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Discussion Starter #1
The first picture shows the front view of the cabinet.
The second picture with door open and top shelf slides out to make it easier access contents .
The third picture shows the contents of second shelf.
The fourth picture shows the door construct simple piece of 1/2 inch plywood pocket holed into a 3/4 pine frame.
The fifth picture is fake panel door with molding trim.
The sixth picture shows side panel made same as door everything is attached to 2 x 2 frames that support top and 2 shelf's t nuts are on the inside of frames to hold it together and easier to assemble.
 

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Most excellent, Gary!
One thing I noted, and you might want to reconsider:
The casters are fairly close to the vertical axis of the DP. There's a lot of mass up high...ie the centre of gravity.
Moving the wheels to a point as far away from that as possible (outwards) gives you a much more stable base (safety).
Because they're casters, if the DP starts to tip sideways you won't be able to stop it...the wheels will just accelerate the toppling effect.
Mind you, having the cabinet loaded with weight inside it certainly helps bring the C. of G. down, making the assembly more stable....still(?).
Another way to 'kill the cat' might be to rotate the DP 90 deg., and centre it over the length. The only downside to that would be that the cabinet door would be on the side rather than the front. The good news is that you'd have a much wider base and you'd be able to stand closer to the DP table for accurate measuring etc., should you need to.
I know all of the above because my machinist buddy pointed this out to me regarding my mobile base... *oops*
 

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I noticed that too. Good job on the cabinet. I have never used pocket holes like that before, learned something today.
on the casters, you could also take a 3/4' thick piece of plywood and cut it so it is a couple of inches wider than your cabinet,but the same width front to back and mount the casters as close to the corners as possible. Then set your cabinet on these, it will greatly increase the stability. Just a suggestion.

Herb
 

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Yup...wheels are a bit close to center...good thing is you will be using it on the long side...but be careful of putting in long pieces to drill.

...and don't make any sharp turns... :)
 

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Nice looking cabinet, Gary. I might copy it...my drill press is still sitting on my Workmate, which effectively removes the Workmate from my tool inventory.
 

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Great investment Gary . I want to build one myself someday . Would be great having drill bits right there when I need them
 

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I noticed that too. Good job on the cabinet. I have never used pocket holes like that before, learned something today.
on the casters, you could also take a 3/4' thick piece of plywood and cut it so it is a couple of inches wider than your cabinet,but the same width front to back and mount the casters as close to the corners as possible. Then set your cabinet on these, it will greatly increase the stability. Just a suggestion.

Herb
I agree. That could topple very easy and you would be sick.
 

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Most excellent Gary...
gotta agree on the caster placement..
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I agree I built it for space. I got tired of moving around my shop for whatever available flat space it weights 80 or 90 pounds . Didn't use it much to hard to move now moves easy . I want to get a tool box that will fit on top shelf common used tools and drill bits. I will have to work on better wheel setup.
 

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gusset plate the bottom frame's joints w/ ¾'' ply glued and screwed into place for the casters or plate the enter bottom side to add a boat load of strength to the cabinet...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Stick I think your idea of 3/4 ply screwed and glued to the bottom of cabinet is the right answer. I think I have a piece big enough in my pile of odds and ends.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Stick your idea is the right answer 3/4 ply remount caster and glue and screw to the bottom of the cabinet. I think I have enough plywood in the odds and ends.
 

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Gary, as Stick suggested, you only really need to do the left and right sides of the base's bottom...say 4" wide strips.
 

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Gary, as Stick suggested, you only really need to do the left and right sides of the base's bottom...say 4" wide strips.
Id go w/ 6''...
 
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I joined my base frame using loose tenons then added ply to the corners, glued and screwed, for castor mounting. Two screws into each piece and another 4 screws through the castor, ply and into the frame.
 

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I joined my base frame using loose tenons then added ply to the corners, glued and screwed, for castor mounting. Two screws into each piece and another 4 screws through the castor, ply and into the frame.
would through bolting the cstors be a better plan???
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
There t bolted now I'll do the same again in case I need to replace. I'll probably use 2 6 inch piece across front and back. I just have to unbolt and reattach to the 2 pieces. Easy piezy.
Thanks everyone for your constructive criticism.
 

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the idea of the wider strip was for joint reinforcement...
 

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Nce looking project. I have a DP and BS on a homemade crappy table made from a piece of countertop and 2X4s. I might see about building something like yours to hold both of them or as separate units. Thanks to the ones pointing out the COG issue. Do any of the casters lock?
 

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would through bolting the cstors be a better plan???
The coach screws I used are 40mm and a very deep thread.



Should be strong enough as I don't see moving the cabinet too often.
 
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