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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I currently have a woodpecker aluminum plate that is drilled for a Dewalt 618. I recently acquired a Triton 3-1/4 hp router and am looking to reuse this same plate and just drill for the new router. I am wondering if anyone has any recommendations for lining this router up so it is centered perfectly on the old plate. I was thinking of putting a router bushing in my current plate set for 1/2 or 1/4 inside diameter and then put either a 1/2 or 1/4 spiral bit in the triton and set on top.

I appreciate any help.
 

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Have the Triton with Woodpecker plate. Got the plate pre drilled for the Triton base, but without a hole for the height adjustment crank. So I laid the Triton base on the plate and marked the hole location for the crank. Drilled with a half inch bit in the drill press. Used a rat tail file to smooth the edges of the drilled hole so it didn't wear on the crank's shaft. Be careful how you set it up so that the locking mechanism and switch are easily reached under your table. Before you drill anything, check to see if the pre drilled holes in your plate fit the router. Mine did. Several others here have posted on this combo and some had to install the plate upside down, with the logo toward the top instead of the bottom. The Woodpecker plate is nice and heavy, extra thick for the heavy Triton. Don't see the need for a centering cone when used on the table. The fence controls the workpiece orientation to the bit.
 

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I currently have a woodpecker aluminum plate that is drilled for a Dewalt 618. I recently acquired a Triton 3-1/4 hp router and am looking to reuse this same plate and just drill for the new router. I am wondering if anyone has any recommendations for lining this router up so it is centered perfectly on the old plate. I was thinking of putting a router bushing in my current plate set for 1/2 or 1/4 inside diameter and then put either a 1/2 or 1/4 spiral bit in the triton and set on top.

I appreciate any help.
That's how I would do it. It is extremely hard to get all the holes dead on but if you drill then very slightly oversize as close as you can and then counter sink the plate and switch to round head screws then align the router to the bushing again before you tighten the screws down and you will have dead center for bushing use.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I did the way I was thinking but used the Bosch router centering jig shown above to align everything minus the cone portion. I had a few choice words for myself when I forgot to unscrew the plate I was using for my template from the router and also when I lined up things were I thought was best but then realized my holes were almost all lining up with the threaded holes for the starter pins. In the end I got the holes drilled correctly it seams. I needed longer bolts though so I will find out after our weekly fire drill tonight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Stopped at HD this morning before work and found 2 different types of screws to try. I really wanted to use cap socket screws but they don't carry any in standard but do in Metric. I may have to stop at Menards on way home if they don't fit like I want.
 

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Stopped at HD this morning before work and found 2 different types of screws to try. I really wanted to use cap socket screws but they don't carry any in standard but do in Metric. I may have to stop at Menards on way home if they don't fit like I want.
hardware drawers at Lowes and at Ace hardware...
don't install the router w/ the plastic plate on it..
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Usually hit the local ace but it will be closed by the time I’m free today. May have to wait till Friday to hit ace. Wasn’t planning on using the black plastic plate that was on the bottom. I’m doing aluminum mounting to aluminum.


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