drill.
 

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HI Harry

When I was a kid we called them spot light drill bits,,used to drill the hole to put the long shaft of the spot light in the door or in the corner post of the car or truck and in the roof :) then we got smart and started to buy fake spot lights, most didn't use them, just for looks most of the time,,,COOL things we did back when...but that was when the cars had steel doors and frames :) LOL,, a pair of 44's on your car :)

The " Appleton " was the cool one and every one wanted it :) at 40.oo bucks each if I recall :)


http://www.classicaccessories.org/list003101.html


This should help you sleep now LOL LOL


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Ah, at last I'll be able to sleep nights, I thought there had to be a reason for the 12" drill.
 

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